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Old 10-18-2020, 12:19 PM   #1
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192RBS - 3 specific questions on winterization

I know there are hundreds of generic winterization Q&As on this forum but I couldn't find any answers specific to questions I have about my model - a 2021 Freedom Express 192RBS. I have three specific questions:

1. Where is the water pump located?

The 192RBS has a sealed bottom, so I can't see or access anything underneath the belly of the unit. Hence I can't trace the water lines down and see where they leave the fresh water tank and go to the water pump. So I don't know where it is and how to get to it.

As an aside, I don't own a air compressor, so will have to go the route of pumping pink antifreeze through the system using the water pump.

2. Confirming the hot water heater bypass valves.

I removed the panel next to the fuse box (held in place by four square-headed (!) screws). Some postings in this forum referenced three valves but I only see two. I think all I need to do is to rotate these two valves, but I wanted to confirm that here:
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3. Adding pink antifreeze to the fresh water tank

OK, so maybe this is a bit of a generic question, but as I've read through the postings of winterization, some say put pink antifreeze in the fresh water tank (if you don't use an air compressor) and others say don't do that. Why the discrepancy? Related: this question might be moot if I can find where the water pump is (ref: question #1 above) and draw directly from a jug to the pump (assuming there is a winterization-input connector there) but I still wanted to understand the logic behind the competing recommendations.

Thanks much. I'm obviously a first-year RV owner here, and I appreciate the help!

Ray
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Old 10-18-2020, 12:38 PM   #2
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Hi Ray,

I can help out with two questions.

On my 2019 192RBS, the water pump is located under the sink. There is a vertical panel piece you need to unscrew and the pump is right there. My 2019 came with a winterization kit, consisting of a short piece of hose and a valve. Shut the vslve fron the fresh water tank, open the valve from the short hose. When you turn on the pump it will suck the AF from a jug.

Your HW bypass is different than mine, in that i do have 3 valves. I cant help you there! As an aside, i added magnetic latches and knobs that match the rest of the cabinets in the trailer. I simply pull the HW cover off instead of unscrewing the screws.

Dont forget to open the low point drains. One on front for the fresh water tank, two in rear for cold and hot water lines. Also, run the AF through the outside shower.
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Old 10-18-2020, 12:51 PM   #3
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#1. About the only way to locate some of these pumps is to turn it on and find it by listening.
#2. Can't say for certain, but those look like inputs and outputs to your hot water heater to me. You need to bypass that water heater when winterizing.
#3. If you put RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank, the taste is difficult to get rid of.

You don't need to pump it through using your water pump.
Empty the fresh water tank so that the water in that doesn't freeze. Open the blue and red low points and open the faucets to drain the lines. Close the valves.
Get one of these and pump the antifreeze into the system using the city water inlet https://www.campingworld.com/plastic...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 10-18-2020, 04:11 PM   #4
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Another question....what does the tag say? In the pic it says bypass valve, but I can’t read the rest. Maybe it’ll give a clue.
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Old 10-18-2020, 06:10 PM   #5
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The bottom line fills the water heater tank
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Old 10-18-2020, 06:16 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by IvoryHemi View Post
The bottom line fills the water heater tank
Understood, but he is trying to bypass the water heater to winterize. Are they 3-way valves?
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Old 10-18-2020, 06:39 PM   #7
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I have a 192RBS but I also have 3 bypass valves on my water heater.

Given your configuration, I would suggest that you first open 3 outside drains. There are two in the left rear for hot and cold and a third up toward the front near the left edge for the main water tank. During this initial stage, I would also leave the hot water tank valves open and let it all drain well. Then remove the drain plug on the water heater itself and leave that open. Then close the valves into and out of the water heater.

After this initial prep on mine, I would use a non oiled compressor to blow some air at low pressure through the outside water hookup and sequentially open all faucets to see what additional water you can get out. Don't forget the outside shower and toilet. Then add the drain plugs in the left rear and repeat with compressor. If you do not have a compressor, it seems that many people just move on to pull the antifreeze into the system (see below).

Final step I use is to use the diverter valves under the sink and pull antifreeze up into the system with the water pump. You can access that by removing the screws holding the decorative panel under the sink and behind the door. Again open each faucet, toilet, shower, outside shower, and run until antifreeze comes out. On mine it is taking about 2 gallons. I normally have 3 ready and have not needed the third.
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Old 10-18-2020, 06:52 PM   #8
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Post #4 here explains your two valve bypass system:


https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...st-103381.html
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Old 10-18-2020, 07:01 PM   #9
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I'm fairly certain your water heater is in "summer mode." The water will flow in the direction of the lever. Right now it will flow in and out of the water heater. The levers are pointing in and out of the water heater. You want to twist both valves so that water flows through the bypass hose, so.point the levers that way.

Hope that helps.
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Old 10-18-2020, 08:09 PM   #10
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^^^ this
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Old 10-18-2020, 11:38 PM   #11
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Thanks guys; that was all very clear and complete. I got all three questions answered.

I had been confused about the two vs. three valves I read about, but all of the comments, annotations, and the link cleared that all up.

Tomorrow I'll look under the sink and try to find the water pump, as you all described.

I appreciate the rapid and articulate replies from you all!

Ray
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Old 10-19-2020, 05:53 AM   #12
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Donít forget the black tank sprayer

Not sure how you will do it without an air compressor, but donít forget the black tank sprayer.
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Old 10-19-2020, 02:58 PM   #13
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Aray,
I know this is late but I just had to comment. Typically there are three 'shut off valves'. They are either open or closed. One for your hot water line, one for cold and a third for a bypass line between hot and cold which is usually placed before the other two shutoff valves. You would typically open the hot and cold and close the bypass during warm weather. This allows water to flow thru the water heater. Opp for winter.

What you have are two 'three way valves'. You point the handle in the direction of flow. For yours, If it is straight on both sides, the water goes thru the bypass hose and skips the water tank. This is what you'd set it at before putting antifreeze in your lines so non goes into the water heater.
If you turn your valves to be in line with the lines going into the water heater, then the water goes into the water heater and the bypass line is cut off. This will cause the water heater to fill up.

If you put antifreeze in your lines, make sure you run clear water thru them before switching over to fill your wot water heater in the spring. Or you're going to get antifreeze in your water heater.
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Old 10-19-2020, 08:17 PM   #14
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The elusive water pump had a bonus!

So I got access to my 2021 192RBS today, and looked under the sink for the water pump, where Jfkmk's pump was located.

On the top shelf under the sink are just the hot and cold water supplies, the drains from the dual basins, and the trap.
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Underneath that is a small storage area, and a diagonal partition that can be removed with two screws in the bottom. Behind the partition I expected to find the water pump.
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Surprise! It wasn't there. All that was present were the continuation of the hot water supply, the gray water drain, and where the output of the water pump joins the entire cold water distribution system. That supply hose however ran off to the left, behind the oven but underneath it on the floor:
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So I put everything back together and looked to the left in the small storage compartment underneath the oven, again finding a partition screwed into the floor:
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And upon removing that: success! The water pump was found.

But, bonus, it looks like it already has a built-in winterization kit, ref:
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Just this morning I purchased the Camco Permanent Pump Converter Winterizing Kit from a local RV dealer; now I'm going to return it. Looks like if I throw two of the valves in opposite directions, the pump will draw from the hose which I can insert into a jug of RV antifreeze.

Oddly, there were two valves on that AF hose. I can't see why I need more than one. I'm thinking about disconnecting the second valve, as with a valve there it might not fit into the neck of a jug. The only reason I can see why FE added that one in is that it is threaded, so in theory I could thread it into a longer hose.

Of course the first winterization valve is in the wrong configuration at the moment (open) so if I toss the second redundant valve I'll have to fix that.

By the way, here is the default pump Freedom Express installed. It's worked well so far.
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Ray
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Old 10-19-2020, 08:21 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Jfkmk View Post
Not sure how you will do it without an air compressor, but donít forget the black tank sprayer.
Does the black tank flush supply retain water in it (and hence needs to be flushed) or is it a direct flow into the black water tank?

Ray
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Old 10-19-2020, 09:01 PM   #16
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Ray,
Sorry to lead you astray! Behind the panel under my stove is the slide in camp stove accessed from outside the camper. I’m kind of surprised they would change this.

I believe the black tank flush does retain water, but I could be wrong about that too.
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Old 10-19-2020, 09:19 PM   #17
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I blew air through the blank tank flush
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Old 10-19-2020, 09:41 PM   #18
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Ray,
Sorry to lead you astray! Behind the panel under my stove is the slide in camp stove accessed from outside the camper. Iím kind of surprised they would change this.

I believe the black tank flush does retain water, but I could be wrong about that too.
No, you didn't mislead me at all! Actually it became sort of a quest today for me to find the thing.

I suspect the reason your configuration is different from mine is that I didn't get the camp stove.

Ray
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Old 10-19-2020, 10:49 PM   #19
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< snip >

During this initial stage, I would also leave the hot water tank valves open and let it all drain well. Then remove the drain plug on the water heater itself and leave that open. Then close the valves into and out of the water heater.

< snip >
If you do this you risk pulling the sediment from the water heater tank into the rest of the plumbing setting yourself up for faucets, shower heads and toilet screen filter getting plugged with crud.


It's always best to bypass the water heater tank and drain it through the drain plug and flush out the WH tank with a WH drain tool before draining the rest of the plumbing. If you have a Suburban WH it's a good time to inspect the anode rod to see if it needs replacement while you have the drain plug out.
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Old 10-20-2020, 06:06 AM   #20
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No, you didn't mislead me at all! Actually it became sort of a quest today for me to find the thing.

I suspect the reason your configuration is different from mine is that I didn't get the camp stove.

Ray
My tt wonít have the camp stove for long either, in the 3 years of using the camper weíve never used it. I plan to remove it and use the space for those things we need first when setting up camp.

As for the black tank flush, there may be a low point you want to remove the water from. Iím sure there is a back flow preventer as well.

You donít need much of a compressor to remove the water, any pancake or hot dog compressor would probably do as long as it is oil less. Harbor Freight (yeah, I know - cheap junk!) has one for $39 - 20% with coupon. To me this would be cheap insurance vs. plumbing repair.

Let us know how you make out!
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