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07-10-2012, 08:13 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
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Thanks
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07-10-2012, 08:42 AM
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Fredericksburg, VA.
Posts: 51
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Hey Len, How's that welding coming along? Oh yeah, save it for another forum. Hope you're doing well!
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07-10-2012, 10:08 AM
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#23
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Too old to be too smart
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: La La Land
Posts: 439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan
Many times I've sat with a palm full of sticky grease while I massaged the cone part of the bearing to get the grease to completely fill the gaps around each roller.
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Eight times, just last month.
Just like you described.
Pop
__________________
Terry 250RKS, perfect for the two of us and the pups.
2000 F-350 7.3L CC/LB 4WD Lariat 3.73's
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07-10-2012, 10:13 AM
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#24
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769
I am a member of the "Full Hub" crowd.
The EZ Lube spindles are made to be used full.
Some mechanics just yank the hubs without regard for the seals when they check the brakes during the annual inspection.
They then jamb the hubs back on without checking the seals for wear or scratches when they pulled the hub off are more likely the culprit for grease blow out. Then they get to blame you for their incompetence.
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BOY how right you are on that one Herk! For what it's worth, I totally agree.
__________________
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07-10-2012, 10:29 AM
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#25
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Too old to be too smart
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: La La Land
Posts: 439
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Herk make a good case for being your own maintenance tech, doesn't he?
I think that sometimes the axle manufacturers also don't put as fine a finish on the seal surface as they should, and I have even found rough "burrs" there. Crocus cloth polishing and thorough cleaning afterward sometimes is in order.
A real close inspection is too, no matter what.
Pop
__________________
Terry 250RKS, perfect for the two of us and the pups.
2000 F-350 7.3L CC/LB 4WD Lariat 3.73's
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07-10-2012, 12:35 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Summerfield, FL
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769
The hitch should be installed as it is "payload" for the truck. In the WD calculations everything forward of the ball is truck payload; everything aft of the ball is camper payload - WHEN CONNECTED.
Camper payload must be under it's GVWR disconnected (tongue/pin included).
Truck payload must be under it's GVWR when connected (tongue/pin weight included.
The only time you do not "double count" is when figuring "Combined Weight" when the tongue weight is only used once.
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When the camper is connected to the TV or the TT front lift is down (seems like the tongue weight is never on the axles?) is it OK to add more stuff into it as long as the added stuff weight doesn't exceed the tongue/pin weight less the WD hitch return weight to the TT?
(I'm mainly thinking of the water tank load of about 400 lbs full - I always travel with an empty water tank because of its weight)
.
__________________
2018 Flagstaff 29KSWS
2008 Ram Laramie 3500 Megacab 4x4 Cummins 6.7L Turbo Diesel
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07-10-2012, 01:54 PM
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#27
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckinca
When the camper is connected to the TV or the TT front lift is down (seems like the tongue weight is never on the axles?) is it OK to add more stuff into it as long as the added stuff weight doesn't exceed the tongue/pin weight less the WD hitch return weight to the TT?
(I'm mainly thinking of the water tank load of about 400 lbs full - I always travel with an empty water tank because of its weight)
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IMO, No, it is not OK. The camper's frame is where the limit is determined. Regardless of what wheels carry the weight; the frame "sees" it all.
Tongue weight plus main camper wheel load (camper weight) must never exceed the GWVR of the camper regardless of whether it is hooked up or not.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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07-11-2012, 05:22 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvansteenburg
I have a 2011 Tracer Executive 3150 BHD, and while coming home from camp, my rear axle cracked, and the wheel bearings fried (not sure which order). However, the dealer doing the axle replacement noticed that the original axles are stamped for 4400lbs GVWR, but the trailer is stamped (on the side) for over 9000lbs GVWR. If I am doing my math right, does this mean that the trailer has a "real" GVWR of 8800lbs? How does a weight distrubition hitch affect this? Since they are going to have to replace the axle, should I insist that they install a 5000lbs axle (or at least 4600lbs or 4700lbs) axle instead "original" 4400lbs axle?
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Lastly, as I found out myself, back in January when I had my hub problems, that the hubs are the EXACT same hubs used in a 3500lbs rated application.. Did not give me the warm and fuzzy feeling.... And I have a LaCrosse 318..
One day, I will replace the axles with something more substantial...
John
__________________
2011 Primetime LaCrosse 318BHS Touring Ed
Joined the PT family on 10/2010
2006 Chevrolet 2500HD 4x4 T/V
John
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07-11-2012, 10:17 AM
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#29
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Commercial Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 580
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fox - I get why you would not have warm/fuzzies given the info you know. Maybe this will help (and maybe not). This is straight from an engineer at Lippert:
"In the evaluation of up-rating the 3500# axle to 4400# we discovcered we needed to only change the axle tube and leaf spring to a heavier version. The remaining components; spindle, brake, hub, bearing set etc have more than sufficient strength and performance to handle the 4400# axle loads and meet our minimum safety margins. The brakes meet CSA D313 braking standards along with the hubs. The bearing set we have calculated the expected life assuming proper maintenancce is done and it exceeds 50,000 miles. The published bearing ratings still exceed the rated axle capacity."
Apparently, the way it's spelled out in their parts catalog does cause questions with consumers and they acknowledged the need to create a separate SKU for 3500# and 4400# axle hub assemblies (even though it's technically the same part) to eliminate the concern. It doesn't make it right, but it appears it's been this way since they introduced a 4400# axle.
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07-11-2012, 10:20 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RV Guy
fox - I get why you would not have warm/fuzzies given the info you know. Maybe this will help (and maybe not). This is straight from an engineer at Lippert:
"In the evaluation of up-rating the 3500# axle to 4400# we discovcered we needed to only change the axle tube and leaf spring to a heavier version. The remaining components; spindle, brake, hub, bearing set etc have more than sufficient strength and performance to handle the 4400# axle loads and meet our minimum safety margins. The brakes meet CSA D313 braking standards along with the hubs. The bearing set we have calculated the expected life assuming proper maintenancce is done and it exceeds 50,000 miles. The published bearing ratings still exceed the rated axle capacity."
Apparently, the way it's spelled out in their parts catalog does cause questions with consumers and they acknowledged the need to create a separate SKU for 3500# and 4400# axle hub assemblies (even though it's technically the same part) to eliminate the concern. It doesn't make it right, but it appears it's been this way since they introduced a 4400# axle.
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Thank you.
This is the information that is hard to get from anyone... I do actually "feel" better about it, knowing the details.
I sincerely appreciate it.
Thanks.
John
__________________
2011 Primetime LaCrosse 318BHS Touring Ed
Joined the PT family on 10/2010
2006 Chevrolet 2500HD 4x4 T/V
John
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