What did you do to your Hyperlite XLR today?

[meandmylabs]

I called the service manager at dealer and he said additional bracing is not needed. I also chose the Brisk 2 which is about 20 lbs lighter (74 lbs). I ran surface wiremold for the wiring.

[WolfWhistle]

[QUOTE=OutlawAdventurer;647045].....right now in process of designing mounts for mounting two of the aluminum drawer sliding boxes underneath and add a little extra storage..... added a LG sound bar with wireless subwoofer.... havent finished yet, but in process of building dividers and organizing the under bed and seat storage areas... not much of add on, but I use two padded jack stands (had two with flat notch, bought some thick rubber and glued to the top..... to level back door and use as a deck......
wall hangers in garage for hiking poles, metal detector and motorcycle items and fishing poles.

I am so glad I decided to add alot of things including some of the cold weather package underneath that we have done......way cheaper and just as effective.] END QUOTE

Outlaw, tell me about the aluminum sliding storage underneath. Is that under the trailer? The LG sound bar (I looked at one in Walmart) where (or how) did you mount the bar? I thought about a simple amp to two ceiling speakers, but your way has to be easier. Tell me more about adding cold weather package yourself? Thanks, Wolf. All of us like pictures... hint, hint.

[OutlawAdventurer]

The box is still a work in progress, I am planning on putting where the rear fuel tank would have been, I didnt get the tank, but the carry is right there in front of spare, I was planning on cutting the lip off sliding in and making a mount to bring out to edge, I have been looking at the low profile job type boxes and some of the shallow low profile aluminum boxes...

Right behind the rear tires and axle is enough room with the frames to mount to...this is another location we are looking at...one could use the tank frame work to mount off of also...

then brother in law said he could build one to dimesions, so we were thinking about up front in front of steps, by just putting a drop down hanger in couple of spots(the gas line runs below the frame part, they should have tucked it up inside frame)....we have to finish measuring and getting everything laid out...he is good at welding aluminum and the roller tracks for drawers aren't that expensive...we have been crawling around underneath and looking at different ideas for a while now....
there is actually room for several different ideas.....even one of the small square steel boxes with locking t-handle like you can get at tractor supply will work...most of what I am planning on storing in the underneath area is light weight stuff......

the one thing I have gathered crawling around there is 1. watch for weight, 2. the drop down area(dont want to get too low and 3 - the hangers will need to be placed right for support balance ..

I work 28 days on/28 off and just got home so that is still in work....

Sorry, Kinda of long winded but that is where we are on that, we are gear heads and always building or modifying things, nothing trashy, I am kind of anal about the stuff looking professional, so I plan alot and then build it, install it....

on thing I saw a friend of mine has done is use PVC and made rod holders under his.....kind of like the pro bass fisherman do on their trucks.....pretty neat and looks like it came that way...it is one large tube and holds 6 rods inside....with individual tubes in it....

The box on tongue (if these pics load) would have been better if I would have gotten a wider one and just put battery in it, drilled route holes for cables with rubber gromets, probably will do that later on...hind sight is 20/20 as they say........was in a hurry before trip and wasn't thinking...

Here is pic of sound bar and with the articulating arm it doesnt interfere with the TV, It was high enough even when we had tv mounted straight to wall....it comes with a sub woofer that is wireless, we have it back by bed....I will say this, that sound bar will blast.....my wife wants to get another and put in garage area with another tv...sometimes we let our, moved out children come hang with us...lol...lol..........

hope this helps....

[WolfWhistle]

I moved and changed the tank valves, black and one gray. The original black valve handle required practically crawling under the trailer. I replaced it with a cable operated Valterra 3" blade valve. I moved the front gray valve closer to the dump tube... it was under the slide, when out, it would require crawling, slide in it was such a problem. I took a pic and made some notes on it, hope it comes through. No more hands and knees... other than today :-)

[OutlawAdventurer]

Thats good idea, I am tired of crawling underneath to reach ours.

[motts461]

Made some changes to the entertainment center. I removed the center panel and door on the right. added a little compartment with door to hide tv wires and RF modulator for satellite receiver. Added a shelf for receiver and two shelves inside left cupboard. Also added two electric outlets, coax outlet and wall plate for hdmi cable.

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by motts461

Made some changes to the entertainment center. I removed the center panel and door on the right. added a little compartment with door to hide tv wires and RF modulator for satellite receiver. Added a shelf for receiver and two shelves inside left cupboard. Also added two electric outlets, coax outlet and wall plate for hdmi cable.

Nice work, motts!

[bowtie_guy]

I stopped in at the dealer to check mine out. Rear loading lights blow the 15 amp fuse along with few other things I wanted checked/ fixed.

They have her in pieces, wire is shorted somewhere along the way from the switch to the lights. With lights removed they still blow the fuse.

[WolfWhistle]

Seeing the workmanship on trailers, it surprises me this kind of thing doesn't happen more often. The wire is either pinched to ground / frame or a screw got shot into it (also grounded). If it were me I would completely remove the lights... maybe one of them has it grounded. More than likely it would be quicker to run new wire. I want to replace those lights with nice LEDs... 50W for $15 and 100W for $40 seems very reasonable and the housings look great. One of the posters on FRF (the.wilsons) gave me the link...

LEDwholesalers.com

... he has installed LED strip lights to back light the top of the slide out, looks very cool. I like the strip that has the adjustable gradient level, rather than all the bright colors. He plans adding LED lights to light up the steps and have them motion activated. That sounds pretty cool to me.

[Mysanity]

OutlawAdventurer...Do you mind telling me where you got the box for the tongue? Are you able to lock it? Thanks

[bowtie_guy]

Yes looks like the wire wore through somewhere, I picked the trailer up on a Thrusday. They worked when I brought it home. I towed it a couple hundred KM and setup to camp. Tried them and found the fuse blown.
Dealer has both lights removed and the issue is between the switch and where the lights hook up. Fuse is fine till you turn the switch on. Since it's new and still under warrenty i'm letting them fix it up.

Thanks for the link and info!

[WolfWhistle]

Insulation of floor nearing finality. With the belly off, I am tackling my next project, getting rear view cameras installed on the trailer and rear of truck. I kind of wished I had another camera so I can monitor the toy bay, but got to draw the line somewhere. I never knew how cool the cameras are, they can be triggered by backup (which I did know) but also left and right turn for those with side cameras, such as on a MH. You can also connect a DVD / DVR to it. I hooked it all up on the bench first to make sure everything works,,, and it does. Can't wait to try it out. But, first to finish the job.

[WolfWhistle]

Bowtie Guy,
I can better appreciate how hard it will be to fix the wiring trouble you are having. It would be nice to see one of these go together so you would know where to run wires. I had a time getting wiring from the center over the ramp to the side. One thing that is good news, the roof is insulated... hard to push a tape through or around it! Its the non-fiberglass stuff.

[Taranwanderer]

Having our first full week of camping in the XLR, finding several mods that need to be made! Ordered electric sewer valve actuators from Amazon yesterday, they should be at home by early next week. Also had to bolt on a bracket for a stepladder in the garage, as this is not a short person friendly camper. DW mounted the HD key rack on the garage wall, too.

WW, do you have a source for your cameras?

[WolfWhistle]

T,

I got the camera and cable kit from Amazon.

Rear View Night Vision Backup 2 Camera System for RV, Truck, Trailer, Bus, Fifth-Wheel
Sold by Rear View Safety Inc.


Quick Connect Disconnect Kit for Camera System
Sold by Rear View Safety Inc.




After crawling under the trailer for days, it dawned on me (started early that day!) that a rack could be installed underneath the trailer just behind the fuel tank. The challenge would be to make a decent rack. I will check to see if you can buy one already made.

I probably should have gone with the electric actuators for the 3" and the forward grey 1-1/2", but did the mechanical thing and it works.

I did get the cameras installed; putting one on the back of the pickup, too. I also had to shorten that cable. They furnish 65' cables for the two cameras, like you have a MH... and the camera has about 8' or more of cable, so I had seventy something feet when I only needed 20' and couldn't stand coiling up over 40' of cable on the truck. I cut and spliced the cable. I soldered and used heat shrink over everything. I came out better than I expected it to.

Originally Posted by Taranwanderer

Having our first full week of camping in the XLR, finding several mods that need to be made! Ordered electric sewer valve actuators from Amazon yesterday, they should be at home by early next week. Also had to bolt on a bracket for a stepladder in the garage, as this is not a short person friendly camper. DW mounted the HD key rack on the garage wall, too.

WW, do you have a source for your cameras?

[WolfWhistle]

Got the insulation done... put the shiny stuff like sun-shields are made of for windshields to the floor bottom itself; cut to each floor section... stapled well... then taped with aluminum duct tape around all edges. I actually put duct insulation made by Thermo King on all the tanks. Got the shiny stuff HD online... the sticky duct insulation and pipe insulation at HD store. I insulated water lines, too. I then sealed all holes into the trailer and eventually in the belly pan (coroplast). While open, I tied up all hanging wiring and protected some with wire cover... I also installed 1x2" wood strips to fasten the belly to. I originally just screwed with #12 SDST screws, but went back with bolts to be sure it doesn't pull loose, since when the tanks fill the expand down. Then, ran wiring (including 12Vdc for outside cigarette lighter and rear camera.

Note, I have a sanitary hose, but the garden hose was there!

[Taranwanderer]

Wow, WW, you've been busy! Nice work, and thanks for the pics and link to the camera. May have to convince the DW that we need one of those!

One other mod that I'm doing that I just noticed this morning. The tie-downs in the garage are just bolted into the plywood flooring with some long bolts--they have a Phillips head on top which indexes nicely into the tie-down, but there's nothing on the bottom of these bolts--no plate, no washer, not even a nut! I guess they're "supposed" to just have enough "bite" to hold into the plywood. As a dolphin would say: na-uh, na-uh! So I took one out, looks like I might be able to find a nylock nut and some washers for them--all 32 of 'em. I'm not trusting my Glide to a tie-down that's only screwed into wood!?!?

[WolfWhistle]

Taranwanderer,

I replaced the tie downs on my old TH; the tie downs screwed into the wood floor and floor joists, and was glued down with some kind of very tough silicone, for lack of a better description. I am sure they would have held, it was hell getting them out.

My 29 has about 8" wide sheet metal "plates" running all the way down the middle and down both sides of the garage. Are you sure they are not screwed into this sheet metal (maybe 1/8" thick)? Agreed bolts would be better... some might be hard to get to... my rear grey tank is slightly behind the rear axle.

I'll check mine out when the sun comes up.

Thanks for the useful information!
Wolf

[Taranwanderer]

Originally Posted by WolfWhistle

Taranwanderer,

I replaced the tie downs on my old TH; the tie downs screwed into the wood floor and floor joists, and was glued down with some kind of very tough silicone, for lack of a better description. I am sure they would have held, it was hell getting them out.

My 29 has about 8" wide sheet metal "plates" running all the way down the middle and down both sides of the garage. Are you sure they are not screwed into this sheet metal (maybe 1/8" thick)? Agreed bolts would be better... some might be hard to get to... my rear grey tank is slightly behind the rear axle.

I'll check mine out when the sun comes up.

Thanks for the useful information!
Wolf

I'm thinking you're right about the metal plates--those long bolts they used had a sheet-metal screw-like tip on them, and I only noticed it by looking at the tie-down by the rear man door from the side--it does look like it's screwed into the steel. Regardless, nuts and washers are getting added...

[WolfWhistle]

I looked under my unit and it would be easy to bolt them down.