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Old 08-10-2017, 06:40 PM   #1
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Adding Refrigerator Insulation

My 17BH has practically no insulation between the refrigerator sidewalls/top and the cabinet walls, about an inch space on 1 side, 2 inches on the other, and 4 inches on top to the counter. Is there any reason I should NOT fill those spaces with fiberglass batt insulation, keeping well away from the rear fins/flame?

If I do fill that space and now significantly reduce heat loss will the refrigerator compensate and avoid freezing in the cool compartment? ie, does the fridge have a thermostat to keep from getting TOO cold? It currently cycles between 30F and 50F depending on outside temperature. Adding fans to vent the generated hot air has helped but I'm hoping reducing the heat loss from the fridge interior will help stabilize the temperature.
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Old 08-10-2017, 06:55 PM   #2
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I also thought the ref insulation was insufficient and also had a plethora of dead bug carcasses trapped in it.

I removed all the insulation and replaced it with two layers of the insulator board and in doing so was able to streamline the airflow across the rear coils.

I used contact glue to secure the layers to the inside walls and strapping as added support. For all the seams I used aluminum duct tape.

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Old 08-10-2017, 07:15 PM   #3
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I'm following this thread. My current refer also is borderline. On warm days it struggles to maintain 40-42 which is barely safe food storage temperature.
My dealer added some sort of baffle to help with air flow in the upper rear. Before that it was closer to 50 on a hot day. I added 2 computer fans in the top exhaust that help a little.

I also added an adjustable temperature control.
My next move might be more insulation also.
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Old 08-10-2017, 09:33 PM   #4
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Iím kinda on the other side of the fence.
Removing the loose bat insulation to improve air flow. The coils need to cool, Iím not sure... but think the insulation may be hurting rather than helping??

I did add two fans to the bottom, and will add two more to the top. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-10-2017, 10:37 PM   #5
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There is nothing wrong with more insulation but the most important part is clear air flow over the fins. Fans help but you don't need to overdo it with a lot of air pressure, just a steady soft flow is more than adequate. Too much air flow is wasted unless you have a way to moisten the fins as well.

Creating a channel and baffles that direct the flow or draft over the fins will be completely sufficient unless the cooling system is failing or the outside air is extremely hot.

I have had my refrigerator work perfectly for over a week of 95+ degree days. Kept ice cream and ice frozen solid and the other food at a safe temperature.
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Old 08-11-2017, 07:21 AM   #6
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The refer in my ex- 2010 Rockwood Ultra-lite worked fine without any fans.
My current rig has one size larger Dometic (I forget the cubic feet at the
moment.)
I've tried everything but more insulation which I think might help.
There's no way to insulate the doors or the rear but I have room on the
sides and top. If I was really energetic I'd pull it out of the space and
really stuff the sides and top. Currently it's ok most of the time so I'm
leaving it as is for now. We rarely camp in really hot weather more than
a couple of days at a time and I can live with it.

One problem for me is- if it's hot and I'm boondocking it definitely uses more
LP because it's trying to cool all the time- like never shuts off the flame except maybe briefly at night.

The one thing that really helps me is a plastic mug that has blue ice fluid in it.
I stick that thing in the freezer and it will take a 40 degree beer and bring it right down to 32 or so. If it wasn't for that I'd have pulled the refer out
months ago and added more insulation.
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Old 08-11-2017, 04:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
The one thing that really helps me is a plastic mug that has blue ice fluid in it.
I stick that thing in the freezer and it will take a 40 degree beer and bring it right down to 32 or so. If it wasn't for that I'd have pulled the refer out
months ago and added more insulation.
A man has to do what a man has to do
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Old 08-11-2017, 11:28 PM   #8
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Have to agree with the steady airflow, doesn't need to be overkill...we went thru one weekend at 36C where the fridge would not recover. I've added a thermostically controlled internal fan across the internal cooling fins and an external fan that kicks in when the external coil where it's placed hits above 130f. We've been camping with temps in the 30-34C area, the internal fan cycles in and out as needed and keeps internal temp around 3-5C (or lower) consistently. The external fan only cycled when it was an airless afternoon with sweltering heat. All in all the internal helps recovery faster and if I did it again I would start there first and do the single external exhaust fan second.
Just my experience....
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:41 AM   #9
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The fans I used are silent low rpm. 700rpm.
Pointing a fan directly on the fins, behind the fridge makes no sense.
Pull through the intake, push up through the roof vent.
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:01 AM   #10
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In my 2018 2606WS, the inside wall next to the sink on the side of the refrigerator gets hot. Opening the outside grill, that wall is adjacent to the flue that goes toward the top vent. Shouldn't there be insulation there beside the flue and the wall to keep the temperature of the wall down?
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Old 09-24-2017, 10:12 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny kustom View Post
The fans I used are silent low rpm. 700rpm.
Pointing a fan directly on the fins, behind the fridge makes no sense.
Pull through the intake, push up through the roof vent.
Inasmuch as the cooling fins are actually just a heat exchanger it does make sense to blow air over them from the bottom to the top.

The airflow will draw air from the bottom vent and push it up and out the top vent all the while moving more air molecules over the cooling fins making them more effective. It is a bit like blowing air over your A coil in yur home AC to make the air cold only in reverse.
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