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Old 07-12-2014, 03:25 AM   #41
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I would rather have the factory do the replacement. If they are going to to pick it up then bring it back, why not. I do not trust dealers myself.
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Old 07-12-2014, 09:24 AM   #42
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If it was me I would have them pick it up and take it because they need to repair the under belly where the axles has probably hit it mine has cuts where the axle has bottom out and cut it. I haven't even hauled my MC yet and it was bottoming out so I would commit to them picking it up and then bring up the underbelly.


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Old 07-12-2014, 09:57 AM   #43
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If they are willing to pick it up and delivery, I wouldn't let any dealer touch it. The factory does it all the time and the dealer might have done it a few times and they probably don't have a tech still on board that did the few they might have done.

They are offering you a premium fix and it sounds like you are wanting a shade tree mechanic fix so you can watch. JMO
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Old 07-12-2014, 10:23 AM   #44
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Ok so finally got a response from warranty department. After several emails back and fourth, Forest River has agreed to replace my axles. However they want to do it at the service center at the factory. I refused to take the day off work and make the 130 mile trek there so they offered to come and get it and bring it back with none week.
I asked for the repair to be done at a Forest River local dealer ( not the one I bought it from ), and they refused this option. They actually told me the trailer is supposed to be repaired at the dealer I purchased it from per the warranty agreement. So I have a decision to make but I really don't want to do it because my XLR is my baby. I pamper this thing beyond what I should. I appreciate any thoughts or recommendations.
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No way would I let them pick it up and bring it back.
If this trailer is "your baby" I would thing taking the two days off would be
a done deal.
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Old 07-12-2014, 01:10 PM   #45
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My thought behind having a local dealer fix it is I can look at the repairs myself and confirm that I am happy with them prior to taking it back.

Also the factory can do shady things to just get by like putting a lower grade axle or not doing an alignment after the work is completed. A third-party dealer will not stick their neck out for a factory. I'm not looking for some average local garage to do the work. I wanted to take it to camping world which is 3 miles from my house. Just my thoughts
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Old 07-12-2014, 01:16 PM   #46
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It sort of sounds like you are leaning towards a particular direction but I would vote for having it done at the factory where they have all the tools, equipment and anything else needed.
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Old 07-12-2014, 01:29 PM   #47
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STLfan, Camping World's are not known for their quality service work. IMO, you are set on having it done locally, but as Terier says, the factory has the expertise, tools, etc to fix the problem. In the end, it's your trailer, your decision, but you ask for advice and then choose to reject it.

I really hope it is done to your satisfaction, but with CW, I sure wouldn't hold my breathe. JMO.

If the factory does it, you followed their recommendation and will have a comeback, if CW messes it up, the factory will probably tell you to live with it.
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Old 07-13-2014, 10:47 PM   #48
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Old Coot

I certainly appreciate the advice from you and the other posters. I'm not rejecting any of the advice only stating the reasons why I was leaning toward camping world.

After hearing many of you voice your opinion I think it may be best for me to let it go back to the factory. I am a very picky person so I will certainly be documenting every thing and taking photos so that I'm not burned when it's brought back broke.

Anyway thanks to you all again for giving me your opinions. That's why I wanted to expand on this topic and see what everyone else had to say.
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Old 07-14-2014, 12:42 PM   #49
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Your correct you need to do what makes you happy but word of advice if you did not purchase from CW or local dealer you will be worked on when they run out of work unless you purchased it from them plus when I had work done that was a safety issue I was told buy two dealers that I should have thought about getting it serviced when I made my purchase and I could just take it back to where I bought it and get it repaired.
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Old 08-20-2014, 03:04 PM   #50
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I have received a recall on my 2015 29hfs that wants me to replace my sticker on the weigh rating and cargo capacity which will cause me to loose 1300 + pounds of cargo. I purchased this unit based on what the ratings on the flyer and spec sheet that Forest River published. The recall had a number to call if I had any questions and I have been calling it for the last three working days with no response when leaving a voicemail. I will give them a couple of more days to reply before contacting the BBB and my Attorney. Has anyone else received the recall and if so have you had any luck contacting Forest River???
I am seriously considering a 2015 29HFS purchase. So my question becomes: "Have they recalled units presently sitting at the dealers and changed the axles?" I doubt that!!!!! Or have they changed the stickers on the units sitting at the dealers which would require me to specifically ask about the axles? Since Im not purchasing one until probably May/June of 2015 (Hoping to get a 2015 leftover) should I just opt for a 2016 29HFS and pray that the axle CC issue has been resolved and also maybe hope for a better valve setup as some complained about? Decisions Decisons. Also I have a 5.7L Tundra with tow pkg truck is classified as a 1/2 ton but has 3/4 ton specs as far as load capacity and towing capacity is at 10,100lbs. I will be hauling (2) 850lb motorcycles. Am I crazy? or should I be ok with a good WDH with sway control? The 29HFS with the 2 bikes puts me at 8668lbs leaving me with an additional 1432lbs for other items and still being within my trucks listed limits. Opinions are welcome. Ive never owned a camper but I've pulled trailers etc. Looking for feedback from experienced RV'ers
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Old 08-20-2014, 03:15 PM   #51
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wvmtn, I believe new units will have the 4400 lb axles based on the fact the website specs have changed to that. If that is the case, you may not have the capacity to carry 2 full size motorcycles, water, batteries, food, clothes, etc. You will need to be very careful loading.

Also, your truck would be a concern of mine as well. I have a 29hfs, I feel it is to much for a 1/2 ton truck. The numbers look good, but the experience will not be as pleasant. A 3/4 or better truck just has more weight so it isn't pushed around as easy, and has more braking and cooling reserve as well usually.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:35 PM   #52
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wvmtn, x2 what Scooter86 expressed. The new brochure does show the lower rating (1300# lower). I wonder if with the Extreme Pkg (this is the cold weather package, which I recommend, by the way!!) would you get the 5200# axles and the higher capacity?? You need to know for sure... get it in WRITING! Maybe you can specify the heavier axles from the factory... dunno. I tried towing a 7000# TH and I hated to pull it. I had to constantly be involved in gear choices, etc. It didn't have enough torque or enough brake. Enter the XLR... the 29HFS with a GVWR of nearly 11,000#. Just my opinion, but no 1/2 truck can do it comfortably. I wouldn't do it. Either go big with the TV or smaller on the TH. The thing is we keep getting bigger units and hauling more stuff, a little reserve capacity is smart.
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:29 AM   #53
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I'm pulling a Passport 3050BH now with my EcoBoost F150. Plenty of power for towing. I hate my hitch, but that is another story. It is 33'. I'm looking at the 29hfs. Weight looks to be fine, way under the 11.3k of my TV. The heavier axles would be nice, but i'm going to put my RZR in the back, so at 900lbs, the total capacity shouldn't be an issue. If you are putting two bikes back there, I would suggest finding some weight to put up front. Tongue weight is the key, imho. My only concern is the rear entry height, not sure my toy will fit without a ramp extension.. Which is a problem.
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:46 AM   #54
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I have a F250 with a V10 and it pulls fine but I wouldn't want to do it with a F150 I feel like it just isn't enough truck weight wise. If you live in a flat area and that is where most of your towing has been done you may gamble it but I definitely wouldn't do it without a WD hitch and I would recommend the Blue Ox. As far as the axles if you purchase it with the sticker stating the 4400# axle rating with the reduce weight that can deny changing it out but I would still try. There is a recall to add the taller equalizer which you should do because the axles will bottom out if you hit a dip and you have a load. If you wanted to try to push for the larger axles I would just let them know you have a brochure that states that they come with the 5200# axles.
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Old 08-21-2014, 10:56 AM   #55
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A couple quick notes, I have a Blue Ox, love it. Set up just like my 5k 30' tt and it was a white knuckle drive home in a bit of a storm. After the weather cleared and I adjusted it, tows great now. I highly recommend that hitch set up. I tow with a 2500 ram and Cummins currently.

Also, my axles were hitting the frame completely empty. FR stepped up though. The new equalizers did the trick. Now just waiting to put the new axles on.
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Old 08-21-2014, 12:57 PM   #56
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Mjost, the Ecoboost 150 is the exception to the norm. With the right gear and configuration; max tow and max payload, it will carry more on its rear axles than my Ram 2500. I picked the Ram over the Eco due to the lower price... 800 lb/ft TQ was singing a nice tune, as well.
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Old 08-21-2014, 01:01 PM   #57
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I use the Reese dual-cam... once i learned how to adjust it , its fine. It has the 1400# bars.
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:18 PM   #58
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I hate my Dual Cam right now... tired of fighting it.. Just cant seem to get enough tongue weight with my current TT...
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:28 PM   #59
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I would think the 2016 models would have fixed the 2015 problem that caused the recall. It would be a huge liability if they had a recall in a prior year and knowingly used the same faulty parts in subsequent applications.
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Old 08-21-2014, 09:40 PM   #60
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Reese or Draw-tite dual-cam

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjost View Post
I hate my Dual Cam right now... tired of fighting it.. Just cant seem to get enough tongue weight with my current TT...
I hated it... it came with my last trailer and I couldn't get it right on that unit... I wasn't having any better luck on the 29HFS and nearly bought a used Hensley. I am stubborn about this kind of thing, because so many people swear by it, rather than like me, AT it. I have 1400# bars. I don't crank the tongue jack too high before setting the WD load bars. I think you can overdo it. I have 4 links hanging. So, the WD isn't really shifting much weight. After sitting the trailer on, first the back drops about 2 to 2-1/2-inches, when I tighten the bars, the rear (at fender opening top center) are about 1 inch lower than before adding the trailer and the front is up about 1/2 inch... by the way, the truck isn't loaded much.. two people (one is a bit over weight), a full tank of diesel and maybe two bicycles is all we load. Sometimes a small cooler.

What was happening to me was the saddles (the curves in the WD bars) were not adjusted so they seated at true center of the arch, when driving straight... this made the truck hunt left and right, like the road was very rutted, when is wasn't... as one bar would reach its "happy point", it would pull the truck one way... then the other bar tries to show whose boss it pulls the other way, to its "happy point", pulling the truck the other way. This is not fun to drive like this... and plenty good reason to hate something!!

So, I went to a large parking lot. With the bike and most stuff loaded. With the bars like I said, I backed off completely on the nuts on the cam bar... began driving slowly forward while turning slightly left then slightly right then back left until it was as straight as I could guess. Then I tightened the nuts... first the one without the lock nut, pretty much by hand, then the nut with the washer with a large crescent wrench. It is now nearly perfect, almost no perceivable sway unless you hit a major cross wind. This has happened a couple of times and even this is manageable; trucks passing or being passed do not move it around. I went 3000 miles and didn't need to adjust again. I went off last week and it is still rock solid. Of course, there are other adjustments, which affect how it works. The front of the trailer is slightly lower than the back; bars are parallel to the frame when tightened up; and the head of the hitch is tilted slightly back.

So, no more cussing the hitch... it works as designed... FINALLY!
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