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Old 03-18-2021, 06:34 PM   #341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fshrlou View Post
Hello Everyone,


I finally attempted and completed the upper bunk window addition yesterday and wanted to share a few things about the project. When we toured the trailer, we looked at one with the Off grid/Off Road package and upper bunk window, so we ordered it. When it finally arrived, no upper bunk window. Did enough research and read this great forum and figured I could add it. Our build was January 2021



First, all the RV suppliers were out of the exact window that came with the 208. I was lucky enough to find a supplier on eBay that had them in stock and were about $20 cheaper than others. (ebay name, rvpartsandsupply).


Watched a few YouTube videos on how people were installing them, came up with a plan, and bought all parts necessary. I will include pictures with part numbers for window and trim ring. I also had to purchase a 5/16" rubber foam seal and I used dynaflex 230 Clear window caulk.


I had no measurements to go off of besides the distance that the bottom window was from the awning frame. I did my best to look at factory pictures, then took measurements from top of window to where I thought it would sit from inside the bunk area. Measured for an hour or so, then went to make a template. Had a piece of 1/2" plywood in the garage, so I traced the inner ring of window to plywood. Cut it out, then placed it above window to make my outline for cutting. Once the outline was drawn, put some blue painter's tape around the cutout to minimize scratching or burs. Drilled two pilot holes for jigsaw in upper left and lower right of the inside of traced line. Started the cut from lower right hole and worked my way to the left. As I reached the end of the upper curve of the outline, the blade felt like it was hitting something solid. I stopped once I knew it was metal. I put the blade in the pilot hole just inches away, then work my way back to the left and met up with where I had felt the metal. Worked back to the right and finished the cutout. When I removed the wall piece, I couldn't believe what I saw. The actual factory aluminum frame for upper window! Thankfully I made my template a little small so I expanded the cutout until the window fit in there. I'm assuming if I cut the wall to the aluminum frame, the window would be fine, but it would sit a little loose, so I left the hole slightly smaller than the factory frame. All went well and my daughter is extremely happy.


Here are the measurements to the inner edge of factory window frame in the wall.


Right side inner edge of frame-
2 9/16" from left of awning support

Left side inner edge of frame-
26 1/2" from left of awning support
Upper inner edge of frame-
2 7/8" down from bottom of gutter
Lower inner edge of frame-
17 3/4" down from bottom of gutter


Hope this helps anyone with a newer model.
Thank you! This is another Spring project on my list. I probably would have drilled right into one of these frames! You are are lifesaver... literally. My wife would have killed me. =)

The window I'm buying is slightly smaller - so I think I should have a little room for error. Your measurements are extremely helpful! Thank you!

Oh forgot to ask. What thickness window did you need for the wall thickness?
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Old 03-18-2021, 07:31 PM   #342
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Originally Posted by fshrlou View Post
Like a few others on this forum, we wanted a master switch for the main 4 lights in the middle. One of the forum members indicated that the lights could be used with a dimmer switch, so I started the project. Locating wires within the cabinets and false walls was refreshingly easy. Bought an RV touch dimmer switch and wired it in to the wire that supported the light run. Tested it out and they worked great. What I quickly found out was every light and fan in the ceiling were on the same circuit. I started unscrewing each light and found out that they are mounted in the middle of the main wire run in the ceiling. The ceiling light closest to bathroom door was mounted where the wire run makes a turn to go down to the Power Center/Converter. I opened power center and traced which each 12volt wire color went to and decided to put the four lights on their own circuit, then tied the rest of the lights and two fans to the kitchen circuit


Some extra wire was added to support running wire from middle of ceiling to kitchen cabinets. Having the wire runs in the ceiling made things much easier to trace and customize. I left a piece of wire in their as a pull for future projects. Just used it the other day to pull speaker wire to the center of the ceiling.


Thought I would post this in case someone wanted to add a light switch or dimmer switch but should know that it was not a quick job and some intermediate electrical knowledge was necessary to make it function correctly.


The switch panel was added for future light fixtures and other 12 volt add-ons for the future.


Sorry for the sideways pictures. I'll have to remember to take more landscaped ones.

How did you fish a new wire for the lights down the chase to the power center. Fishtape, fishstix, or just push the wire? Was this romex you ran for the wiring?

Secondly how did you route the wire to the cabinets. Did you have to pull any panels or dividers out.

Lastly where did you get that switch panel. I like the idea and also thinking of using some of the extra switches to turn off inside speakers/outside speakers individually.
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Old 03-18-2021, 08:08 PM   #343
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maxds,


Thanks for the comments. Our model is 2021, with a Jan 2021 build time frame. 1 5/16" is the wall thickness. Providing picture of cut piece and template. Cut a slot in template for window lock so the window edge would sit flush on the wood for drawing the outline.
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Old 03-18-2021, 08:50 PM   #344
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Arcteryx,


To get the wire from the overhead kitchen cabinet to the center ceiling wire run, I ended up cutting the Orange/White wire at the cabinet(12v fuse number 2 labeled Kitchen Overhead in my model), twisted and taped new wire to it, then pulled it through. Used the excess new wire to pull orange/white wire back to reconnect. I was able to get a fish tape fed through the nice 2 1/2" whole in the ceiling where many wires are run for all the ceiling components. The wire run that runs laterally to cabinets, meets with center ceiling wire run in between the A/C unit and the next light to the rear. I couldn't get the fish tape to make the curve. Too many other wires kept catching the tip, so I used the cut and pull trick. The access hole is located in the center of the kitchen overhead cabinets. When I first opened our cabinets, I wondered why the center divider was at an angle instead of one straight support. Turns out, those are two false panels that are held in by 4 screws each that let you access the wiring. Same type of panel that is hiding the wiring for the switches by door.



I used 10-2 gauge flat duplex wire. Probably overkill, but wanted the insulation in case it gets hot up there.


I ended up not having to fish wire towards the pantry/TV cabinet. I cut the ceiling circuit wire(Brown/White 12v fuse number 1), which is in a two pole loop for all the ceiling items. I closed the loop after the light in front of bathroom door. After removing that light, that is where I saw the other colored wires. I made the new connections right there. I left the four ceiling lights and dimmer switch on circuit 1(brown/white), then joined the remaining lights and two fans to circuit 2(orange/white). To add the fan-tastic fan to the new string, I cut its power wires, used a about a 2 foot length of the 10-2 gauge so it could reach where I was making the new connection at the light near bathroom door. So the circuit 1 has just the 4 ceiling lights. Circuit 2 now has the kitchen fan, bathroom fan, bathroom light, and top bunk light added to it.


I bought switch panel on Amazon. I plan on adding an orange porch light, possibly a rear LED bar, my 2 meter radio, etc. My newer stereo has zones, so I'm able to turn off inside/outside speakers. The switch panel has fuses for each switch. All the wiring from there goes in the under panel where the speakers are mounted, then down the side of fridge, then straight towards the back of the outdoor kitchen panel.
Nilight 90101E 5Gang Multi-Function 5 Gang Rocker Dual USB Charger + Digital Volmeter +12V Outlet Pre-Wired Switch Panel





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Old 03-19-2021, 01:20 PM   #345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fshrlou View Post
maxds,


Thanks for the comments. Our model is 2021, with a Jan 2021 build time frame. 1 5/16" is the wall thickness. Providing picture of cut piece and template. Cut a slot in template for window lock so the window edge would sit flush on the wood for drawing the outline.
Perfect thank you!
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Old 03-20-2021, 08:23 AM   #346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fshrlou View Post
Hello Everyone,


I finally attempted and completed the upper bunk window addition yesterday and wanted to share a few things about the project. When we toured the trailer, we looked at one with the Off grid/Off Road package and upper bunk window, so we ordered it. When it finally arrived, no upper bunk window. Did enough research and read this great forum and figured I could add it. Our build was January 2021



First, all the RV suppliers were out of the exact window that came with the 208. I was lucky enough to find a supplier on eBay that had them in stock and were about $20 cheaper than others. (ebay name, rvpartsandsupply).


Watched a few YouTube videos on how people were installing them, came up with a plan, and bought all parts necessary. I will include pictures with part numbers for window and trim ring. I also had to purchase a 5/16" rubber foam seal and I used dynaflex 230 Clear window caulk.


I had no measurements to go off of besides the distance that the bottom window was from the awning frame. I did my best to look at factory pictures, then took measurements from top of window to where I thought it would sit from inside the bunk area. Measured for an hour or so, then went to make a template. Had a piece of 1/2" plywood in the garage, so I traced the inner ring of window to plywood. Cut it out, then placed it above window to make my outline for cutting. Once the outline was drawn, put some blue painter's tape around the cutout to minimize scratching or burs. Drilled two pilot holes for jigsaw in upper left and lower right of the inside of traced line. Started the cut from lower right hole and worked my way to the left. As I reached the end of the upper curve of the outline, the blade felt like it was hitting something solid. I stopped once I knew it was metal. I put the blade in the pilot hole just inches away, then work my way back to the left and met up with where I had felt the metal. Worked back to the right and finished the cutout. When I removed the wall piece, I couldn't believe what I saw. The actual factory aluminum frame for upper window! Thankfully I made my template a little small so I expanded the cutout until the window fit in there. I'm assuming if I cut the wall to the aluminum frame, the window would be fine, but it would sit a little loose, so I left the hole slightly smaller than the factory frame. All went well and my daughter is extremely happy.


Here are the measurements to the inner edge of factory window frame in the wall.


Right side inner edge of frame-
2 9/16" from left of awning support

Left side inner edge of frame-
26 1/2" from left of awning support
Upper inner edge of frame-
2 7/8" down from bottom of gutter
Lower inner edge of frame-
17 3/4" down from bottom of gutter


Hope this helps anyone with a newer model.


Great job. I'm planning to tackle this project next month when we get the trailer from storage. Coachman recommended making a window support by aluminum framing the window like what you saw when you made your cut. My model is an older 2019 so I may not have that. I'll use wood if needed but I'm not quite sure it's required. We'll have go see.
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Old 03-25-2021, 07:03 PM   #347
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Does anyone know the height of the trailer? I know specs say 10'. Is that 10' to the top of the AC unit or roof of the camper. Where I want to park the camper is under my basketball hoop I can raise a little more. It the roof is 10' that's not much room for error. However is its the ac unit thats perfect.
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Old 03-25-2021, 07:08 PM   #348
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Originally Posted by Arcteryx View Post
Does anyone know the height of the trailer? I know specs say 10'. Is that 10' to the top of the AC unit or roof of the camper. Where I want to park the camper is under my basketball hoop I can raise a little more. It the roof is 10' that's not much room for error. However is its the ac unit thats perfect.
Generally, outside height measurements don't include the a/c.
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Old 03-25-2021, 09:14 PM   #349
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Height

My 2019 208BHS is 9’ 10” to the top of the A/C. It clears my garage door by 2”.
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Old 03-31-2021, 12:19 AM   #350
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Originally Posted by Arcteryx View Post
Does anyone know the height of the trailer? I know specs say 10'. Is that 10' to the top of the AC unit or roof of the camper. Where I want to park the camper is under my basketball hoop I can raise a little more. It the roof is 10' that's not much room for error. However is its the ac unit thats perfect.
Arcteryx,

I have the off road package and the measurement from ground to top of A/C is 10’ 2”.
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:06 AM   #351
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Did you take pictures after the cutout, but window not installed?
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Old 04-06-2021, 09:08 AM   #352
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What model year was your BHS208? Mine is a 2019
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Old 04-18-2021, 03:47 PM   #353
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Just brought our camper home yesterday. Finally got a chance to play with everything and check it out. This was the first time the wife saw it. We do our shake down in 2 weeks. So far no issues other than kitchen faucet has a drip. Not consistent but is annoying me. I'll take a look at it rather than taking it to the dealer.



Tacoma pulls fairly decent. 55 mph and below no issues and you barely know its there. Once over 55 mph everything changes. Every bump is amplified. Wind really seems to affect the whole set up. Had a few spots on the freeway where it seemed like we were bouncing up and down which I attribute to the light vehicle and road condition. When off the freeway driving seemed good and enjoyable.
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Old 04-18-2021, 04:13 PM   #354
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Originally Posted by Arcteryx View Post
Just brought our camper home yesterday. Finally got a chance to play with everything and check it out. This was the first time the wife saw it. We do our shake down in 2 weeks. So far no issues other than kitchen faucet has a drip. Not consistent but is annoying me. I'll take a look at it rather than taking it to the dealer.



Tacoma pulls fairly decent. 55 mph and below no issues and you barely know its there. Once over 55 mph everything changes. Every bump is amplified. Wind really seems to affect the whole set up. Had a few spots on the freeway where it seemed like we were bouncing up and down which I attribute to the light vehicle and road condition. When off the freeway driving seemed good and enjoyable.
Nice to see another Tacoma + 208BHS combo! I usually like to keep it around 60mph max as well, it seems to be a good trade-off between speed, MPG, stability, etc. It looks like you still have a decent amount of squat there. Did you get a weight-distributing hitch (with anti-sway preferably)? With my E2 it looks totally level when hooked up and the bars on. I also later added SumoSprings to mine, but I have a topper as well so I have a bit of extra weight on the rear to start with.

On a totally different note, does anyone know the official recommendation for where to jack up the trailer? I think some recommend the frame and some the axles. Just wondering where we are supposed to jack up the 208BHS. Hoping to get new tires put on soon and want to be sure they are using the right jack points and not messing anything up.
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Old 04-18-2021, 04:40 PM   #355
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Looking good guys. 208bhs is probably the most you'll want to pull with a compact truck and those meaty off road tires don't help though.

I jack my trailer either by the axle tube closest to the ubolts or on the frame behind the axles.

I would take a trip to the CAT scale next time you set off to verify the weight to see if the wdh is 100% dialed-in.
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Old 04-18-2021, 05:07 PM   #356
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To help stabilize leaf spring suspension try the Raodmaster Avtive suspension, Works great on my Canyon.
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Old 04-19-2021, 08:24 AM   #357
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Accidentally upgraded to a bigger truck, so this is no longer an issue.
I just did as well, Ram 1500 with Hemi/V8. Crew cab & towing package. Going to be an easy pull. Wife is already looking into a bigger RV!
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Old 04-19-2021, 08:09 PM   #358
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To help stabilize leaf spring suspension try the Raodmaster Avtive suspension, Works great on my Canyon.
Did the Roadmaster suspension make a noticeable difference? I'm looking at them for my 4Runner
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Old 04-20-2021, 06:08 AM   #359
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Thats a good looking truck you got there. The picture i took is deceiving. We measured the drop in the rear and it only dropped 1/3rd of an inch. I may need to dial the the WDH a little better. There was a section of freeway where the truck seemed to bounce. Not sure if it was a bad stretch of road that was amplified while pulling or what. Overall not bad. And yes 60 MPH is the max I would feel comfortable.
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Old 04-20-2021, 06:24 AM   #360
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Did the Roadmaster suspension make a noticeable difference? I'm looking at them for my 4Runner
Yes it made a difference. Reduces sway and even improves ride empty by reducing body roll. It is a progressive type system so when your unloaded it is soft for a nice ride but as you put weight on it, its like adding a leaf so do speak. Check out there website and some you tube videos on it. Been around for a while and all good reviews.
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