---NOTE--- I actually did this mod in 2016. Absolutely 0 issues, and I've driven 12,000 miles including a trip all over Colorado and Utah. Here is the review I never posted:
After a huge amount of research and planning, I converted my Coachman 360 IBL to electric over hydraulic brakes. I must say, this install was quite a bit easier than I thought. My skill level is fairly high, considering I’m a farmer, engineer, plus I work on equipment often. I also have a shop with all the tools that I needed (which weren’t many). In total this job took me about 10 hours. I could do it again in about 6.
I wasn’t satisfied with the included electric drum trailer brakes with the 360IBL. They worked well, don’t get me wrong, but I had a few instances where I needed more brakes than I had. My camper weighs more than my TV, which is a 2012 F350. I had to set the trailer brake gain to 8.5. I was never able to lock them up at any gain setting. (Upon conversion I found there was a poor brake line connection in the box near the 5th wheel)
This led to my decision to upgrade the brakes. Etrailer has been my go-to trailer parts supplier. If you’re good at searching the internet, you can use their price guarantee and save lots.
- I have 2x Dexter 7000 lbs axles.
- Lug nuts are 9/16
I ordered the following from etrailer:
- 2x Kodiak Disc Brake Kit – 13” Hub / Rotor – 8 on 6 ½ - Raw finish. 7000lbs – Item #K2HR79 ------ Different outer bearings are required here: 4x Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing – 02475
- 3x (1 extra) Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)
- 4x Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing – 25580 (inner bearings)
- HydraStar Hydraulic Brake Line Kit - Tandem Axle - 30' Long, 1/4" Main Line
- Dexter Electric Over Hydraulic Brake Actuator - 1,600 psi
- The Dexter brake actuator has a 3/16 output fitting. I purchased a 3/16 to ¼ fitting from my local NAPA.
- I purchased 12x 12oz bottles of DOT4 brake fluid.
- Zip strips
Install the disk brake hubs:
1. Remove Wheel
2. Remove nut
3. Remove hub. Just yank it off. You won’t hurt anything.
a. Image – Hub removed
4. Clean off old grease
5. Cut brake electric wires
6. Remove 5 bolts holding drum actuator.
7. Remove heavy rust with steel wool or sandpaper
8. I’ve switched the grease I use, so I pumped enough through the zerk to clean it out.
9. Install disk brake mount.
b. On the passenger side you want to put the brakes at 9 o’clock (according to manual)
c. On drivers side its 3 o’clock
d. Torque nuts to specified rating
10. Disk brake mount does clear Lippert suspension
11. Pack bearings
12. Install inner bearing
13. Install inner seal
14. Install hub
15. Install outer bearing
16. Install washer, nut.
17. Snug nut
18. Install holding clip
19. Install caliper
a. Torque to setting specified
20. Install outer hub seal
21. Reinstall tires.
This part was pretty simple.
Next up is running the brake lines.