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04-18-2021, 03:16 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Enid, OK
Posts: 35
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5th wheel hitch slips
We have a CurtQ 5th wheel hitch. We checked it out because on first acceleration it feels like the is a lot of slipping at the hitch and then it jerks caught and 'catches up' with us. I saw 2 inches of movement in the white plastic piece. The RV repair guy took a look since we had it in for a second AC. Says he say about 1.5inches movement, but not sure if this is normal or not not. Any input appreciated.
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04-18-2021, 03:20 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Enid, OK
Posts: 35
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Oh it's on a 2018 297RKS. Seems like it has done this since we bought new, but thought it was something else.
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04-18-2021, 07:45 PM
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#3
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Now a "Top Member"
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Roman Forest, TX
Posts: 4,310
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I have an older Curt 20K slider, and I know it has some play. I never tried to see how much, but it definitely makes some noise starting and stopping. It's been back there for 11 years though, and never any issues.
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Ed and Sharon
2010 Wildcat 28RKBS
2019 Ford F-250 XLT - AWESOME Truck!
Retired AF MSgt
I thought I was wrong once, but I was wrong!
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04-18-2021, 07:59 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Enid, OK
Posts: 35
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Thanks. Just always sounds something Is gonna break.
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04-19-2021, 01:23 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Stone Harbor, New Jersey
Posts: 102
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We have a Curt A16 slider hitch, and it has some play, probably less than 1/2", but it can make a pretty good "clunk" when you stop and start.
I found you can really minimize or eliminate the noise by adjusting the gain on the trailer brakes properly. The idea is to adjust things so that the trailer brakes finish the stop rather than the truck stopping the trailer.
The clunk comes from the truck stopping before the trailer, so the trailer slides forward that last little distance and clunk! Then when you start out, the truck pulls ahead until that little distance is gone, then another clunk.
By adjusting the gain on the trailer brake control (usually higher), and using some finesse "feathering" the brake pedal at the end of a stop, you can get the trailer to stop first, and since it never slides forward, there is no clunk.
It takes a little practice, but it comes natural after a while ....
__________________
Bill & Kate, Stone Harbor, NJ
2014 Forest River Wildcat 272RLX Fifth Wheel
2018 Ford F-250 Super Duty XLT 6.2L Gas
Zeke (the Partipoodle) 8 yrs, Ginger (standard poodle) 7 mos - both rescues
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04-19-2021, 01:46 PM
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#6
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"Curmudgeon"
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Zebulon, NC, NC
Posts: 289
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I put on a new Curt hitch on my 2018 F-150 and unlocked my Reese Revolution. The universal wedge did not work well, so I bought the Curt wedge and carefully adjusted it. I don't get any slop pulling or stopping. I had a PullRite 3300 slider on my Tundra and it was pretty quiet too.
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TrawlerPhil
2014 Flagstaff Classic Ultralite 8528RKWS
2018 F-150 4X4 Max tow EcoBoost 3.5
2020 Tesla Model Y
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04-19-2021, 09:41 PM
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#7
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Now a "Top Member"
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Roman Forest, TX
Posts: 4,310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathcartww
We have a Curt A16 slider hitch, and it has some play, probably less than 1/2", but it can make a pretty good "clunk" when you stop and start.
I found you can really minimize or eliminate the noise by adjusting the gain on the trailer brakes properly. The idea is to adjust things so that the trailer brakes finish the stop rather than the truck stopping the trailer.
The clunk comes from the truck stopping before the trailer, so the trailer slides forward that last little distance and clunk! Then when you start out, the truck pulls ahead until that little distance is gone, then another clunk.
By adjusting the gain on the trailer brake control (usually higher), and using some finesse "feathering" the brake pedal at the end of a stop, you can get the trailer to stop first, and since it never slides forward, there is no clunk.
It takes a little practice, but it comes natural after a while ....
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I have had some moderate success with this method. It is difficult to get it just right, then it doesn't take much to forget all about it and clunk it all up at the first red light. Oh well. I've been good with it for 11 years.
__________________
Ed and Sharon
2010 Wildcat 28RKBS
2019 Ford F-250 XLT - AWESOME Truck!
Retired AF MSgt
I thought I was wrong once, but I was wrong!
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04-20-2021, 07:15 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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Which "white plastic piece" are you seeing move?
Which direction is the movement?
If you have movement in the pin box frame it could be a problem.
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Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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04-20-2021, 06:54 PM
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#9
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Recently new!
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Arizona, in The Land of Scorch!
Posts: 1,206
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My PT pin box was causing my clunk. First time pulling my new 5’r, on the way home. Noticed it seemed to float over the bumps with too much up and down movement. Tightened the bolts, all is well. I broke the fiberglass fairing a couple of years ago. Put in 2 more grade 8 bolts while I had that apart. Now, there are 3 bolts per side instead of 2. Repaired the fairing, all is even better now!
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1987 Starcraft Nova tent trailer, purch. '87, sold 8.14
2013 Crusader 290RLT bought new, 8.14 lotsa mods!
2001 Ford F-250 7.3
Loving wife, R.I.P., 6/6/19
and Mason the always dirty dog! R.I.P, 2/19
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04-20-2021, 07:49 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Dade City Florida
Posts: 556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.kimbruce
We have a CurtQ 5th wheel hitch. We checked it out because on first acceleration it feels like the is a lot of slipping at the hitch and then it jerks caught and 'catches up' with us. I saw 2 inches of movement in the white plastic piece. The RV repair guy took a look since we had it in for a second AC. Says he say about 1.5inches movement, but not sure if this is normal or not not. Any input appreciated.
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So you have a "Q" (not a A or E series) series double jaw Curt Hitch, and you are talking about movement of the 1/4" thick white lubricating disk that goes around the 2" pin on the fifth wheel when properly attached to the Q-XX Curt fifth wheel hitch.
Are you saying there is 2 inches of forward/backword movement of the 2" pin within the Curt hitch?
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2023 Explorer ST-Line w/Tow package
2021 Surveyor Legend 19RBLE
2018 Haulin 6 x 12 Cargo Trailer by Forest River
2017 Laredo 325RL Sold
2016 Vengeance 29V Sold
1970 Yellowstone Used as down payment for first house
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04-20-2021, 08:08 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1,272
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I've had a Curt Q20 for several years ... pretty rock solid as far as stop and go pulling. If you remove the 2 keepers from the 2 pins that hold the saddles to the base, lift the head off. There are two square rubber bumpers on the upper head itself and another rubber bumper with a square hole in it bolted to the base. These should have a little play in them, but not a whole lot. If they are used up or missing ... you can buy them from Curt. They are a very easy install. Make sure you have the large pivot pin correctly in place when you replace the upper head to the base. You won't be able to install the saddles and pins if the pivot shaft is not set correctly. Make sure to grease it per manuf instructions. I also spray some WD-40 or dry graphite spray on the hitch jaw mechanisms as well. Makes it lock in better when hitching up. As far as the "white plastic piece" ... I'm guessing that is the lube plate that goes around the pin box pin. It should fit tight around that pin. I've never seen anything near 1.5" between the lube plate and the steel horseshoe shaped Curt fiver plate once the fiver is set onto the hitch. If so, I'd think something is going on with the clamshell jaws.
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05-06-2021, 07:41 AM
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#12
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Enid, OK
Posts: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankG
So you have a "Q" (not a A or E series) series double jaw Curt Hitch, and you are talking about movement of the 1/4" thick white lubricating disk that goes around the 2" pin on the fifth wheel when properly attached to the Q-XX Curt fifth wheel hitch.
Are you saying there is 2 inches of forward/backword movement of the 2" pin within the Curt hitch?
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Yes. At least the lubricating disk is moving that much. The thing is, the jaws look pretty tight on the king pin.
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05-15-2021, 04:05 PM
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#13
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 53
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Silly question, but is this a slide hitch?
I have a 20K Curt hitch and it is not a slider, but if I take of quickly or stop fairly quickly, there is definitely some movement. When I am conscientious of how I stop and start, the noise/jerking is hardly noticeable.
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05-15-2021, 05:26 PM
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#14
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Enid, OK
Posts: 35
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It is not a slider. Since I'm always the copilot, I cant tell about awareness starts and stops. We were mostly afraid it was the pins holding the 5th wheel in the truck. Until I got in the backseat and saw the upper movement. Sounds like this is the norm, so nothing is breaking and I'm good with that.
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05-15-2021, 05:37 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Enid, OK
Posts: 35
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Bama Rambler the lubricating disk seems to be moving front to back about 2 in. The jaws are good and tight around the kingpin, so I dont really see how it can move that much. Sounds like others have some movement, too. I'm going to watch some more and see if it was a fluke that day or maybe I didn't see it as clearly as I thought. As long as that king pin is held firm, I guess we are ok.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
Which "white plastic piece" are you seeing move?
Which direction is the movement?
If you have movement in the pin box frame it could be a problem.
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05-15-2021, 06:44 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Payson, AZ
Posts: 3,859
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What pin box do you have? And what is your reference when you say 2” of movement? By that I mean is the white disk moving 2” on the top of the hitch, or is it moving 2” as compared against the top of the pin box? We have a morryde pin box with the rubber spring in it. The top and bottom portions of the pin box will move in relation to each other. The white disk is attached to the kingpin and the bottom portion of the pin box. The jaws hold the king pin pretty well inside the hitch and there is little to no movement of the kingpin and attached white disk in relation to the hitch. But if you were looking at the white disk and seeing it move in and out in relation to the top of the pin box I could envision 2” of movement.
Other hitches might have similar movement with the pin box.
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2015 cardinal model 3825fl
2015 dodge ram 3500 dually
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09-11-2021, 10:05 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 182
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The lube plate is snuggly attached to the king pin and should not move at all. Possibility that the lube plate is too thick and you are high hitching. In other words not capturing the king pin in the jaws but on top of it.
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2022 Renegade Valencia 35MB
2020 Ram 1500 Laramie toad
2019 Harley Davidson FLHCS
2012 Prime Time Crusader 355BHQ
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09-11-2021, 10:32 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Southern NM
Posts: 9,505
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I would have to see a video of this much movement. If any part of any of my hitches moved more than 1/4" I would be concerned.
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Scott and Liz - Southern NM
2012 Wildcat Sterling 32RL - w/level up (best option ever)
2007 Chevy 2500HD Duramax
Reese Fifth Airborne Sidewinder
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09-11-2021, 11:59 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 1,339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NMWildcat
I would have to see a video of this much movement. If any part of any of my hitches moved more than 1/4" I would be concerned.
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X2
I can't see that once you are connected properly that you would be able to see any movement at all of the lube disk. The weight of the 5er would basically pin it between the Curt hitch and the bottom of the pin base preventing it from moving anymore then the pin would move when clamped up..
If the lube plate is moving most likely it is not connected correctly and could end up disconnecting from the TV. After you have hitched your 5er, can you physically move the lube plate by hand? If so you need to reevaluate your connection.
Earlier this year (March), I purchased a new LB truck (see signature below) then bought a new Curt A25 as I no longer needed a slider. My old SB truck had an auto-slider that would clunk at times at a stop light when I started moving again. I have only connected to my new truck & hitch once, but after adding the lube plate to my 5er I found that the first time I back in to hitch up, the plate seemed to prevent the pin from being properly connected. I had to adjust the height of my 5er a couple of times before I felt it was connected correctly.
Like Wildcat suggested a video of the movement would help greatly in getting you a good suggestion for your situation.
Good luck and safe travels -
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2018 Cedar Creek 36CK2 (40.5ft)
TST Cap System (Tire Monitoring)
2021 Chevy 3500HD Crew Cab 4X4 DRW Duramax (replaced 2015 Chevy 2500HD Crew Cab 4X4 Duramax)
Curt A25 5th Wheel Hitch (replaced Demco 18K Auto-slide)
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09-12-2021, 05:35 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fort White, Fl
Posts: 760
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Many years ago when we bought our first 5er the dealer sold us a Curt 16k hitch that instead of Jaws that lock around the pin had a straight steel bar that when you backed in to connect would go forward causing another straight bar to pop around the backside of the pin. Almost every time we would stop we'd get a forward push and when taking off it would jerk and clunk. It moved but, not anywhere near 2". Needless to say that hitch has long since been replaced.
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2021 Alpine 3790FK
2021 F-350 SD XLT PS 6.7 Dually Longbed 4wd Crew Cab
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