Another suggestion

Mikedboyd · 03-29-2013, 10:08 AM

RVGuy - I was going through my de-winterizing this morning for the first time (trailer was delivered 'winterized'). The panel to get to the water pump and bypass valves is held in place by 2 screws. This panel should be one that 'opens', since you have to repeatedly open and close it, over the years. With all of the hoses inside that panel, it seems it would have been an easy design item to put the hot water tank bypass valves over nearer the panel door, or at least face them toward that panel. Laying on your belly, working by feel, 2 feet inside the panel to a valve that faces AWAY from you is just not logical. Please advise your design people to improve that access.

thanks

Len & Cheri · 03-29-2013, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikedboyd

RVGuy - I was going through my de-winterizing this morning for the first time (trailer was delivered 'winterized'). The panel to get to the water pump and bypass valves is held in place by 2 screws. This panel should be one that 'opens', since you have to repeatedly open and close it, over the years.

Prime Time isn't the only manufacturer falling short of what you would think is common sense, Palomino did the same thing on my TT.

**RV Guy** · 03-29-2013, 11:28 AM

Thanks for the feedback - makes sense.

**Herk7769** · 03-29-2013, 12:57 PM

My Flagstaff's panel was removed and discarded by the dealer's tech during my PDI for that very reason.

Scratch · 03-29-2013, 01:12 PM

Our recently purchased Challenger is designed similarly and two previously owned trailers (a FR Flagstaff & a Keystone Cougar) were frustratingly designed the same way. Never understood why easier HWH bypass access was not considered during engineering.

Maybe it just takes a post like this one to elevate the problem. Prime Time could make lots of points with a thoughtful redesign.

awwall · 03-29-2013, 01:23 PM

Had similar panels on my GeorgeTown. One covered the water pump and associated hose/valves and the other covered the water filter compartment. Both only had hand holes for access. There was no way you could remove water filter, filter, through a hand hole. Removed panels the 1st day I brought it home.

caper · 03-29-2013, 01:57 PM

While we are asking the RVguy questions I would like to suggest that the RV industry could wire a 120 volt outlet to plug a space heater into. They could mark the outlet for heater use only and jump off the AC breaker. You do not use AC and a heater at the same time. This would allow a person to plug a heater into the 30 amp post and not be tripping the 15 amp breaker that controls the outlets in the trailer.

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