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Old 02-03-2023, 08:38 PM   #1
2014 Stealth TH WA2313
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: California
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2014 Stealth W2313: Fitting a 60" Refrigerator in 54" Space?

Hello,

So my 2014 Stealth, which I LOVE - needs a new fridge. However, after doing all the research I conclude that replacing the 55" Dometic with a 60" 12v or 110 Residential is the right way for ME to go (most of our camping is in 115 degree heat with shore power - the absorption Fridge will just NOT work in that heat).

12v vs 110 Residential is a different, more complex topic for another post, and I am still finishing my research on this... for another upcoming post.

My question - will the 60" fit where the current 55" fridge resides? Yes, a bit of wood work on the framing is needed - but I have never looked into the space above the fridge to see if that area is clear. My Stealth is stored 6 hours away from home (city storage is crazy expensive) and would like to order the Fridge before I go pick it up for the spring campsite relocation - with delivery still taking "extra" time these days (depending on the model).

So, any insight on the space above the fridge or similar swaps would be GREATLY appreciated! The few dozen posts and video's I have seen "suggest" it is an easy swap - but I have found my little trailer does not have much wasted space - there must be something up there above the fridge, right?

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Larry
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Old 02-05-2023, 11:08 AM   #2
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You're partially answering your own question

Sounds like you need to complete your research first and know your options for fitment then take your measurements in your Stealth to know your clearances and access before buying

A 12 hour round trip in the Stealths current location is a logistical challenge.


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Old 02-05-2023, 12:03 PM   #3
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Tough question.

You need someone here who has done it and remembers the details.

This is a finish carpenter question. No big deal. Finding a finish to clean up the bare wood that matches. Tough.

After removal of the current fridge you have to measure the real opening size.

The carpenter who installed the fridge likely had fillers and supports he made to center the unit the way he wanted it. You might remove one board to fix it. Modification of a drawer space is hard.

Likely you will loose a drawer or something. I played this game with a European oven in the sticks and bricks home. European stuff is smaller. Sometimes.

The downside of a residential fridge is you use 20% or more battery than a 12 volt unit. No big deal if you always plug in.
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Old 02-05-2023, 12:13 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomkatb View Post
Tough question.





The carpenter who installed the fridge likely had fillers and supports he made to center the unit the way he wanted it. You might remove one board to fix it. Modification of a drawer space is hard.



Likely you will loose a drawer or something.
Rough opening is key, as you mentioned. The 55" RO is probably something like 59" +/- 1"

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Old 02-05-2023, 02:10 PM   #5
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Bad news is likely you have to make a best case guess and wing it from there.

The old fridge likely had an installation drawing in the pile of documents that came with the unit. Might help.

I suspect you will have to remove the old fridge. Then saw out everything in front. Build a stand to get the right height installation. Then fill in the area below the. fridge to match the cabinet.

Not a half hour job.
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Old 02-06-2023, 04:59 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Laroo View Post
Hello,



So my 2014 Stealth, which I LOVE - needs a new fridge. However, after doing all the research I conclude that replacing the 55" Dometic with a 60" 12v or 110 Residential is the right way for ME to go (most of our camping is in 115 degree heat with shore power - the absorption Fridge will just NOT work in that heat).



Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Larry
Is the existing absorption frig/freezer working?

If so, have you considered adding cooling fans such as the ones below? These types of fans have been very successfully used and might be worth trying. Folks have installed them to the rear of refrigerators and I've seen posts of installing them on the roof.

Lot cheaper than replacing your frig unless it's broken

All I've got is a 15 yo RM2652 Dometic 6 Cu ft absorption with a 2 D cell battery operated fan I bought for <$20 and my fridge and freezer work fine when daytime highs are mid 90s to low 100s. Never seen 115 for sure but your running your AC on shore power, right? That should keep your interior about 90-95 and cooler at night. .Click image for larger version

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Old 02-07-2023, 08:09 PM   #7
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As a follow up to Chris.

I have noticed some modern rv fridges installed incorrectly.

Compressor fridges are generally design to be free standing! Having a sheet of plywood touching the sides of the fridge is not what is in the installation manual. Built in fridges like Sub Zero are built differently.

In the past all gas electric fridges were not installed in the slide. There was an overhead vent.

A set of fans if your fridge is in the slide will help.

We have a fridge in our slide. However we have factory installed fans. In Houston during the summer it is really hot! Well over 100.
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Old 02-08-2023, 11:05 PM   #8
2014 Stealth TH WA2313
 
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I do have fans, inside and out. Consistent with every post I have read, exterior walled located absorption refrigerators don't work in 115 degree heat, especially consistently for months. Welcome to lake Havasu.

I figure someone with a Stealth or Sandstorm or other multiple models have taken that old absorption fridge out and had the measurement. Alternatively, looking to source a 12v or 110v locally.
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Old 02-08-2023, 11:51 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Laroo View Post
I do have fans, inside and out. Consistent with every post I have read, exterior walled located absorption refrigerators don't work in 115 degree heat, especially consistently for months. Welcome to lake Havasu.

I figure someone with a Stealth or Sandstorm or other multiple models have taken that old absorption fridge out and had the measurement. Alternatively, looking to source a 12v or 110v locally.
Thanks for the update.

Let us know what you ended up doing it may help someone else in a similar situation.

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