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Old 04-06-2014, 08:26 PM   #1
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De-Winterizing

De-winterizing my 2014 Lacrosse 327RES today. My dealer did the winterize, so I consulted the owner manual before starting this evolution. Drained the holding tanks and filled the fresh water tank. Turned on the pump and no water flow. The pump was running but was making a much higher pitch sound than normal. Turned off pump and hooked up the "city water connection". Got water flow both hot and cold through all faucets, water flow at toilet too. There is no water in the water heater, even took drain plug out (no water) and still no flow when I try to use the onboard water.

Assume there is a bypass valve(s) somewhere, None identified in any of my books/paperwork. Ideas?
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Old 04-06-2014, 09:40 PM   #2
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Yes there are bypass valves. Usually under a cabinet behind water heater.

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Old 04-06-2014, 09:44 PM   #3
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I'd check beside the water pump. There is a winterizing hose with a valve - end of hose goes into the antifreeze jug. If that valve is open (turned parallel with the hose) the pump will be sucking air. Close it and try the pump again.
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Old 04-06-2014, 10:13 PM   #4
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I'd check beside the water pump. There is a winterizing hose with a valve - end of hose goes into the antifreeze jug. If that valve is open (turned parallel with the hose) the pump will be sucking air. Close it and try the pump again.

I had my camper out this weekend to dewinterize..and had to open the door to the pump to turn the valve previously described
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:17 PM   #5
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De-winterizing my 2014 Lacrosse 327RES today. My dealer did the winterize, so I consulted the owner manual before starting this evolution. Drained the holding tanks and filled the fresh water tank. Turned on the pump and no water flow. The pump was running but was making a much higher pitch sound than normal. Turned off pump and hooked up the "city water connection". Got water flow both hot and cold through all faucets, water flow at toilet too. There is no water in the water heater, even took drain plug out (no water) and still no flow when I try to use the onboard water.

Assume there is a bypass valve(s) somewhere, None identified in any of my books/paperwork. Ideas?

Owners manuals for most RV's are pretty much only good for "generic" info and are the same for several different models.


First locate the water pump (may have to remove an access panel). There should be a short piece of hose (maybe 18 - 24" long) that is used to stick into the gallon of RV antifreeze during winterization. There should be a valve on it. If the dealer left it open, close it (quarter turn, perpendicular to the hose). There should also be a valve on the incoming line to the pump from the fresh water tank (probably goes through the floor nearby), open this valve (it was probably closed by the dealer which is necessary to keep RV antifreeze from going to the fresh water tank during winterization). Now turn on pump. It should run then stop when the pressure builds up. BTW, your pump probably won't run if you have city water hooked up and running.

Now, locate the water heater (again, you may have to remove a panel unless it's in the same location as the water pump). There should be a cold water line going in w/valve (white or blue) and the hot water line coming out w/valve (red) and a line between them w/valve. During winterization, the "in" and "out" valves are closed and the one between them (bypass) is opened.
These valves must be reversed to fill and use the hot water tank (open the "in" and "out" valves and close the "bypass valve).

Go outside to the water heater and replace the drain plug (anode rod in some cases) and turn on the hot water in the sink. The water heater should start filling. Open the relief valve until water "just starts to spit out" then close it. Water should now be running in your sink. Turn on the propane and see if the water heater lights and burns clean (blue flame) then turn it off. Next, flip on the electric side of the water heater (once the tank is full). If you have hot water in 10 - 15 minutes, you are good to go.

Geeez! After looking back, I hope I wasn't too long winded or over detailed.

Now, go have a good time
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Old 04-07-2014, 12:43 PM   #6
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Perfect account-thank you. Just what I needed to know.
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Old 04-07-2014, 05:52 PM   #7
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Thanks to all! I spoke to the dealer today and found out the waterheater bypass valves are behind a panel under the stereo at the rear of the camper. The water pump and winterize hose/valves are behind a panel inside the kitchen cabinet. It is all quite simple once you know where to look. This information should have been part of the new owner walkthrough, in my opinion.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:48 PM   #8
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A good PDI tech should have gone over every appliance and showed you EVERY other function on any new (to you) unit. He should get an idea of your experience and proceed through his presentation accordingly, showing you how everything inside and outside the TT functions. Oh, and he should have "tested" everything before you arrived. IMHO, sounds like 1 of 3 things happened; 1- He didn't care or was new and took too many assumptions that you know, 2- He rushed because he has other work to complete before quittin' time or, 3- He is allotted only a certain amount of time to do his PDI and walk you through it.

Too many times, too many dealers fall into one or all of these catagories, it's sad. It only leads to frustration when after you drag it home then take it out for what you thought was going to be a nice weekend, you keep finding things wrong, broken and/or missing and falling apart necessitating a trip back to the dealer where they'll keep it for weeks on end to fix things that should have been caught (and fixed) before you even got there. And, even if you notice something during your PDI, he should fix it or if it's too involved, make sure it's noted and/or the parts ordered before you leave (and get a copy of what they owe you) (a "We Owe List"). I was given one once our 4 hour PDI was completed on our new 5er.
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:54 PM   #9
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you'll learn way more and get more accurate information on here than from what you get from some no-talent, doesn't get paid enough to care PDI tech
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:03 PM   #10
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you'll learn way more and get more accurate information on here than from what you get from some no-talent, doesn't get paid enough to care PDI tech

You're right, I think we just did that!
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Old 04-07-2014, 08:27 PM   #11
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you'll learn way more and get more accurate information on here than from what you get from some no-talent, doesn't get paid enough to care PDI tech

Yep..this forum has been a lifesaver to me so far..went through this exact same dewinterizing ordeal over the weekend...tech had told me I was good to go...turns out not the case..got quick responses from this forum ...on the positive side..didn't really find any issues with our Flagstaff
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Old 04-08-2014, 05:05 AM   #12
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Agree with all. As a first time buyer, I guess I didn't know all that I didn't know and needed to ask during the PDI. I suppose the dealer assumed they would do the de-winterize since they winterized it. To their credit, a service manager walked me thru the procedure in about 5 minutes on the phone.

The "owners manual" that came with my unit has proven to be of little use since it is so generic. I have gleaned more useful information from the stack of documents from the various component suppliers. Maybe PrimeTime could take note of the owners manuals that come with a car. My truck is very high tech (F150 Platinum) and the owner manual has not let me down, yet.

At the end of the day, I learned several things about my camper and everything worked out. Thanks for the help.
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Old 04-09-2014, 06:07 PM   #13
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One more step I've learned is to leave the water heater bypassed until you run some fresh water through the system so you don't get any antifreeze in the water heater.
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Old 04-11-2014, 04:49 PM   #14
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One more step I've learned is to leave the water heater bypassed until you run some fresh water through the system so you don't get any antifreeze in the water heater.
I did that accidentally while filling my system and flushing it out, first time user here. I heard water and walked around back to see it open.

My only question is what is the simple process to fill the hot water tank and get it running? Do I just hit the switch inside the trailer and run the water for a bit? Wait 15 minutes and check it?
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Old 04-11-2014, 05:19 PM   #15
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I did that accidentally while filling my system and flushing it out, first time user here. I heard water and walked around back to see it open.

My only question is what is the simple process to fill the hot water tank and get it running? Do I just hit the switch inside the trailer and run the water for a bit? Wait 15 minutes and check it?
Install the drain plug or anode rod.

Open the pressure relief valve and fill with water till it comes out the relief valve to purge the air out before you turn it on.
(you may want to get rid of the air in the pipes as well at this time)

After the air is cleared and water runs smooth shut off the faucet and fire it up.
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:32 PM   #16
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I'm about to go through this process soon, this is some great info. I'm a first timer and my PDI was like 20 minutes when I picked it up last year.
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