My buddy and I loaded up his Ultra Classic last night. This is how we tied it down. We'd like to secure the back a little better and thought about taking a strap from one D ring through the wheel & to the other D ring. Mainly to keep it from sliding forward in the event of a sudden braking event. We have the frame pulled down onto a block of wood to keep the back end from wanting to slide out.
Any other suggestions or ideas?
Thanks.
__________________ Jim & Evelyn
-2015 Ford F-350 XLT Dually
-2016 Prime Time Spartan 1242X
-2012 Harley Davidson Street Glide (his)
-2004 Harley Davidson Fatboy (hers)
Thanks Steve. Yeah, hidden is the same wheel chock. Its there, just hidden by the box of cardboard for fire strarter.
Being a bagger, makes it a little tough to get good tie down spots.
__________________ Jim & Evelyn
-2015 Ford F-350 XLT Dually
-2016 Prime Time Spartan 1242X
-2012 Harley Davidson Street Glide (his)
-2004 Harley Davidson Fatboy (hers)
When I trailered my bike, I made sure I compressed the front suspension pretty far. My boss did not do this once and he hit a pretty good bump and one of the straps came loose and damaged his bike. Of course this is just my opinion and how I did it.
When I trailered my bike, I made sure I compressed the front suspension pretty far. My boss did not do this once and he hit a pretty good bump and one of the straps came loose and damaged his bike. Of course this is just my opinion and how I did it.
over compressing the suspension on the bike is not good . there are easy ways to hook straps so they don't come off , zip ties, bungee cords , straps with hook locks , etc . The biggest problem is having the rear of the bike slide out . simple fix with a couple 2x4 about 12" long on each side of the rear wheel
When I towed my bikes in a bike trailer ( not toy hauler) I added an inexpensive camera inside the trailer so I could keep tabs on it while driving. If I hit a large bump or sharp turn, I could tell if bike moved and needed to be re-secured. Beats regular stops to check on it.
What we found works best for our heavier bikes is to fasten to the bike low and pull it into the chock. I use 4 good quality straps - one at each corner. In the back, I go almost vertical down - you are just trying to keep the bike from "hopping".
One thing that made a big difference for us was having a mounting plate added for the condor chocks we use. It gives you a point of resistence to pull against on the front of the bike.
In the early days, I was pulling down on the top of the fork. It is very easy to blow a fork seal that way! I did both sides in one trip!
__________________
Jim & Nicky
2012 Forest River XLR 29 MBV
2010 Dodge 2500 Cummings
Honda ST1100
BMW R1100R
Dennis Kirk has a series of videos that shows what I consider the best way. Most people overdo it. I use a Condor and don't have it fastened to the floor. Straps near the floor do little. I dont use ratchet straps, nor do I compress the forks more tgan half way. I do secure the hooks so they won't slip off.
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
I just wanted to add my experience in hauling a 750 lb bike about 8,000 miles in a toy hauler.
You will eventually hit a bump big enough to partially or totally dislodge the bike no matter how tight you crank the straps. Of course, tightening the straps that tight isn't good for the bike either! After the first time my bike came partially loose, I started using these screw on clamps and never had a problem again. In fact, I didn't have to over-tighten the tie downs either. I thread this clamp through the round steel ring of the strap (see arrow) and through the floor tie-down loop. Walla -- a strap can no longer come off the tie-down loop.
__________________
F-350 Dually
Cedar Creek Silverback
Mazda Miata TOAD for sex appeal
I just wanted to add my experience in hauling a 750 lb bike about 8,000 miles in a toy hauler.
You will eventually hit a bump big enough to partially or totally dislodge the bike no matter how tight you crank the straps. Of course, tightening the straps that tight isn't good for the bike either! After the first time my bike came partially loose, I started using these screw on clamps and never had a problem again. In fact, I didn't have to over-tighten the tie downs either. I thread this clamp through the round steel ring of the strap (see arrow) and through the floor tie-down loop. Walla -- a strap can no longer come off the tie-down loop.
Excellent idea and tip Danno.
I run my straps very loose (compared to some), but know the hooks, without some kind of assistance will unhook on a big enough bump. I have used my method for many years on every bike I have hauled for many years; from small to large without incident, in probably a dozens trailers or trucks. All the straps are designed to do it to keep the bike vertical; the bike's suspension if allowed to move, keeps her planted and keeps tires from leaving the "ground"; if she does bottom out, it handles it just like when you are riding; no harm no foul.
To keep hooks from coming off, I rely on using the bitter end (the excess) of the straps to prevent hooks from coming off, but I am going to look into using these "quick links" or "removable links" on my straps.
On my latest setup I hit a big enough whoopdee to cause the axle to hit the frame (whole other story), so I know it works. However, until I ran a strap side to side and around the tire THREE (3) times, the back tire moved sideways; sometimes none at all, but one time a lot; which made getting her out of the Condor a royal PITA. Thats one strap, three times around the tire.
I know the side to side strap should not be pulling back on the bike, but it does a little; to pull it forward I would need to add 2 more tie points, which I probably won't do.
Thanks for the tip.
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
Thanks Steve. Yeah, hidden is the same wheel chock. Its there, just hidden by the box of cardboard for fire strarter.
Being a bagger, makes it a little tough to get good tie down spots.
Harley sells chrome tie down braces that go on the front forks. You have to be careful putting the straps on the handle bars or light bar. They can be damaged if you hit some big bumps. Bolt-it-On makes a great product for securing the front tire. For the back, take a couple of ratchet straps and loop them around the wheel and tie off on the floor tie downs. Works great and the bike won't move. Seriously look into the front braces. They could saw you from pulling you're handle bars down.
Before the a Biker Bars, to keep the rear from bouncing and moving side to side, I use a strip of Etrack. The two cleats and short bungee wrapped around the wheel keeps it from going anywhere. Cleats and bungee not shown in this pic.
I couldn't think of the handlebar strap I use, its Canyon Dancer. It slips over both grips and has loops to attach straps to. The leverage and control the straps have way up and at the end of the bars, is incredible; you simply don't have to strap down too tightly. The straps are only there to keep the bike upright and pulled forward. I do strap the back since the backend does move sideways. IMO, any bump capable of bending my bars would probably damage to the floor mounted setup as well. Can you imagine the stress load placed on the Biker Bar; mounted below the frame and with 1000# sitting that high above it, hanking and pulling. You better darn sure have it bolted down well. The biker bar will not work on all bikes, either. Of course, neither will Canyon Dancer. Ask 20 people and get 20 answers how to tie down a bike. Only things more controversial is brand or tires, brand of bike, brand truck, religion and politics. But, not necessarily in that order.
__________________
Hyper Lite was sold
2017 F-250 4x4 6.2L Gas
I can't fix everything, but I can make it so nobody else can
Can't really tell whats holding the front tire but those straps will rub the paint off of the front pods. The best solution is always one of the simpler ones described by several people here. I have the chrome tie down brackets the Harley sells, $59.99, 93500011 or 06 depending on year. Best solution ever, it gets the straps away from painted bits and gives a secure tie down location. All other locations (handle bars, crash bars (never) and front axles) all have their short comings or destroy the motorcycle. Lock the front tire in a good wheel chock and strap through a Harley tie down bracket, if the chock is good you don't need to crank that hard. Tens of thousands of miles, no trouble. With the rear d-rings available just put one ratchet strap through the tire and cross it over to the d-rings. With the rubber floor and tire the rear won't move. Check the set up at every stop. Things loosen up.
. B&M Biker Bars. Works very well with no straps needed.
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