Leveling side to side

[Rigpdx]

Originally Posted by CMSgt (Ret) Charlie Brown

We have a 330 MKS with the 4 point leveling system. But someone has shared on this topic that the rear jacks are not for leveling but for stabilizing only. They are not really load bearing since they are right behind the tires.


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My understanding is it is for leveling, and that is what we use it for. It took us a few time on un-even ground to get the hang of it, but we think we have it now. I'm going to start trying to figure out the correlation between the 'degrees out' the panel info provides, and the number of holes to use.

[jeff64]

I have the hopkins graduated levels on the front or back of the tt to know the side to side height and use a couple sets of the lynx blocks. I know that when both slides are out on the left side, the weight pulls the TT down about an inch or one lynx block. Therefore I always level out before the sides go out 1" high on the left with the blocks and adjust the l to R stabilizer jack in the order to achieve that offset before the slides go out. That seems to pull it pretty much back to level when all is said and done.

2016 Flagstaff Super V 27VRL
2014 GMC 2500HD CC, 4x4, 6.0, 4.10
Equalizer 14K

[Dave Lyon]

Originally Posted by aceinspp

I just use two 2x8 boards 4 ft long. Most of the time it only takes one to level. I avoid sites that are really un level. Later RJD

X2, and I use Lynx levellers on the 2 x 8's, if required.

[DKRITTER]

It depends; we keep both yellow blocks and Andersen Levelers.

If we are almost level we just use the blocks but not more than 1. If it is more than that we get the Andersens out and they are simple to use. We also put a yellow block at all the stabilizer points.

We also use the ONEstep wheel chocks to secure the trailer.

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by Rigpdx

My understanding is it is for leveling, and that is what we use it for. It took us a few time on un-even ground to get the hang of it, but we think we have it now. I'm going to start trying to figure out the correlation between the 'degrees out' the panel info provides, and the number of holes to use.

If you post a photo of them we can tell you what you have. My 5th wheel has jacks in the rear and the owners manual states they are for stabilizing only.

Jim

[Rigpdx]

Originally Posted by oldtool2

If you post a photo of them we can tell you what you have. My 5th wheel has jacks in the rear and the owners manual states they are for stabilizing only.

Jim

I have the Lippert Ground Control Leveling System. It is designed to level the 5th wheel unit. It may be different than the one the original poster has... I believe 2014 was the first year they started putting them in the Crusader...the original poster said he has a Crusader, hence I assumed he had the same system...and I offered my experience. I have no need for bubble levels, etc, as the trailer levels itself.

[wicked1]

I used to use wood and red blocks but got to be a pain to carry and they were heavy, so I use these exclusively as you can also drive up on them, also much lighter to carry





2014 F150 FX4 Crew 4X4 EB
2015 Roo 23IKSS

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[C. Brown]

Originally Posted by Rigpdx

I have the Lippert Ground Control Leveling System. It is designed to level the 5th wheel unit. It may be different than the one the original poster has... I believe 2014 was the first year they started putting them in the Crusader...the original poster said he has a Crusader, hence I assumed he had the same system...and I offered my experience. I have no need for bubble levels, etc, as the trailer levels itself.

I too have the Lippert but my original question was how to adjust front legs if site slopes from side to side. Do you put the legs lower on high side or lower on low side? One responder said to make sure the front legs hit the ground at same time even if you have to put "spacers" on low side.


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[C. Brown]

Originally Posted by Rigpdx

My understanding is it is for leveling, and that is what we use it for. It took us a few time on un-even ground to get the hang of it, but we think we have it now. I'm going to start trying to figure out the correlation between the 'degrees out' the panel info provides, and the number of holes to use.

Let me know when you figure the correlation. We have been traveling since Memorial Day, 16 campgrounds, and the one we are in now is the worst as we are on a side hill slope. Hence the question concerning front legs.


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[Rigpdx]

Originally Posted by CMSgt (Ret) Charlie Brown

I too have the Lippert but my original question was how to adjust front legs if site slopes from side to side. Do you put the legs lower on high side or lower on low side? One responder said to make sure the front legs hit the ground at same time even if you have to put "spacers" on low side.


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So...my answer is 'yes, put the legs higher on the low side (or lower on the high side) in an effort to have them hit at the same time'. that is a good way to approach it. Believe me, I understand the difficulty in getting this right! We do have several 1/2 - 1 1/2 inch thick 12"x12" plywood platforms we use on all four corners as a base. On a flat surface, we usually use 9 or 10 holes at the front, and four at the back. If the pad is unlevel, we adjust the holes as the jacks are lowering.

Keep sharing as you learn more. Some day I'd like to intentionally find a more unlevel surface and practice different variations.

[Rigpdx]

Originally Posted by CMSgt (Ret) Charlie Brown

Let me know when you figure the correlation. We have been traveling since Memorial Day, 16 campgrounds, and the one we are in now is the worst as we are on a side hill slope. Hence the question concerning front legs.


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Did you end up using boards or leveling blocks under the tires?

Maybe before you head out experiment a little bit with just the levelers.

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by Rigpdx

Did you end up using boards or leveling blocks under the tires?

Maybe before you head out experiment a little bit with just the levelers.

When you raise your trailer so that your kingpin can slide out of your hitch, drive your truck away and go back and look at your wheels. If they are off the ground at all put blocks under them and then lower year trailer to level it. You never want your wheels off the ground when the trailer is level.

Jim D

[C. Brown]

Originally Posted by Rigpdx

Did you end up using boards or leveling blocks under the tires?

Maybe before you head out experiment a little bit with just the levelers.

We have a pair of plastic wedges. We drive on/back on until level side to side.


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[Tom48]

hitting it one axle at a time? Isn't that hard on the axles I think I saw that picture that looked like squeezing the axles together up on opposing chalks. Just asking cause somehow in the life out our TT, before we got it I hope, an axle was tweaked and had to have it straightened. Oh another story for another day but not easy to fix.

[C. Brown]

Originally Posted by Tom48

hitting it one axle at a time? Isn't that hard on the axles I think I saw that picture that looked like squeezing the axles together up on opposing chalks. Just asking cause somehow in the life out our TT, before we got it I hope, an axle was tweaked and had to have it straightened. Oh another story for another day but not easy to fix.

We place the wedges as shown. Almost like Anderson Levelers.


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[Tom48]

Neat

[youroo]

Originally Posted by CMSgt (Ret) Charlie Brown

We place the wedges as shown. Almost like Anderson Levelers.Attachment 83000Attachment 83000


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Looks to me you are at the LIMIT! Youroo!!

[Rigpdx]

Originally Posted by CMSgt (Ret) Charlie Brown

We have a pair of plastic wedges. We drive on/back on until level side to side.


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So if you can spare a bit of time before you leave this uneven site, remove the wedges, then go through your drop and level sequence again. Try keeping the high side # of pin holes low and the low side # of pin holes high. I'm interested to see if you can get it to work.

I must say, this must be a very uneven site... I have been on some not great ones, and have never had to use anything under the tires to level side to side. It took us a while of standing and staring and re-trying, but once we got our base understanding of where to set things when on level, we made adjustments based on that.

btw...I'm going out camping this weekend and you are getting me curious enough to find uneven ground before we even get to the campground to try this out!! lol

[C. Brown]

Originally Posted by youroo

Looks to me you are at the LIMIT! Youroo!!

Yes. But if needed, we can add lego blocks underneath wedges.


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[C. Brown]

Originally Posted by Rigpdx

So if you can spare a bit of time before you leave this uneven site, remove the wedges, then go through your drop and level sequence again. Try keeping the high side # of pin holes low and the low side # of pin holes high. I'm interested to see if you can get it to work.

I must say, this must be a very uneven site... I have been on some not great ones, and have never had to use anything under the tires to level side to side. It took us a while of standing and staring and re-trying, but once we got our base understanding of where to set things when on level, we made adjustments based on that.

btw...I'm going out camping this weekend and you are getting me curious enough to find uneven ground before we even get to the campground to try this out!! lol

We do not leave here until Monday and it is tight where we are. It is hard to block the street to experiment. I too am curious to see if adjusting holes will adjust high/low sides.


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