360 IBL MODS Enjoy

[Carls241]

Hey Guys and Gals,
In an effort to help others, as you have helped me. I am going to post the MODS made thus far on my 2017 360IBL and list them with a scale of 1-10 with 10 being the most difficult., time taken, cost and over all results.

First up is the Hitch conversion - Mor ryde Pin Box

- Morryde Pin Box
- Cost: $450 on sale
- Time: 2.5 Hours
Difficulty: 6 of 10

Results: Worth every Penny.....would not go back, nor do I need more...it is just right

[Carls241]

Moryde Steps

Cost: $250.00
Time: 1 Hour
Difficulty: 2

Results: They are great steps, however for me the money for this mod does not provide a stellar return verses stock....just my 2 cents

[Carls241]

We all know that our RV fridges are not GREAT performers, our has not been as well. Relocated the electric to the side to plug in as well.

Added a 3.1 cu.ft under the bar (stools store behind theater seating) and it looks almost like a stock option

Cost: $150 with 2 2 year warranty
Time: 1 hour
Difficulty: 6 ( need to know a little el;electrical here to add the outlet and there is plenty of room to do so)

Results: A 10 , just comfort in knowing the backup is always here

[Carls241]

Upgraded the tires was not an option to not do for me. Peace of mind is everything and replacing the stock tires was 1st mod I did.

Tires : Sailun S637
Cost: $600.00 installed
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: 0 - Professionally Installed

Results: 10 - peace of mind cannot be priced

[Carls241]

This Domestic fridge has had her problems since day 1. She does OK now, with the mods even in the heat, but I still do not trust her

Mods:
- Dual cooling fans exterior ( $30)
- Dual cooling fans Interior ($30)
- External temperature monitor ($30)

Cost- $90.00
Time: 3 hours
Difficulty: 7 ( getting to the back of the fridge for the 2 exterior fans and running the power wire down the drain tube for the internal fans is challenging)

Results: Fridge maintains 35"F and Freezer 2'F

[Carls241]

JT Strong Arms added to all my campers to date. They are a low cost add on that provide amazing results in stabilization

Cost: $250.00 (Front and Rear)
Time: 2 hours
Difficulty: 3

Results: 10 - I do not like trailer sway, and could not afford automatic jacks, these work great and worth the time and effort.

[Carls241]

Siphon 360 Balk and Grey Water Vent Cover change out. I install these on all my rigs, after one that had a bad sewer smell issue.

Cost: $22 each on sale = $44
- 1 Tude caulk = $10

Total Cost: $54
Time: 30 minutes
Difficulty: 2

Results: Highly recommended - Easy and great Mod to assist in Black/Grey Tank odor. removal - or non-occurrence. I will always install this type of vent, unless they come standard on my next new rig

[Carls241]

Install of
- Fire / Carbon Monoxide Combo units on wall in Master and Bunk
- Intall 2 Carbon Monoxide detectors ( 1-Hall / 1 Living Room)

Cost: $100.00
Time: 30 Minutes
Difficulty: 1

Results: Again this is Safety, so of the highest priority, do I need the additional, maybe not, but maybe for fire or carbon monoxide is not a good insurance policy to me!

[Carls241]

Tireminder TPS System, yes another insurance / safety related item. TO me the saftety and peace of mind of this unit, out-ways the cost.

This unit works great, and uses my phone as the monitor. I bought the unit with the repeater and installed that in the front bay area near the battery.

This unit works great, and alarms if tire pressure is too low, which if it occurs, I expect will give me enough time to pull over before a blow-out

Cost: $300
Time: 30 minutes (installed the repeater in rig)
Difficulty: 2

Results: Again, this is a preventive issue for to help prevent a major issue. So having said that I rate it 8, high on my list of add-ons

[Carls241]

Here are several low cost add-ons combined, but of great overall satisfaction:

All are:
Difficulty: 1 - Easy to complete
Time: Low- 10-30 minutes

- Master Door Lock: $7
- Fire extinguishers: $30 (2)
- Shower Anti-Slip Tape - $15
- Front Bay and Propane Tank door locks - $30
- Exhaust Vent Cover - $35

[Carls241]

I added the keyless door lock to assist with my very large ring of keys always hauling around.

It has 3 ways to use:
1. Use a key
2. Use an access code to lock / unlock
2. Use a remote ( like your car door) to lock /unlock

Cost: $125
Time: 30 min
Difficulty: 4

Results: For the cost I rate it a 7, makes it very convenient, but the value to me would be more in the $70-80 range.

[Carls241]

For those of you with a 360, you know this is a great mod...should be a factory item. I installed a hold-down latch on the Wet Bay Door

Cost: $10
Time: 20 min
Difficulty: 5

Results: Awesome bang for the dollar, holds the door open and in place as designed.

[Carls241]

Added the LevelMate- Pro Leveling system. Its mounted to the right of the temperature module in the pic

Cost: $125 - LevelMate Pro
Time: less than 30 min
Difficulty: 2

Results: On the fence with this one....could be user error but I always seem to use my level instead. It seems to forget my tongue location, so when i go back to hitch I have to eyeball anyway. For me I rank this as a 5 ( could go either way, with or without)

[Carls241]

Exterior Solar Motion Detector Lights; you can see them on both sides of the steps

These lights are great to see when coming home at night. I installed with double backed tape as well as 2 stainless steel screws each. No electrical connection required, as they are Solar powered.

Cost: $15 for pair on Amazon
Time: 15 minutes
Difficulty: 3

Results: These are Awesome and a cheap Mod at $15. Saves stubbed toes, and finding your way. Bonus is they have motion detection so come on automatically when you approach the door, and stay o for about 1 minute.

[bigredpig]

Thank you for the tips. We also have a 2017 360IBL. We love the camper and the wet door tip is great.

[natedawg]

Nice. Since you started the thread I will add a few of mine.
Added LED'd up by the king pin so you can clearly see it, and some by the front jacks. Upgraded the outdoor speakers. I found some plastic speaker spacers that worked perfect. Still had to trim the holes about a 1/4" to get them to fit.
Also moved the wall back to get a few extra inches. At the same time I added a head unit and amp I had to drive the outdoor speakers. No more going inside to change the station. I camp a good bit at a private spot so I can turn the music up to my desire. Before anyone asks I keep it quite in public campgrounds...

Oh yeah, and I just saw it in the picture. The front marker lights at the bottom for towing at night. Couldn't see the ones half way back up on the side. Not sure why they put them them there. I left the reflectors because they are taped on. I have two more I plan to add on the fenders so I know where my axles are when backing in to a spot at night.

[Carls241]

Can you show a close-up of the LEDs and how you ran them?

[natedawg]

I can take a better picture the next time we take it out. It is in storage right now. As you can see I don't have much of a yard, and well a lovely HOA. I found the led's on amazon, link below, like what is in the slide out. I drilled holes in the bottom of the fiberglass on the sides of the king pin. Used a step drill bit. I ran the wire above the king pin between the fiberglass and metal frame. It is tight and a pain, but possible. If you use a fish tape there is a piece of angle up in there. If/when you go past it your fish tape is stuck! Only resort is to yank it and bend the end straight. I put the wires in loom to prevent them from shorting against the frame. Then ran it with the wires from the truck connection. That feeds into the front storage bin. The wire that runs to the led's on the bed slide is in the loom that goes over top of propane tank on the left side. It is a blue wire with yellow stripe, and a standalone white wire, at least on mine. If you look under the bed you can find it in the floor, kinda just hanging out. It is spliced to different color wires under the bed, so be aware... For the ones by the jacks I had some 1 1/4" aluminum flat bar. I cut a 2" long piece, drilled a hole for the light and then screwed the flat bar to the underside. I was going to add them at the edge in the aluminum flashing where it rolls under, but they would have pointed inward at an angle. I was going for straight down. I plan to add two more at the back bumper somewhere, but ran out of time.

On a side note, if anyone knows where to get duplex wire like they use on rv's that would be a nice find. All I can find online is red and black, or the marine stuff which is too expensive for this use case. I picked up some 18 ga wire from NAPA and taped a blue and white together to run to these. The stuff they sell at auto zone and the likes is not as good a quality IMO. I do know you pay more at NAPA, but I don't need 1000 feet, so it didn't make sense to source elsewhere.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Halfmast]

Some great tips, thank you! I agree 100% about the wet bay door... that'll be the very first quick-n-easy mod that I do when my camping season starts... four weeks today!! Yee Haw! Can't wait.

Locking the propane doors is not something that I personally would do. I have seen a rig burn to the ground and among the first things the savvy campers helping did - while they were still able - was to move the propane tanks out of harm's way.

[chaps2018]

Anybody add correct track (lift kit) or ground control 3.0 auto levelers??? I am looking to start the GC3 install this weekend. Pointers would be helpful on...

-where to locate the mid and rear jacks
-where u mounted the touchpad
-how difficult is the underbelly material to remove.
-of course the many things I have not yet thought of that you always do ;-)