Crusader questions

[chunker21]

I have to return it to the storage lot tomorrow and still have it at home. Went out and turned pump on without hose connected and it was leaking some. Stood to the side and wiggled the plunger and yes it sprays but after some adjustment, it quit leaking.

Now to find the offending valve but that'll have to wait. Credit Union wants me to take it back. No problem with that and I'll find other projects. Meanwhile if someone is familiar with the plumbing flow I'd like the help. I figure PR or FR is useless for real info. It's not like they really know how it's plumbed. The trailer does have most of the original owner's manuals and booklets but the PT book is for any and all trailers and MAY have this or that. But I expected that.

Question though, when I pulled back the panel covering the back of the wet bay there was a valve off the pump with a short length of hose that went nowhere, just dangling in the back of the area. It appeared to be a drain of some sort but opening it would pour a bunch of water onto the plywood shelf. Plywood and water don't mix. I didn't see any hole where it could be vented overboard.

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by chunker21

I have to return it to the storage lot tomorrow and still have it at home. Went out and turned pump on without hose connected and it was leaking some. Stood to the side and wiggled the plunger and yes it sprays but after some adjustment, it quit leaking.

Now to find the offending valve but that'll have to wait. Credit Union wants me to take it back. No problem with that and I'll find other projects. Meanwhile if someone is familiar with the plumbing flow I'd like the help. I figure PR or FR is useless for real info. It's not like they really know how it's plumbed. The trailer does have most of the original owner's manuals and booklets but the PT book is for any and all trailers and MAY have this or that. But I expected that.

That may have fixed it! If you have the gumption to go back out, hook up a hose and see if it works now.......that little wiggle may have just unjammed it.

[chunker21]

Maybe in the morning. Please check my edit to the last post with a question.

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by chunker21

Maybe in the morning. Please check my edit to the last post with a question.

Sounds like that may be your siphon hose & valve for sucking RV antifreeze through the pump and out through the plumbing while winterizing.

Just stick the hose into a gallon of RV antifreeze and turn on the pump.

[chunker21]

Makes sense, thanks. I usually just blow out the lines since we normally don't have real serious winter here.

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by chunker21

Makes sense, thanks. I usually just blow out the lines since we normally don't have real serious winter here.

[chunker21]

Question about lighting and switches. When you enter the door, on the wall to the right next to the TV is a slide switch, awning switch and 3 switches. One works some of the overhead lights, 2 don't do anything we can figure. The amber patio light doesn't work nor does the large security light. Didn't get a chance to check those bulbs but I suspect they might be the inop switches.

One disappointment is the living area vent is unpowered and has no wires in the opening. Was hoping to put a maxi type fan in there. No wall switch for it anyway. Half bath vent fan really high, or maybe we are really short. Gonna have to make an extension pole to open the vent and turn fan on. Main bath we can reach. Bunk room vent also has high ceiling but didn't get the chance to remove the shroud to see if there are wires in it. No wall switch but at least with the "pole" we could vent the room.

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by chunker21

Question about lighting and switches. When you enter the door, on the wall to the right next to the TV is a slide switch, awning switch and 3 switches. One works some of the overhead lights, 2 don't do anything we can figure. The amber patio light doesn't work nor does the large security light. Didn't get a chance to check those bulbs but I suspect they might be the inop switches.

One disappointment is the living area vent is unpowered and has no wires in the opening. Was hoping to put a maxi type fan in there. No wall switch for it anyway. Half bath vent fan really high, or maybe we are really short. Gonna have to make an extension pole to open the vent and turn fan on. Main bath we can reach. Bunk room vent also has high ceiling but didn't get the chance to remove the shroud to see if there are wires in it. No wall switch but at least with the "pole" we could vent the room.

Could be a blown fuse. Since both "scare" lights & porch light don't work, I would tend to not believe all 3 bulbs are blown.

[chunker21]

racer5 I wonder if you know the sewer setup. The specs I can find shown on RVUSA and older Prime Time literature say the trailer has 1 fresh, 1 black and 1 grey tank. This model has the bath and half and is very similar to the 360BHQ in layout, just one foot length difference. The sewer/slinky connection is aft of the wet bay and forward of the wheels. Drain valves are located close by. Simple enough but there are 2 other pull "T" knobs similar to a waste drains aft along the frame rail under the slides and in a very awkward position to access. One thing I didn't fiddle with was the tank drains when I did my "PDI".

Unfortunately the trailer is put away back at the storage lot and I can't check things out for a while. The literature also says 2 radios but we can't find but one, in the forward BR.

Interesting observation when I was inspecting the roof the TPO material was in good flexible condition typically darkened and spotted from not being washed in a while but the air conditioner shroud was bright white, clean. Also no markings as to brand/size. When I get it back I'll pull the shroud and see what brand, size and how old. Odd that a bank repo would have a new air but I'm not complaining.

I pulled the inside trim on the forward bedroom vent and the vent is prewired for a second air. The air conditioner ducting runs right along side the vent opening. I wonder if that could be an access point in order to duct the second air. I was planning to install the second air myself since it's a piece of cake to do so, just a bit heavy, but if it could be ducted that might justify a trip to a shop. I'll see if I can find a service rep at Prime Time that can answer that question. Otherwise I'll find the quietest 13.5K unit for that location. I know quiet and RV air conditioners don't exist. Sometimes a hearing problem is a benefit.

Girlfriend want to remove the existing dining booth and sleeper sofa and replace with sectional sofas/recliners and we'd eat on trays. Her trailer so her decision, so hoping the weight difference isn't too much. I imagine the current sleeper sofa isn't light. I'll suggest we store the old stuff for when she sells.

Before I returned it I did go out and hook up the hose to the city water connection. I relieved all pump pressure first and still no water goes in except a trickle. I'll pull the hose connection and attach directly to a hose without any potential trailer plumbing obstruction and see if the check valve is the culprit. I'll find the bugger.

Light checking will also have to wait a while. Thanks again.

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by chunker21

racer5 I wonder if you know the sewer setup. The specs I can find shown on RVUSA and older Prime Time literature say the trailer has 1 fresh, 1 black and 1 grey tank. This model has the bath and half and is very similar to the 360BHQ in layout, just one foot length difference. The sewer/slinky connection is aft of the wet bay and forward of the wheels. Drain valves are located close by. Simple enough but there are 2 other pull "T" knobs similar to a waste drains aft along the frame rail under the slides and in a very awkward position to access. One thing I didn't fiddle with was the tank drains when I did my "PDI".

Unfortunately the trailer is put away back at the storage lot and I can't check things out for a while. The literature also says 2 radios but we can't find but one, in the forward BR.

Interesting observation when I was inspecting the roof the TPO material was in good flexible condition typically darkened and spotted from not being washed in a while but the air conditioner shroud was bright white, clean. Also no markings as to brand/size. When I get it back I'll pull the shroud and see what brand, size and how old. Odd that a bank repo would have a new air but I'm not complaining.

I pulled the inside trim on the forward bedroom vent and the vent is prewired for a second air. The air conditioner ducting runs right along side the vent opening. I wonder if that could be an access point in order to duct the second air. I was planning to install the second air myself since it's a piece of cake to do so, just a bit heavy, but if it could be ducted that might justify a trip to a shop. I'll see if I can find a service rep at Prime Time that can answer that question. Otherwise I'll find the quietest 13.5K unit for that location. I know quiet and RV air conditioners don't exist. Sometimes a hearing problem is a benefit.

Girlfriend want to remove the existing dining booth and sleeper sofa and replace with sectional sofas/recliners and we'd eat on trays. Her trailer so her decision, so hoping the weight difference isn't too much. I imagine the current sleeper sofa isn't light. I'll suggest we store the old stuff for when she sells.

Before I returned it I did go out and hook up the hose to the city water connection. I relieved all pump pressure first and still no water goes in except a trickle. I'll pull the hose connection and attach directly to a hose without any potential trailer plumbing obstruction and see if the check valve is the culprit. I'll find the bugger.

Light checking will also have to wait a while. Thanks again.

From the "looks" of the floorplan, I almost think it would almost have an extra black tank for the rear bath and the second pull handle aft along the frame rail seems to verify. The "non-2nd bath" models would only have 1 pull handle along the frame rail for the kitchen sink grey tank (the 2nd bath sink drains into the kitchen grey also). The forward pull handles are for the full bath grey & black tanks.

The roof is probably EPDM rubber and sounds like it didn't spend time under any trees or was stored under cover hence, no black spots. A/C is probably Dometic 15k. For the second bedroom A/C, did you notice any "air return duct work" running side to side or only the duct running front to rear. To be able to tie into the existing ducted system there will have to be return ductwork and 2 return vents installed in the ceiling of the bedroom. Otherwise, you already know the wiring is there but it will require a bottom dump A/C and separate thermostat.

When you get it back, I hope you find the source of the water issue. Keep us informed.

[chunker21]

Morning, the rubber roof, yes probably EPDM was some what spotted but not bad. I could see white. I went out and looked at it yesterday and took a picture of the air conditioner shroud. It's a high output Dometic. Had to research pictures before I found it. Perhaps the shroud is new or hopefully the whole unit.

Reference the tanks, other units I looked at and researched had separate waste tanks for the half bath. Some would dump sink and toilet into a single tank and route the waste lines to a common dump. Others would have a separate dump slinky connection in the rear. This has a single dump location but there are 2 other pull Ts along the frame under the slides toward the aft. That would tell me 2 other tanks back there. The moniter panel also has "bath 1" and "bath 2" positions and a test switch. I have no idea if any of the tank level sensors work. Project for when we get it home.

The underbelly is fully enclosed so impossible to see the tank configuration and I have no interest in peeling it back to take a peek. There were a couple of "access panels" where the under belly lining has screw attached panels. Maybe they will allow viewing.

In the forward bedroom, I removed the plastic trim along the vent inside. I could see the air conditioning box type ducting running along the side of the vent opening. There are 2 a/c outlets in the BR, no air returns. LR has 2 returns, quite dirty at this time, and the main unit has no ceiling unit. Been a long time since I installed a roof unit, a few decades, and I don't recall what the lower section looks like, i.e. whether it has ability to go to ducting rather than straight out. Need to talk to a competent shop about that.

The simplest, and cheapest method, is a bottom dump with the controls on the ceiling plate. I know they can be noisy but need to find one that at least controls the noise. Any suggestions. I did read some posts about certain models that are ducted and by blocking the direct return, adding sound absorption material, the noise was significantly reduced. But if I can't duct it a moot point.

The Jensen radio was dead. Research found an old forum post where a Jensen rep said the unit would quit when there was bad battery voltage. Gave the reset procedures. Battery in the trailer is toast so will have to wait to put in a good one to try that.

It'll be a couple weeks before I have the opportunity to start the repairs but I will post my results.

Thanks

[rracer5]

Originally Posted by chunker21

Morning, the rubber roof, yes probably EPDM was some what spotted but not bad. I could see white. I went out and looked at it yesterday and took a picture of the air conditioner shroud. It's a high output Dometic. Had to research pictures before I found it. Perhaps the shroud is new or hopefully the whole unit.

Reference the tanks, other units I looked at and researched had separate waste tanks for the half bath. Some would dump sink and toilet into a single tank and route the waste lines to a common dump. Others would have a separate dump slinky connection in the rear. This has a single dump location but there are 2 other pull Ts along the frame under the slides toward the aft. That would tell me 2 other tanks back there. The moniter panel also has "bath 1" and "bath 2" positions and a test switch. I have no idea if any of the tank level sensors work. Project for when we get it home.

The underbelly is fully enclosed so impossible to see the tank configuration and I have no interest in peeling it back to take a peek. There were a couple of "access panels" where the under belly lining has screw attached panels. Maybe they will allow viewing.

In the forward bedroom, I removed the plastic trim along the vent inside. I could see the air conditioning box type ducting running along the side of the vent opening. There are 2 a/c outlets in the BR, no air returns. LR has 2 returns, quite dirty at this time, and the main unit has no ceiling unit. Been a long time since I installed a roof unit, a few decades, and I don't recall what the lower section looks like, i.e. whether it has ability to go to ducting rather than straight out. Need to talk to a competent shop about that.

The simplest, and cheapest method, is a bottom dump with the controls on the ceiling plate. I know they can be noisy but need to find one that at least controls the noise. Any suggestions. I did read some posts about certain models that are ducted and by blocking the direct return, adding sound absorption material, the noise was significantly reduced. But if I can't duct it a moot point.

The Jensen radio was dead. Research found an old forum post where a Jensen rep said the unit would quit when there was bad battery voltage. Gave the reset procedures. Battery in the trailer is toast so will have to wait to put in a good one to try that.

It'll be a couple weeks before I have the opportunity to start the repairs but I will post my results.

Thanks

[chunker21]

Picked the Crusader up last Wednesday and proceeded to jack it up and get the wheels off. I had previously made ramps for the motorhome, 2x12 stacked and angled to give me safe clearance under the motorhome, made 6. Due to frame height, had to use 4 plus additional pieces of 2x8 and 2x12 so the bottle jack and stands would reach; HINT: break the torque on the lugs before you raise it up. Ordered tires GY endurance from an independent who beat Sam's prices by $50. Disassembled the hubs RR first and it had no EZ lube cap and a broken zerk. Bearing was too tight and bad. Scored, spalding, scratched. Took others apart and all outer bearings were bad, some discolored from heat. Finest chinese machinery crap. Some confusion created by me on bearing numbers and had to order from Advance twice. Grease seals were hard to find locally but got them. Replaced all inner bearing also.

Yesterday Saturday finally got the last of the bearing parts and assembled and installed the hubs. Previous TT bearing I packed I did by hand. Saw some nifty packers so got one, cheap of course. Works half-ass, in that it gets about half packed. Still had to finish hand packing and of course very messy with the process. Packer was 2 cones and shaft with zerk on end to pack.

Ran out of light and will adjust the brakes and reinstall wheels today. The broken brake wire was actually both wires on the LR brake, they're fixed. While waiting on bearing to arrive at store did several other things, replace battery, remove front compartment door and adjust hinge (hammer gently), 2 door hold back clips, lubed suspension shackles, adjusted door lock and strikers.

Water issue, the problem of no water pressure from city water but great from pump, was in fact the inlet check valve. It was missing the spring and retainer which kept the plunger from going all the way in and blocking water flow in from hose. $12-20 part when I get to town.

One question for the group? When I towed it home the running lights didn't work, brake, turn did. Are the trailer lighting wires run through the house circuit breaker/fuse panel or are they straight through? Have 2 house lights that don't work and 12V fuses are not labeled, anyone know a source or where a wiring diagram is? Maybe call PT on Monday. I didn't check my truck to see if the trailer running lights connector is working but it's a fresh plug-n-play install. I'll check it anyway.

Enough for now, inside stuff starts next week which will involve some minor repairs and GF remodeling interior. More to come later. Maybe even pics if I figure out how. Happy rainy day, at least here it is.

[SecretSquirrel]

If you take a 10amp blade style fuse you can warm up the plastic in the middle and bend it a little so it will fit between pins 3 and 4 on your "trailers" 7 way connector you can operator your running and tail lights from the trailer battery. Easy way to see if the problem is there or the truck.

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by SecretSquirrel

If you take a 10amp blade style fuse you can warm up the plastic in the middle and bend it a little so it will fit between pins 3 and 4 on your "trailers" 7 way connector you can operator your running and tail lights from the trailer battery. Easy way to see if the problem is there or the truck.

It's the truck, or at least the add on trailer wiring in bed. Busy with other project but later I'll check the factory plug and see if that one is working. If I can't find a loose connection then I guess it's off to the Ford dealer. 2016 under warranty

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by chunker21

It's the truck, or at least the add on trailer wiring in bed. Busy with other project but later I'll check the factory plug and see if that one is working. If I can't find a loose connection then I guess it's off to the Ford dealer. 2016 under warranty

Place I took it didn't install plug n play wiring and tapped into truck wiring. Won't go there again. They wired it wrong so I fixed it. All wiring good now. The water problem was the inlet check valve. New one installed and works like it should. Brake break-away switch was bad. Ordered and replaced it. That works now too.

Took sofa and booth out of main LR slide and new recliners etc are supposed to be delivered today.

Steps had broken weld and torn metal where the bottom step had a stop. Removed, took to welding shop, touched up the paint and back on solid. Made a spare tire bracket that would fit the 16" 8 lug spare. Soon as paint dries, spare goes on. Refer shelves were somewhat rusty and I was going to replace but at 65-75 EACH decided to refurbish. Wire brush on grinder and just primed them. After primer dries some will use Rustoleum appliance epoxy to finish coat.

Thinking about removing carpet from bunk room and put down sheet vinyl that matches LR. Sara at PT said that pattern is still available but didn't give cost. Unfortunately have to order through a retail dealer. She didn't give me the brand to check around locally.

So the projects continue.

[Brendon37]

Took sofa and booth out of main LR slide and new recliners etc are supposed to be delivered today.

Are you planning on reusing the booth dinette?

[chunker21]

Originally Posted by Brendon37

Took sofa and booth out of main LR slide and new recliners etc are supposed to be delivered today.

Are you planning on reusing the booth dinette?

A PO had broken or cut out the front wall of the washer/dryer compartment exposing front cap and insulation. I repacked additional bats and was planning to store the booth but it didn't come apart intact like I was expecting. So some of the paneling was used to make a patch or cover for the holes in that compartment. I'm saving some more of the paneling pieces for repairs or maybe shelving in the future.

The cushions were taken to the curb with the sofa and also have a new home.

We are waiting on delivery of the recliners/sofa components and then heading out of town in the motorhome this trip. She plans portable slide tables/TV trays for eating since this give more social seating. Personally I would have preferred a couple of swivel rocker recliners (lazyboy type) and a free standing table and chairs but was over ruled.

[Trucking69x]

This is are first RV. We got a 2018 Crusader 340RST.

[ben31]

Congratulations! Good luck and enjoy your RV life!