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Old 03-15-2018, 12:15 AM   #1
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What is the "Solar Prep" package include on 2016 XLR HL 29HFS

What do you get if the coach has a "Solar Prep" package?.
Im wondering if that includes a charge controller and wires run to the battery specifically.
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Old 03-15-2018, 01:05 AM   #2
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Usually only includes a proprietary plug and wires that are too thin to properly charge a battery.
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Old 03-15-2018, 06:11 PM   #3
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A joke is what it is. I'd probably pay for it if it included a charge controller, etc. But, for just a proprietary plug and some wires, it's not much more than a marketing gimmick.
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Old 03-15-2018, 06:13 PM   #4
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Usually only includes a proprietary plug and wires that are too thin to properly charge a battery.
I can't say for sure about the gauge of the wires because I don't need to care... but the rest is entirely correct for my unit. My wires in the inside and just hanging loose, as we say.
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Old 03-15-2018, 06:14 PM   #5
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A 5$ plug and a sticker to you make you feel good and a real good marketing scam.
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Old 03-16-2018, 12:48 PM   #6
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I agree with all of the above.
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Old 03-16-2018, 07:24 PM   #7
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Here is the solar package. 20 bucks and a little effort and you've got it.
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Old 03-17-2018, 08:10 PM   #8
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You guys are so right. The "solar prep" package is a joke.
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Old 03-17-2018, 08:11 PM   #9
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Use a voltage drop calculator to limit the voltage drop to 3%. Use the roundtrip wire length.

If each wire is 40 feet, you would use 80 feet.

If you ever think you might add more panels, go up in size accordingly.
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Old 03-17-2018, 08:19 PM   #10
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Most new campers now come solar ready so, take it for what it's worth. Later RJD
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Old 03-31-2018, 11:19 AM   #11
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The solar prep package is adequate for 300 watts. Its a ten gauge wire. The real issue is its setup to place the panels on the ground next to the rv. I would have preferred if forest river would have run it to the roof for permanent mounting. Thats the avenue I will be going.
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Old 03-31-2018, 01:38 PM   #12
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The solar prep package is adequate for 300 watts. Its a ten gauge wire. The real issue is its setup to place the panels on the ground next to the rv. I would have preferred if forest river would have run it to the roof for permanent mounting. Thats the avenue I will be going.
Keep in mind that with 300W you will have around 16.5A peak. If you want to keep the voltage drop below 3% for a 20 foot run(That's 10' for each conductor) you will need 8 gauge wire. I will have 700W on my roof. I will be using 4 gauge from my combiner box on the roof to my controller.
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Old 03-31-2018, 05:22 PM   #13
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Thanks. I'm a GC and we do lots of solar setups. Even here in NM in ideal conditions peak is a small window. The exception to that for us is using a single axis tracker. That being said, I highly doubt our rv will ever even see 60% where we're planning on using it. LOL

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Keep in mind that with 300W you will have around 16.5A peak. If you want to keep the voltage drop below 3% for a 20 foot run(That's 10' for each conductor) you will need 8 gauge wire. I will have 700W on my roof. I will be using 4 gauge from my combiner box on the roof to my controller.
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Old 04-03-2018, 02:06 PM   #14
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Can you plug in a solar panel just to keep a slight charge on the battery while the unit is sitting in the yard waiting on the next trip?
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Old 04-03-2018, 05:23 PM   #15
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Can you plug in a solar panel just to keep a slight charge on the battery while the unit is sitting in the yard waiting on the next trip?
Only if the solar panel output is so low that it doesn't go above float charge when the battery gets fully charged
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Old 04-03-2018, 05:31 PM   #16
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Only if the solar panel output is so low that it doesn't go above float charge when the battery gets fully charged
Well, no.

One needs
- A panel or panels to generate electricity
- A controller to regulate when and how that power is allowed to go to the batteries. The controller is responsible for not overcharging the batteries.
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Old 04-03-2018, 06:20 PM   #17
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Well, no.

One needs
- A panel or panels to generate electricity
- A controller to regulate when and how that power is allowed to go to the batteries. The controller is responsible for not overcharging the batteries.
Well...yes and no.

If you attach a 15W or less trickle charger panel, you will not over charge your batteries. The person who asked the question didn't specify how large a panel he was putting on. There are dozens of trickle panel panels out there that never intend to have a controller on them and they don't need them.
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Old 04-03-2018, 06:32 PM   #18
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Well...yes and no.

If you attach a 15W or less trickle charger panel, you will not over charge your batteries. The person who asked the question didn't specify how large a panel he was putting on. There are dozens of trickle panel panels out there that never intend to have a controller on them and they don't need them.
All of the 15 W "trickle charger" panels that I can find using Google have controllers built in - am I missing something?
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Old 04-03-2018, 06:37 PM   #19
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All of the 15 W "trickle charger" panels that I can find using Google have controllers built in - am I missing something?
You may have seen some that have them. Most don't. Since it is putting out 800mA or less, you really don't need them. That's why I stated, see if the voltage range when it's fully charged is in it's float voltage range.
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Old 05-25-2018, 11:53 PM   #20
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So has anyone used it yet?
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