360 IBL electric over hydraulic disc brake upgrade

[farmncamp]

---NOTE--- I actually did this mod in 2016. Absolutely 0 issues, and I've driven 12,000 miles including a trip all over Colorado and Utah. Here is the review I never posted:


After a huge amount of research and planning, I converted my Coachman 360 IBL to electric over hydraulic brakes. I must say, this install was quite a bit easier than I thought. My skill level is fairly high, considering I’m a farmer, engineer, plus I work on equipment often. I also have a shop with all the tools that I needed (which weren’t many). In total this job took me about 10 hours. I could do it again in about 6.

I wasn’t satisfied with the included electric drum trailer brakes with the 360IBL. They worked well, don’t get me wrong, but I had a few instances where I needed more brakes than I had. My camper weighs more than my TV, which is a 2012 F350. I had to set the trailer brake gain to 8.5. I was never able to lock them up at any gain setting. (Upon conversion I found there was a poor brake line connection in the box near the 5th wheel)

This led to my decision to upgrade the brakes. Etrailer has been my go-to trailer parts supplier. If you’re good at searching the internet, you can use their price guarantee and save lots.

• I have 2x Dexter 7000 lbs axles.
• Lug nuts are 9/16

I ordered the following from etrailer:

• 2x Kodiak Disc Brake Kit – 13” Hub / Rotor – 8 on 6 ½ - Raw finish. 7000lbs – Item #K2HR79 ------ Different outer bearings are required here: 4x Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing – 02475
• 3x (1 extra) Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)
• 4x Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing – 25580 (inner bearings)
• HydraStar Hydraulic Brake Line Kit - Tandem Axle - 30' Long, 1/4" Main Line
• Dexter Electric Over Hydraulic Brake Actuator - 1,600 psi
  Purchased elsewhere:
• The Dexter brake actuator has a 3/16 output fitting. I purchased a 3/16 to ¼ fitting from my local NAPA.
• I purchased 12x 12oz bottles of DOT4 brake fluid.
• Zip strips

Install the disk brake hubs:
1. Remove Wheel
2. Remove nut
3. Remove hub. Just yank it off. You won’t hurt anything.
a. Image – Hub removed

4. Clean off old grease
5. Cut brake electric wires
6. Remove 5 bolts holding drum actuator.
7. Remove heavy rust with steel wool or sandpaper
8. I’ve switched the grease I use, so I pumped enough through the zerk to clean it out.

9. Install disk brake mount.

b. On the passenger side you want to put the brakes at 9 o’clock (according to manual)
c. On drivers side its 3 o’clock
d. Torque nuts to specified rating
10. Disk brake mount does clear Lippert suspension

11. Pack bearings
12. Install inner bearing
13. Install inner seal
14. Install hub
15. Install outer bearing
16. Install washer, nut.
17. Snug nut
18. Install holding clip
19. Install caliper
a. Torque to setting specified
20. Install outer hub seal

21. Reinstall tires.

This part was pretty simple.

Next up is running the brake lines.

[farmncamp]

Installing the brake lines:
I didn’t take many pictures of my brake line install because each person needs to choose the right path for themselves. I can summarize what I did though. I started by installing the flexible lines to all the calipers, then reverse engineered from there. Knowing the 30’ of ¼” line would be longer than I needed, I added the 3/16” line that crossed to the other side along the spare tire mount. This is behind the axles. The front passenger side axle is the furthest from the actuator. I didn’t tighten any lines yet, just hand tight. I didn’t mount them fully yet either.
I installed the Dexter actuator in the front drivers side compartment of the camper, right next to the incoming electrical wires from the truck and next to the battery. It was a perfect location. I drilled holes in the metal base and used a few rubber bushings as a vibration absorber between the actuator and metal base floor. I used 4x ¼” x ¾” bolts with lock nuts to secure the actuator. I used a piece of cardboard and a sharpie to make a drill template.

The hardest part of the whole job was running that ¼” brake line. I already had the back 3/16” lines set where I wanted them, but the ¼” would have to meet two fixed locations. I straightened the entire line and ran it to the back of the camper along the drivers side. As I recall, I ran it along the gas line. I Drilled a 7/8” hole through the frame where I wanted the ¼” brake line to enter the front compartment. I inserted a rubber bushing (which was very frustrating) through the hole I drilled to prevent metal on metal wear. I used one of those small green propane bottles to make the curve into the front compartment. I ran about 3’ of ¼” line into the front, then bent it with the propane bottle. Running brake lines isn’t easy! You’ve got to plan ahead and I can’t give perfect instructions how to do it. Don’t short yourself on line when making the loop. I would’ve like to make another loop, but I got what I wanted.

Once you get your ¼” brake line into your actuator output go ahead and tighten well. I started permanently attaching the ¼” brake line as I rolled towards the back on the creeper. I ran it right next to the gas line. The 30’ of ¼” line is about 6’ longer than it needs to be. I ran it along the gas line behind the tires. I measured the distance of excess line from the place I wanted to connect and the end. I made my bend at ½ - 4”. It wasn’t perfect but close. From here on out I went to each fitting and tightened them. I secured everything with straps. You don’t want your metal lines moving. That’s for the flexible lines. Keep this in mind when you mount and secure your lines. There are 100 different ways you can run brake lines.

The Electrical Connections:
There are 4 wires that come off the Dexter actuator. The directions are easy to follow. I always solder my critical connections and use heat shrink tubing. Some may choose another method. In the pigtail connection to the camper, the BLUE line is your brake line. I figured out where the blue line connected to and found it inside the camper. I cut it, and connected the correct electrical lines. The brake line also had a ground wire with it, where I connected the ground for the actuator. A 12v always on wire I connected to the back of the on / off switch. My last wire is the breakaway.

The breakaway:
In an electric drum brake there is power coming from the camper to the breakaway switch. The cold lead is joined with the BLUE brake line. If the breakaway switch is pulled a full 12+ volts is applied to the blue brake line (This was a blue/white wire for me). The EOH system is similar, but we want to send that 12v to a different location, the actuator inside. I disconnected the always on 12v power (This was a blue/white wire for me) that fed to the battery inside the front camper bay. I connected this to the breakaway wire. I then connected the other part of the breakaway switch to the +12v power fed from the truck AND camper in the pigtail area. Therefore, I did not have to run any wires. See the video for more info:

VIDEO IS HERE
https://youtu.be/l0r7acnPFm8
VIDEO IS ABOVE

I bled my brakes 3x over. I’ll do it again tomorrow, and then in a few weeks. The first test drive I did I set the gain to 6.5 and darn near put my head through the window when I tested it. Left some rubber! I’m now running at 5.5 and wow! The camper really stops with authority. I think there is still some air in the lines, as there is a bit of a delay. I’m used to driving semi trucks, so this isn’t a big issue for me, but I’ll be bleeding again.
I hope this is helpful for somebody wanting to do this upgrade. The biggest advice I can give you is knowing your axle size, lug nut count, and lug nut size. Etrailer was very helpful. This was about $1700. Worth every penny when you consider everything important to me in life is in the truck pulling this camper.