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Old 09-25-2022, 05:04 AM   #1
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Atwood Furnace on 2016 Avenger

Our Atwood furnace ignites but goes immediately back out. We’ve replaced the circuit board, valve, and igniter and the code still shows gas restriction in the line. Our RV repair man who is brilliant said that it wasn’t getting enough gas to the igniter to keep it burning. He noticed a place in the gas line that looked narrowed. He spliced the gas line removing the narrow piece and put fittings on. He’s an extremely smart guy and I trust him but I’m so worried about the gas line leaking now that it’s been spliced. I suffer from anxiety as a child because my father made me fearful of all things gas as we had gas heaters in our home. I worry with all the movement of the camper in travel that the gas line spliced will get loose and let gas leak. Can anyone offer any advice to calm my nerves? My repair man is the best but it’s all me! I’m the one who’s fearful of it leaking while I sleep. Thanks!!!
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Old 09-25-2022, 08:31 AM   #2
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If the splice is the proper components for splicing gas lines, then those connections shouldn't concern you any more than the ones at the LP tanks or the ones at the water heater or stove.
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Old 09-25-2022, 08:39 AM   #3
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Post a photo of the spliced section.
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Old 09-25-2022, 01:47 PM   #4
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Post a photo of the spliced section.


Can’t get phone up in the furnace to get a pic. They couldn’t pull the furnace out because a drain hose from the fridge is blocking it.
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Old 09-25-2022, 01:48 PM   #5
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Can’t get phone up in the furnace to get a pic. They couldn’t pull the furnace out because a drain hose from the fridge is blocking it.


My husband said he used copper fittings made for splicing.
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Old 09-25-2022, 02:32 PM   #6
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My husband said he used copper fittings made for splicing.
I'm guessing then the splices are in the copper supply line? If so, they may be brass and are of the same style as the supply connection fittings used at all the LP appliances. Without pictures or first hand identification, I'm guessing your concern is much ado over nothing.
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Old 09-25-2022, 04:03 PM   #7
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I'm guessing then the splices are in the copper supply line? If so, they may be brass and are of the same style as the supply connection fittings used at all the LP appliances. Without pictures or first hand identification, I'm guessing your concern is much ado over nothing.


My husband said that it was in the copper supply line. He said they used the brass fittings made for gas lines.
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Old 09-25-2022, 04:07 PM   #8
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I'm guessing then the splices are in the copper supply line? If so, they may be brass and are of the same style as the supply connection fittings used at all the LP appliances. Without pictures or first hand identification, I'm guessing your concern is much ado over nothing.


I worry with all the jarring around the camper does when on the road that this fitting will loosen up. My husband said they had to tighten the fittings more because gas was coming out where they spliced. He said once they tightened the fittings down they checked the fitting with soapy water and also smelled for gas and no bubbles or gas smell.
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Old 09-25-2022, 04:24 PM   #9
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You may want to replace the propane detector since yours is a 2016 and the life span is generally 5 years. It will help you sleep better.
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Old 09-25-2022, 06:02 PM   #10
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If the splice is the proper components for splicing gas lines, then those connections shouldn't concern you any more than the ones at the LP tanks or the ones at the water heater or stove.
Well, now you've done it. She's going to be worrying about all those other connections.

Maybe I missed it, but does the heater work now?

Your dad was correct to worry about the gas in your home, but that was probably natural gas, not propane. Now they put an 'odor' into natural gas, but years ago you didn't have that and natural gas would accumulate without anyone noticing.

In addition to having propane and CO detectors that will tell you if gas is leaking into the rig, propane has a distinctive odor that you will smell if you have a leak. You can be aware, but don't be scared.

You probably should replace the propane detector as suggested and if you can't find one right away, go to a home improvement store or WalMart and buy a battery operated one.
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Old 09-25-2022, 07:58 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by plh869 View Post
I worry with all the jarring around the camper does when on the road that this fitting will loosen up. My husband said they had to tighten the fittings more because gas was coming out where they spliced. He said once they tightened the fittings down they checked the fitting with soapy water and also smelled for gas and no bubbles or gas smell.
Obviously you have concerns about gas and I'm not guessing anything we say to you on a R/V forum is going to change that.

But... you did ask and you'll get opinions regardless.

Could the fitting jar loose from all the vibrations going down the road?... sure, but not likely at all if assembled correctly by your Ace repair guy.

Then on the other hand... could the wheels fall off from improper lug torque or could the fresh tank back fill from an improperly working check valve and fall-out from underneath the R/V or could the slide mechanism fail and not extend or retract or could the awning blow up over the R/V in an unexpected wind situation or could the (insert anything here) and you get the picture.

I'm not going to pretend to know how your concerns bother you. On the other hand, knowing what all 'could' go wrong during any R/V outing, I'm also not going to wear a tin foil hat every time I go camping waiting for something to happen that may never happen. We take chances in life every day.

If your fears outweigh the enjoyment you should be getting from your R/V adventures, maybe you need to choose a different form of relaxation.
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Old 09-26-2022, 02:50 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Capacitor View Post
You may want to replace the propane detector since yours is a 2016 and the life span is generally 5 years. It will help you sleep better.


We just replaced it a few weeks ago for general upkeep. Glad we did!! Thanks!!
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Old 09-26-2022, 02:55 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Reverse_snowbird View Post
Well, now you've done it. She's going to be worrying about all those other connections.



Maybe I missed it, but does the heater work now?



Your dad was correct to worry about the gas in your home, but that was probably natural gas, not propane. Now they put an 'odor' into natural gas, but years ago you didn't have that and natural gas would accumulate without anyone noticing.



In addition to having propane and CO detectors that will tell you if gas is leaking into the rig, propane has a distinctive odor that you will smell if you have a leak. You can be aware, but don't be scared.



You probably should replace the propane detector as suggested and if you can't find one right away, go to a home improvement store or WalMart and buy a battery operated one.


Thanks so much! Oh and the furnace is still not working even after splicing the line. I felt like we should not do that beforehand. We just replaced our propane sensor alarm a few weeks ago for general upkeep. I’ll definitely update everyone once it’s figured out what caused it. Thanks!!
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Old 09-26-2022, 02:58 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Obviously you have concerns about gas and I'm not guessing anything we say to you on a R/V forum is going to change that.

But... you did ask and you'll get opinions regardless.

Could the fitting jar loose from all the vibrations going down the road?... sure, but not likely at all if assembled correctly by your Ace repair guy.

Then on the other hand... could the wheels fall off from improper lug torque or could the fresh tank back fill from an improperly working check valve and fall-out from underneath the R/V or could the slide mechanism fail and not extend or retract or could the awning blow up over the R/V in an unexpected wind situation or could the (insert anything here) and you get the picture.

I'm not going to pretend to know how your concerns bother you. On the other hand, knowing what all 'could' go wrong during any R/V outing, I'm also not going to wear a tin foil hat every time I go camping waiting for something to happen that may never happen. We take chances in life every day.

If your fears outweigh the enjoyment you should be getting from your R/V adventures, maybe you need to choose a different form of relaxation.


I don’t stress over other things going wrong but gas is a different animal. Lots could go wrong that can be fixed but a gas leak could be deadly. Thanks for your input!
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Old 09-26-2022, 01:52 PM   #15
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Regulator

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Originally Posted by plh869 View Post
Thanks so much! Oh and the furnace is still not working even after splicing the line. I felt like we should not do that beforehand. We just replaced our propane sensor alarm a few weeks ago for general upkeep. I’ll definitely update everyone once it’s figured out what caused it. Thanks!!
The furnace needs a LOT more gas volume than the range or water heater. An aging or failing regulator (near the propane tank) can cause furnace ignition problems, even if the water heater and range are working fine. Do you know if the regulator was tested. Most of them fail after 8-10 years.

If you are still concerned about the spliced line, put some soap bubbles on it yourself every so often. You need a coffee cup and a paint brush. Put a squirt of dishwashing liquid (e.g., Joy) in the coffee cup. Fill it 3/4 full with water. Stir it up with the paint brush until there are plenty of bubbles. Paint it on all the joints and watch. If there's a leak, it will be VERY obvious.
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Old 09-26-2022, 05:01 PM   #16
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The furnace needs a LOT more gas volume than the range or water heater. An aging or failing regulator (near the propane tank) can cause furnace ignition problems, even if the water heater and range are working fine. Do you know if the regulator was tested. Most of them fail after 8-10 years.



If you are still concerned about the spliced line, put some soap bubbles on it yourself every so often. You need a coffee cup and a paint brush. Put a squirt of dishwashing liquid (e.g., Joy) in the coffee cup. Fill it 3/4 full with water. Stir it up with the paint brush until there are plenty of bubbles. Paint it on all the joints and watch. If there's a leak, it will be VERY obvious.


So funny you mentioned the regulator. My husband checked it yesterday with soapy water and it was leaking bad! He has replaced it with a new one and also replaced the hoses that connect the tanks to the main gas line. Hopefully will know later today if this fixed the furnace issue. Thanks!!!!
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Old 09-26-2022, 07:54 PM   #17
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It likely will

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So funny you mentioned the regulator. My husband checked it yesterday with soapy water and it was leaking bad! He has replaced it with a new one and also replaced the hoses that connect the tanks to the main gas line. Hopefully will know later today if this fixed the furnace issue. Thanks!!!!
It likely will. I can't believe the repair person didn't check it first AND DO A TEST ON THE PRESSURE OUT. This is the most common failure. The diaphragm inside the regulator is very thin and pinholes occur after 8-10 years. When this happens, you can smell gas at the regulator and the pressure of gas to the appliances increases!

The range has a second-stage regulator, so you usually don't see a problem there, and the water heater is pretty tolerant. But the furnace is turbo-charged, and when the pressure off, even a little, it will fail to ignite.

Not sure the pigtails to the tanks were part of the problem, but it won't hurt.

Tell me, did you do the soap bubble test on hubby's work?
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Old 09-26-2022, 09:08 PM   #18
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Furnace Shutting Off

My Atwood furnace had the same symptoms. I found a mud dauber (wasp) nest deep in the burner assembly and a dead stinkbug near the igniter, both disrupting the flow of gas in the heat exchanger tube. Cleared out the nest and blew out the heat exchanger tube to restore normal operation. I now have insect screens installed in the furnace, water heater and refrigerator.
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