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Old 08-13-2019, 10:47 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hclarkx View Post
Our furnace is opposite the stairs so has a return grille in the bulkhead opposite the stairs. Between that inlet grille and the stairs is a recess that originally contained an "LED electric fireplace." We mostly dry camp so the fireplace went into storage. The furnace plenum is nearly behind the rear panel of that recess. I cut off the two mylar ducts that were going through the floor and removed the one going to the upstairs hallway (outlet in the bathroom is sufficient for the upstairs). I then fashioned three mylar ducts from about 3' long to 5' long and connected them with foil duct tape to three 10" long pieces of plastic drain pipe that protrude through that rear panel where the fireplace was. The duct up to the bathroom floor above remains. The warm air from these three outlets shoots back toward the rear kitchen and distributes nicely about the living room and kitchen.

Let me know if some photos would be helpful.
Our furnace is opposite the stairs so has a return grille in the bulkhead opposite the stairs. Between that inlet grille and the stairs is a recess that originally contained an "LED electric fireplace." We mostly dry camp so the fireplace went into storage. The furnace plenum is nearly behind the rear panel of that recess. I cut off the two mylar ducts that were going through the floor and removed the one going to the upstairs hallway (outlet in the bathroom is sufficient for the upstairs). I then fashioned three mylar ducts from about 3' long to 5' long and connected them with foil duct tape to three 10" long pieces of plastic drain pipe that protrude through that rear panel where the fireplace was. The duct up to the bathroom floor above remains. The warm air from these three outlets shoots back toward the rear kitchen and distributes nicely about the living room and kitchen.

Let me know if some photos would be helpful.

Thank you for the explanation.if it's not to much trouble I would like to see some pictures. I am going to reroute some heat runs.
Thank again
Steve
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Old 08-17-2019, 09:35 AM   #62
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Colorado
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Originally Posted by nailzscott View Post
Recently I went camping in the exact same spot as a year ago when I was very disappointed in the AC capability. This year though, I had purchased a 4'x8' roll of Reflectix (BP48010) from Amazon (around $25).

I cut the Reflectix to size for the rear and back side slide windows - which were all facing the sun at various times of the day. Although I don't like coverings on the windows all the time, I did find that we had no issue this year with staying cool. Outside temps ranged 80 to 85 during the day, but the camper stated at 72.

So I am still very disappointed in a new - supposedly well insulated RV that won't keep cool without a second AC or the actions have I stated above. Forest River & Prime Time are selling false expectations and should either include the 2nd AC or tell customers that truth that their RV will not stay adequately cool unless other actions are taken - like creating a dungeon atmosphere in your RV with shades and sun blocks.
We do the same thing with our windows and it helps tremendously both with heat, and AC. Remember, unless you spend a fortune your windows are single pane, and even though the manufacturer would like you to believe the units are super insulated, they have many air infiltration areas such as slides and lower compartments, etc. Adding an AC in a hot climate makes sense, but we live in Colorado and we rarely use AC. Works adequetly enough to get by in Texas.
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Old 08-17-2019, 10:49 AM   #63
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Location: Dayton Ohio
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We are currently in really bad situation. Houston, in a newer rv park. No trees,and lots of concrete.

The temps have been over 100 for a week.

Our fiver is a Cedar Creek Hathaway, 34RE. Better than average insulation. Two Dometic 15,000 btu ac units. 37’ fiver.

If the temp does not exceed 100 the unit can maintain 78 degrees. At above 100, for the last week, the ac temps rise to 80 in the late afternoon.

I would advise anyone who buys an rv in most of the US to take any ac options available.

Trailers are hard to cool. On our unit the second ac was optional.

Last summer we went out west. We used our second ac two or three days. Could have done without except one day in Kansas at over 100 degrees.

This year we are doing new grand baby duty in Houston. Not having the second ac, which was under $1000 would be ugly for a month or two.

There are a lot of good things that help as noted here

I guess the question is do you camp or Glamp.

My camping days were over 20 years ago.
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Old 08-17-2019, 10:59 AM   #64
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nailzscott View Post
I just did some testing on the coach - since it won't get below 78 inside when it's 90 outside. I used a laser pointing thermal temperature gauge to point toward various places around the coach. Since it was only a 76 degree day outside, I did not expect to see much of a problem. What I found was that the coach's inside wall of the sun facing side had temperatures of around 104 degrees. Inside of a cabinet on that side's slide, the inside surface temperature was 118 degrees. This Crusader 297 RSK is supposed to have the "Extreme Thermal Package.


If it ever gets back to 90 degrees and sunny, I'm going to do the test again - but it's no wonder the AC doesn't get it cool on hot days.



Anyone else ever done any wall temperature testing?


Thanks
FYI. AC = Electricity
A/C = Air conditioning. Helps with these words in the title.
"Extreme Thermal Package" means they installed colaplast under the
frame. Nothing more. It's under my Keystone Sprinter.
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