17FQ Modifications

[Homersimpson]

On our last trip, DW noted the slow recovery of the Dometic refer compared to our previous Norcold refer. It approached 40 degrees F lower than the outside, but that is of little comfort when the afternoon reaches 90F and she is worried about the milk and eggs. I recognize my share of blame for screening the sidewall vents to keep out the insects, so I bought a Valterra vent fan to remove excess heat. When I opened the vents to determine a fan mounting location, I noticed that the countertop was unprotected from the accumulated refer heat. Before installing the fan, I will insulate under the countertop.

I also just installed an Atwood Robofoot on the tongue jack to reduce my cranking. Not as effective as a motorized jack, but on sale for $30, Robofoot costs $100-200 less. And it made me smile when it flipped up the first time.

[BC.campr]

Hey Homersimpson,
We just went thru the same thing with fridge temps being much too high to keep food from spoiling. Even overnight it wouldn't recover in cooler 20C temps and bring internal temp into the desired temp range. I did some mods and after a week of use under verying conditions can confidently say that even in 32-36C (like 90-96F) outside temps fridge will now maintain 5C (41F) worse case and have seen 1-2C in the cooler evenings.
Not worried about not having cold beer any more...lol.
Let me know if you want me to post the mods, depending on how you make out.
BC...

[Homersimpson]

BC, you have my attention. What worked for you? Is yours a Dometic or Norcold?

[BC.campr]

It is a Dometic RM2351 from what I can tell.

[BC.campr]

Four main things that worked for me, here are the first 3 in this post.

1) added onto existing heat deflector to better channel rising heat from entering space above fridge cabinet and causing heat build up.

2) added some more pink insulation around the back of the fridge area (sides and top) to help separate the heat from entering fridge cabinet cavity. Didn't go as far as insulating entire space just the opening around the back.

3) added temp controlled external fan, to help move air on the 30C+ days across the condenser at the back of the fridge. It only turns on when condenser pipe rises above 130F. It only comes on if the fridge is on and outside air temp is getting up to the 30C or 85F area. Cycles on and off depending on heat.

Try to explain each pic best as possible...

[BC.campr]

The last I think is one of the biggest helps to keeping the temp stable. Using a programmable temp control board (W1209 off eBay for $5) added an internal fan to move air when the temp is above 6C. This is wired in thru them Main fridge power switch, fridge off...control and internal fan off.
These are the external hook ups, next post is the internal fridge mounts and wires.

I think all of the mods help, the internal fan is great because it really reduces recovery time after you open the fridge. The current temp is displayed on the controller so you can easily look thru the vents when you stop to refuel and check the internal fridge temp. I can barely hear the internal fan, can't hear the external fan unless outside of the side of the trailer. Both fans are nothing specially, the external is a ball bearing fan from a PC power supply. The internal is just a sleeve bearing fan, pulled out of something I disassembled...lol.

[BC.campr]

So last of the fridge posts...

Here is the internal mounting of the fan and how I ran the sensor from the control board and mounted it all to the inside of the fridge. Hope this helps, I wasn't sure if all of this was going to help or not...but it definitely does. The DW is as happy with this as all the rest of the mods put together...happy wife, happy life...lol.
BC...

[Homersimpson]

BC, your documentation of this project is superb. Thank you for all the info. Now let's see how much of it I can repeat.

And you ended with the wisest statement: "happy wife/happy life".

[BC.campr]

You are very welcome Homer, I hope it works on your trailer as well as it has on ours.
I just looked up the robofoot, what a great idea! There is just so much stuff out there I didn't know I needed yet...lol
Cheers...

[Ky-N]

Kinda late to this but on ours it would work good at night on AC but on gas it would not keep anything cold much less cool. After several repair centers and no joy, everyone of them said it was with in spec, I found the gas regulator was defective. Since I replaced it we have had no trouble keeping it cold in the frig. Of course I did also insulate the box and install fans and baffles to move the hot air from the back and that had to help.

[BC.campr]

Good catch on the reg, not an easy troubleshoot/find I wouldn't think?
I'm sure the extra work you did made a huge difference, turns it from marginal in the heat to something you can rely on to keep the suds cold...lol, and the cheese and eggs and other stuff too I guess.

[WNY_Clipper]

Purchased a cooktop cover and a Stromberg Carlson Extend-A-Shower Expanding Shower Rod. Hoping install both today.

For those who have already installed the Expanding shower rod, is there anything special I should know? Is there solid blocking where the old rod is installed, so all I will need to do is just mount the new brackets?

[WNY_Clipper]

Our Clipper
"Home Away From Home"

[Fluffywhitedogs]

Originally Posted by WNY_Clipper

Purchased a cooktop cover and a Stromberg Carlson Extend-A-Shower Expanding Shower Rod. Hoping install both today.



For those who have already installed the Expanding shower rod, is there anything special I should know? Is there solid blocking where the old rod is installed, so all I will need to do is just mount the new brackets?

On my 17bh, there WAS solid backing. I put in clear caulking and then re-used one hole, and filled the other in with caulking. You're gonna LOVE it!

[WNY_Clipper]

Originally Posted by Fluffywhitedogs

On my 17bh, there WAS solid backing. I put in clear caulking and then re-used one hole, and filled the other in with caulking. You're gonna LOVE it!

Follow-Up: There was no backing for the shower rod. All screws just went into the paneling itself on my 17FQ. I installed the top screw higher so it would bite into the top plate of the wall and used wall plugs for the bottom screws.

I can't wait to take a shower now in it!

[WNY_Clipper]

Here's pictures of the new stovetop cover and the new shower rod installed.

[WNY_Clipper]

I also had someone mess with my power jack while it was parked in my driveway, so I installed a key switch to kill power to it when it's parked.

[Fluffywhitedogs]

Originally Posted by WNY_Clipper

Here's pictures of the new stovetop cover and the new shower rod installed.

I didn't think I needed a stove cover but that's awesome! Details?

[WNY_Clipper]

Originally Posted by Fluffywhitedogs

I didn't think I needed a stove cover but that's awesome! Details?

We wanted extra countertop space and since we only use out stovetop for morning breakfast, we thought covering it up when not in use would do the trick. I saw this cover installed on an outdoor kitchen on a new Coachman. The one installed on the outdoor kitchen had sides the can block the wind, so since I was installing it indoors, I bought the cheaper version that did not include the sides.

They also sell a full black cover too.

Here is what I purchased:

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/SUBUR...-p/07-0370.htm

[Fluffywhitedogs]

Originally Posted by WNY_Clipper

We wanted extra countertop space and since we only use out stovetop for morning breakfast, we thought covering it up when not in use would do the trick. I saw this cover installed on an outdoor kitchen on a new Coachman. The one installed on the outdoor kitchen had sides the can block the wind, so since I was installing it indoors, I bought the cheaper version that did not include the sides.

They also sell a full black cover too.

Here is what I purchased:

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/SUBUR...-p/07-0370.htm

Sweet, that's going on my "want" list! For some reason I thought they only made a 3 burner one...