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Old 06-03-2014, 10:46 AM   #321
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Is that solution not rubbing into the carpet and/or lino in the kitchen?
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Old 06-03-2014, 02:28 PM   #322
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Irishrv,keep us posted on that fix. If you look at post#89 thats what I was going to do with mine if the fabric gets any worse(only slight scuffing for now) on our unit,how thick are they? I was going to use 3/32 materiel! Thanks Keepaeyeonit
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Old 06-03-2014, 03:41 PM   #323
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Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) Polyethylene

irishrv
We use this stuff at work and its real tough! I had thought about this as a option as well but hesitated in doing so. I came so close to using this stuff! Here at work , it does wear some but so does everything else around it.

Ultra High Molecular Weight (UHMW) Polyethylene sheet has exceptionally high abrasion and impact resistance properties. It will outwear all other materials, including metals, nylons, urethanes, and fluoroplastics. In corrosion resistance, it has the same qualities of other polyethylenes. The working temp range is from -60 to 200 deg F. Because it resists wear, friction and corrosion, it cuts maintenance costs, energy consumption, and extends equipment life. Its properties include: low coefficient of friction, self-lubrication, non-adherent surface, FDA and USDA concurrence for contact with foods, drugs, etc. Use mechanical fasteners in construction.

My only concern with the uhmw is that it may be tougher then the wear bar???. I would hone/chamfer the corners on the uhmw and keep a close eye on things. Like screw heads, seals and wear bar abrasion.

Do keep us posted please on how it works out.
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:02 PM   #324
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Tech said he has applied this fix on many brands and never a comeback. No contact with flooring or carpet but he did adjust the slides. Apparently the lippert factory wear bar for the slide is made of the same material. Found it on line at lippert store.
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Old 06-03-2014, 05:08 PM   #325
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http://store.lci1.com/uhmw-wear-bar--10-p1474.aspx
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Old 06-05-2014, 08:12 PM   #326
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irishrv,
My Crusader is in the shop and PT will not alter the design to fix the problem. I will likely do the same mod after they repair the Darco tape. What thickness is the UHMW plastic? I was thinking 3/16" will work and using glue or lock-tite on the screwed to prevent them from backing out. I was also considering covering the entire bottom; a little pricey, but maybe worth the expense. elastics.com sells the UHMW and a self adhesive thin version called Slick Strips.
Thanks for the info and the pics.
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Old 06-05-2014, 09:42 PM   #327
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I'm not sure about thickness. I'd guess 3/16. I'm not advising anyone do this as I wouldn't have because of the slide adjustment involved. The tech had both slides out for the install. I'm saying my dealer and a VERY SMART tech made this work for me.
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Old 06-12-2014, 05:26 PM   #328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Platokidd View Post
Only a item number.
90m18891a
I received my 2nd set of strips today. They look the same as the 1st set but they have a different item number. 10F16032A

At this point I don't see any difference..yet anyway. Im going camping this weekend so I will look closer then.
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Old 07-08-2014, 07:56 AM   #329
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Just wondering how is everyone else doing with there slide wear remedy / issue??
The strips on my unit seem to be working well so far.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:19 AM   #330
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Uhmw working well.


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Old 07-08-2014, 08:36 AM   #331
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Had my repair guy put 4 inch Sr tips of aluminum on both sides and no issues. Too bad PT can't fix issue. My guy had it done in one day.
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Old 07-08-2014, 08:56 AM   #332
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My rig is scheduled to go back to PT this week and this issue is one of the ones on the list. I wonder what they will do about it.
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Old 07-08-2014, 03:31 PM   #333
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Quote:
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Had my repair guy put 4 inch Sr tips of aluminum on both sides and no issues. Too bad PT can't fix issue. My guy had it done in one day.
Curious how the aluminum was fastened??
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:05 PM   #334
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I believe that he lifted slide and bent the strips to go up the side where the white portion is then screwed it up also folded the end inside up and screwed. No issues since he did the fix. He told me this is the way he would have done it on his, but this is not how FR is fixing. Hope pic shows up.
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Old 07-08-2014, 06:21 PM   #335
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I love that. Makes me want to take the plastic ones off and do it that way.


Sent by ME
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Old 07-12-2014, 05:20 PM   #336
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Mostly just jumping in here as a subscriber as we will be picking up our '14 325RES on July 18th

Currently we have a Glendale Titanium that had somewhat the same issue with the BAL bedroom slide. The rollers were in many cases totally destroying the bottom surface which is some sort of 'plastic'. Several of us jumped the gun and did our own repair using .125 aluminum sheet countersunk screwed and siliconed to the bottom. The 'official' repair was a full size piece, but that amount really wasn't needed. Possibly a thinner and harder grade aluminum could have been used. I did ours in 2009 and as late as a couple hours ago, looked just fine with some expected minor scuffs. There have been no leaks though the slide was raised by that .125. Others did have a little slide to frame clearance problem, but suspect they used thicker plate.
This is what it looks like:



Layout for drilling:



I jacked the slide up about a quarter inch to slip the material in place.



This may be an alternative for some folks to consider over the Majestic plastic pieces
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Old 07-13-2014, 10:33 PM   #337
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All of the the repair systems for the torn Darco fabric look good: the plastic shields, UHMW polyethylene sheet, and now aluminum sheet. After 8 weeks of complaining to deaf ears at PT, I have just completed another method. I was able to jack up the slideout about 3/4" and install 3" wide x 1/32" thick Slick Strips (sold by elastics.com). Easy to install with peal-and-stick adhesive and then silicone the side edges, just under the side trim. Since these are relatively thin, no adjustment to the slideout is needed. I put about 24" wide section at each end and then about a 30" wide section under the frig. Slides smooth and easy, since the strips are UHMW polyethylene, same stuff as the slide bar.

We are lucky that we discovered this problem before the floor got wet and rotted out. There are thousands of owners who will not realize the problem until they need thousands $$ of repairs. Has anyone thought about a class action lawsuit. This could be really big, with thousands of rigs affected. Does anyone know a lawyer willing to take this on?
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Old 07-14-2014, 04:45 AM   #338
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LynnDiesel View Post
All of the the repair systems for the torn Darco fabric look good: the plastic shields, UHMW polyethylene sheet, and now aluminum sheet. After 8 weeks of complaining to deaf ears at PT, I have just completed another method. I was able to jack up the slideout about 3/4" and install 3" wide x 1/32" thick Slick Strips (sold by elastics.com). Easy to install with peal-and-stick adhesive and then silicone the side edges, just under the side trim. Since these are relatively thin, no adjustment to the slideout is needed. I put about 24" wide section at each end and then about a 30" wide section under the frig. Slides smooth and easy, since the strips are UHMW polyethylene, same stuff as the slide bar.

We are lucky that we discovered this problem before the floor got wet and rotted out. There are thousands of owners who will not realize the problem until they need thousands $$ of repairs. Has anyone thought about a class action lawsuit. This could be really big, with thousands of rigs affected. Does anyone know a lawyer willing to take this on?
Looks good!

How did you go about jacking your slide?
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Old 07-14-2014, 07:58 PM   #339
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how I jacked up the slide out

Just make a Tee from 2x4's. Put the slideout all the way out, then retract about 1" so that the inside gaskets are not squished. Check for internal ceiling clearance as I had to remove a piece of trim. The cross bar (of the tee) goes under the slide floor (perpendicular to the length of the RV) and the stem on top of a bottle jack. I jacked up one end (about 4" from the end), placed a strip at the end, then placed a 3/4" wooden shim on the slide bar to hold the floor up. Move the jack and T to the other side and repeat. Move the jack and tee to the center and jack up 3/4" and apply the slick strips where the heaviest appliance is located. Use 3/4" wooden blocks to hold the floor up. I used masking tape to hold the rubber seals out of the way. Be careful not to jack up too much. You can feel the jack pressure go up when the slide out hits the upper wall opening; but in the center the floor will flex, so be careful and only jack up enough to place the block on the slide bar. Remove any blocks from the center before removing the blocks from the ends, because the ends support the most weight.
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Old 07-14-2014, 08:21 PM   #340
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[QUOTE=LynnDiesel;658416...... on top of a bottle jack............[/QUOTE]

Consider using a scissors jack instead of a hydraulic. When I did the BR slide on our Titanium, I started with a bottle jack, but I didn't have any 'feel' for movement so dug out my ancient 2 speed Craftsman scissor jack and used that instead. Also, they don't leak down at the worst possible time.
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