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Old 05-10-2021, 10:48 AM   #401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redapex View Post
Thanks! We pick up our trailer in May 28th. Can’t wait.
Wow thats different from what I have. I don't have the off road package and my tounge height on level ground is 24". I thought the off road package was supposed to be 2" higher.

Think I need to go and recheck my hitch setup to make sure I'm good.
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Old 05-14-2021, 01:47 PM   #402
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New hitch height needed

So we are due to pick up our new 208 on the 28th. Apparently they couldnít get it with the off road package. Not a deal breaker for me. I can upgrade later if I want. So same question. For those of you without the off road package how high is the hitch on the trailer when it is level (not hooked up to the tow vehicle)
Also I just picked up an Andersen WHD. Anyone using this with the 208?
Iíve heard a couple people say it doesnít distribute enough weight on heavier trailers, but then others say itís just a set up issue. Thoughts?
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Old 05-14-2021, 08:24 PM   #403
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redapex View Post
So we are due to pick up our new 208 on the 28th. Apparently they couldnít get it with the off road package. Not a deal breaker for me. I can upgrade later if I want. So same question. For those of you without the off road package how high is the hitch on the trailer when it is level (not hooked up to the tow vehicle)
Also I just picked up an Andersen WHD. Anyone using this with the 208?
Iíve heard a couple people say it doesnít distribute enough weight on heavier trailers, but then others say itís just a set up issue. Thoughts?
I use an Anderson and it works great. It handles the load just fine. My trailer tongue is 24" when leveled so I set my Hitch at 25.5". Anderson specs are for Hitch to be 1" - 1 1/2" higher than tongue(do your own measurements when you have trailer and truck). I hand tightened nuts on chains for WDH. Then 4 full rotations of the adjustment nut with a wrench. I have a 1/4" drop in rear wheel well with this setup on an F150. Yes I measured from hub to fender.. Tows well and I don't mess with it since I think it is dialed in for my truck.

As for the APEX Nanos I hardly would call them.large or heavy trailers. Personally I think the Anderson is more than enough for a 1/2 ton with 208bhs setup. My tongue weight is about 700 lbs with trailer loaded.

Hope this helps. Here is a pic of my setup of 208bhs with Anderson WDH. Like I stated, 1/4" drop in rear. I could adjust with no drop but I like the way it tows so not messing around anymore.
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Old 05-14-2021, 10:47 PM   #404
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Perfect that’s exactly what I wanted to hear. Thanks for the info! I’ll set my hitch up the same before I go pick up the trailer. That way it will at least be in The ballpark.
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Old 05-15-2021, 11:11 PM   #405
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We are picking up our 208 on Friday. Got to look at it today. The top of the hitch was 24 inches.

Any one running dual 30 lb tanks?

Has anyone replaced the single bowl sink with a double?

The dealer had a portable power pack attached, and the awning was super slow. I thought it was likely just a low battery, but the side went in and out no problem. Does then seem normal?
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Old 05-16-2021, 07:24 AM   #406
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The awning is slow. Took me by surprise as well. When retracting the awning it feels like watching paint dry.
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Old 05-16-2021, 09:22 AM   #407
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The awning is slow. When opening, you're suppose to open it about a foot or two, pause for a second and then open it all the way. This allows the struts equalize and prevents premature wear.

The awning switch is an issue sometimes because the voltage drop is quite high. I haven't look into this yet but if your battery is on the low side, it might not have enough juice to close the awning. You'll have to connect the 7pin to the truck and then the awning will close. I've had this happened twice.

My driveway is sloped to the road so my tongue height isn't relevant. I believe its 27" or so. But on flat ground, it should be very close to 24".

You can easily run dual 30lbs but be mindful of the increase tongue weight. The 208bhs' tongue wt is inheritently on the heavy side. I keep lighter items in the pass through and all the heavy tools in the rear dinette bench.
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:10 PM   #408
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I took delivery of our 2021 208BHS Labor Day weekend last year and after a few weekends of driveway camping we put it in storage. We just returned from our first camping trip of the season here and I am happy that we didn't wreck anything as this was our first time in a trailer after years of tent camping. The 208 is the perfect mix of size and amenities.

A few things I wonder about after watching here for a while.
Has anyone permanently attached a ladder to the back? If so, what model and where is is safe to mount?
A Big thank you to those who have figured our the top bunk window. My daughter wants one to address the heat that builds up there (though I also think sleeping with the vent fan on would address this).
Has anyone swapped out the interior lights for something that isn't soo damn bright? I see that some of you have put these lights in-line and I can't even imagine having more than one of these lights on at a time. Other than the top bunk there are enough windows to let in soo much light which is why we chose the Apex Nano over a few other models.

Thanks Everyone and Happy Camping!
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Old 05-17-2021, 04:03 PM   #409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerogesin View Post
The awning is slow. When opening, you're suppose to open it about a foot or two, pause for a second and then open it all the way. This allows the struts equalize and prevents premature wear.

The awning switch is an issue sometimes because the voltage drop is quite high. I haven't look into this yet but if your battery is on the low side, it might not have enough juice to close the awning. You'll have to connect the 7pin to the truck and then the awning will close. I've had this happened twice.

My driveway is sloped to the road so my tongue height isn't relevant. I believe its 27" or so. But on flat ground, it should be very close to 24".

You can easily run dual 30lbs but be mindful of the increase tongue weight. The 208bhs' tongue wt is inheritently on the heavy side. I keep lighter items in the pass through and all the heavy tools in the rear dinette bench.
If the battery was low, I would have expected the slide to have some issues retracting, but it came in with out any problems. The awning actually stopped on the way in. After a few seconds of waiting it decided to slowly retract.
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Old 05-18-2021, 04:48 AM   #410
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Originally Posted by dbender View Post
If the battery was low, I would have expected the slide to have some issues retracting, but it came in with out any problems. The awning actually stopped on the way in. After a few seconds of waiting it decided to slowly retract.
I am guessing it is related to the portable power vs shore power. Though the fact that it stopped is strange. We took ours out this past weekend (first trip ever!) and I definitely noticed a difference retracting at the park on shore power vs retracting at home just off the battery. Seemed slower off the battery - but really both cases were slow in general.

First trip was a big success. Family loved it and we really enjoyed the trailer. One upgrade I think was a life saver is the electric hitch. Helps with our sway bars going on and off since it is now easy to lift the back of the truck and front of the trailer.

Also recommend grabbing some hitch ball grease. Mine would stick for the first few times we had the trailer at the house. Since putting some grease on the ball it comes out easier (so far!).

Good luck on your pickup!
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Old 05-18-2021, 07:45 PM   #411
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Grill extionsension hose - do I need a regulator?

Hey everyone.

I noticed on my first trip I had a hard time hooking up the portable grill that came with my trailer to a mini-coleman propane tank. There was just no easy/good way to hook it up while the grill was on the slide out. The adapter just fit weird and left no where for me to set the mini propane tank.

Mind you - I have no idea what I'm doing. So there may be something I'm overlooking. But my new plan is to buy one of these propane lines and run it from the valve under the RV straight to the grill. These adapters will work perfect, but do I need a regulator or can I just use the on/off valve at the gas spicket? (is that even a word?)

From what I read the gas valve under my trailer is a low pressure gas valve - so makes me think it is fine to hook direct to the grill. Then just adjust turn it on and light the grill.

Anyone else have a good setup or recommendations?
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Old 05-20-2021, 12:43 PM   #412
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Propane & Propane Accessories...

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxds View Post
Hey everyone.

I noticed on my first trip I had a hard time hooking up the portable grill that came with my trailer to a mini-coleman propane tank. There was just no easy/good way to hook it up while the grill was on the slide out. The adapter just fit weird and left no where for me to set the mini propane tank.

Mind you - I have no idea what I'm doing. So there may be something I'm overlooking. But my new plan is to buy one of these propane lines and run it from the valve under the RV straight to the grill. These adapters will work perfect, but do I need a regulator or can I just use the on/off valve at the gas spicket? (is that even a word?)

From what I read the gas valve under my trailer is a low pressure gas valve - so makes me think it is fine to hook direct to the grill. Then just adjust turn it on and light the grill.

Anyone else have a good setup or recommendations?
So, Yes you have the just of it, there are two types of propane uses. High pressure & low pressure depending on the model of grill it will be one of the two. I swapped the colman grill that came with the trailer and use a Primus model that is high pressure thus has no regulator. Because all the appliances in the trailer are low pressure I can't use the hose hook-up under the trailer. As I never even took the grill that came with the trailer out of the box I can't comment on what type it is.

But if you have a grill that dose use a regulator you can by-pass it and run off the trailer system. For example my folding BBQ has a regulator that I can detach and hook in a quick connect line and it works just fine. FYI the space between the back of the trailer and the pull out rack under the counter top in the outdoor kitchen is a great spot to stash the little green propane bottles, you can stock 4 of them back there and keeps everything handy in the same spot. I hope this helps you out.
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Old 05-20-2021, 01:29 PM   #413
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Originally Posted by B.Boudens View Post
So, Yes you have the just of it, there are two types of propane uses. High pressure & low pressure depending on the model of grill it will be one of the two. I swapped the colman grill that came with the trailer and use a Primus model that is high pressure thus has no regulator. Because all the appliances in the trailer are low pressure I can't use the hose hook-up under the trailer. As I never even took the grill that came with the trailer out of the box I can't comment on what type it is.

But if you have a grill that dose use a regulator you can by-pass it and run off the trailer system. For example my folding BBQ has a regulator that I can detach and hook in a quick connect line and it works just fine. FYI the space between the back of the trailer and the pull out rack under the counter top in the outdoor kitchen is a great spot to stash the little green propane bottles, you can stock 4 of them back there and keeps everything handy in the same spot. I hope this helps you out.
Thanks that does help explain some things I was not sure about. I have this hose arriving tomorrow so I'll test it out and see what explodes. =)
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Old 05-20-2021, 05:58 PM   #414
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Solar Power!

Hello everyone, finally had some time today to surf around on the forum toady. Iíd figured I take the time to share my latest mod of a direct to the batteries solar hook up for a portable panel. A few weeks ago, I managed to pick up a used 120 watt portable solar kit. Being an older model, it didnít have the SAE hook ups to connect into the side of the trailer and only came with alligator clips to hook up to the batteries. After some research and consultations with a couple of my electrician buddies I decided to hard wire directly to the batteries. The benefits are:

A) D.C. current is ďlazyĒ current as described by one of my friends. Itís further for the current to travel running from the panel to the converter then back to the batteries (as far as I can understand how the trailer wiring works) I used #10 solid copper wire to optimize the path of least resistance for the current. The wires in the 15 ft cord are #12 stranded mostly because this keeps the cord flexible. I was told that it would be a good match.

B) I can charge my batteries while they are still isolated from the rest of the trailer with the disconnect.

C) Mounting the connection at the tongue of the trailer gives me an extra five feet of distance from the shadows of the trailer. Allowing me to park in the shade and place the panel in the sun. When not in use the Anderson connector tucks up into the plate for the jack and I tie it off with one of those flex ties so it doesnít dangle below the frame.

D) It leaves the side prep open for expansion if I want to add another panel with out any extra modifications.

I ordered a couple plug-ins from the panel manufacture kept one for a spare or if a friend needed a charge up. I cut and spliced the other one to make my connection then cleaned up all the loose wiring while I was at it with automotive wire protector because, why not? The panel does have a 10 amp. charge controller but no way to inform me of the batteries state of charge other than blinking green lights. But according to my volt reader the panel charges at 14.7 volts and floats at 13.1 when the batteries are full. Disconnected and fully charged my batteries will read 12.7 volts. I havenít had a chance to test it out in the field, but I no longer have to plug into shore power to keep my batteries toped off. And at 1/3 the price of buying the same kit new!

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Old 05-21-2021, 08:56 AM   #415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B.Boudens View Post
Hello everyone, finally had some time today to surf around on the forum toady. Iíd figured I take the time to share my latest mod of a direct to the batteries solar hook up for a portable panel. A few weeks ago, I managed to pick up a used 120 watt portable solar kit. Being an older model, it didnít have the SAE hook ups to connect into the side of the trailer and only came with alligator clips to hook up to the batteries. After some research and consultations with a couple of my electrician buddies I decided to hard wire directly to the batteries. The benefits are:

A) D.C. current is ďlazyĒ current as described by one of my friends. Itís further for the current to travel running from the panel to the converter then back to the batteries (as far as I can understand how the trailer wiring works) I used #10 solid copper wire to optimize the path of least resistance for the current. The wires in the 15 ft cord are #12 stranded mostly because this keeps the cord flexible. I was told that it would be a good match.

B) I can charge my batteries while they are still isolated from the rest of the trailer with the disconnect.

C) Mounting the connection at the tongue of the trailer gives me an extra five feet of distance from the shadows of the trailer. Allowing me to park in the shade and place the panel in the sun. When not in use the Anderson connector tucks up into the plate for the jack and I tie it off with one of those flex ties so it doesnít dangle below the frame.

D) It leaves the side prep open for expansion if I want to add another panel with out any extra modifications.

I ordered a couple plug-ins from the panel manufacture kept one for a spare or if a friend needed a charge up. I cut and spliced the other one to make my connection then cleaned up all the loose wiring while I was at it with automotive wire protector because, why not? The panel does have a 10 amp. charge controller but no way to inform me of the batteries state of charge other than blinking green lights. But according to my volt reader the panel charges at 14.7 volts and floats at 13.1 when the batteries are full. Disconnected and fully charged my batteries will read 12.7 volts. I havenít had a chance to test it out in the field, but I no longer have to plug into shore power to keep my batteries toped off. And at 1/3 the price of buying the same kit new!

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Very clean install. I like all the wiring conduit to keep things clean. I did the same and used zip ties to keep it all together.

An option you couldve done was order a zamp connector and connect it directly to the solar port on the side. The factory solar prep is rated for 20amp as there is a 20amp atc fuse as well. I use di-electric grease on all the connectors to minimize resistance as much as possible.

I have a 100w renogy suitcase kit which includes a 20a voyager mppt charge controller. It can produce 7-7.5amp on full mid-day sun which is pretty decent. The charge controller could also accomodate a second panel if needed.
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Old 05-21-2021, 12:21 PM   #416
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Talking Gearing up for the next mod.

@ Gerogesin. Thanks, I did tidy the wiring up a little more after I took the pics and do use a small amount of dia-electric grease to cove my terminals, also helps to prevent corrosion. Never checked how many amps the panel puts out, but next time for sure it'll be nice to know.

I do have a few questions a for you regarding the Moryde system if you don't mind as I've checked the clearance numbers, ordered the parts and will tackle this mod in a few weeks.

Did you jack up the entire trailer and remove all the tires or just do one side at a time? I have the resources do totally remove the axles but whatever method would be less hassle is the way I want to go.

On my trailer the center equalizer hangs in the bottom hole of center bracket but on the end brackets the leaf ends are mounted in the upper holds. I have know idea why they would do that other than the difference of ride height of a standard Apex vs and off grid model. If I moved the outer bolts and leaf spring ends down to the bottom holes, would that affect my ride height? I'm thinking so. Anyone's input would be beneficial here. My truck sits low as it is, and my shank for my hitch is already maxed out for height adjustments, so I am loath to raise the height of the trailer.

How did you press the brass bushings into place?

Has it upgrade really made much of a difference in ride and or handling if you have had an chance a chance to take the trailer out on trip yet?

How long did this project take? I'm considering bribing our shop mechanic into helping me out but don't want to eat up to much of his time

Thanks so much for blazing the trail and for the input.

Cheers and happy long weekend everyone!
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Old 05-21-2021, 04:30 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B.Boudens View Post
@ Gerogesin. Thanks, I did tidy the wiring up a little more after I took the pics and do use a small amount of dia-electric grease to cove my terminals, also helps to prevent corrosion. Never checked how many amps the panel puts out, but next time for sure it'll be nice to know.

I do have a few questions a for you regarding the Moryde system if you don't mind as I've checked the clearance numbers, ordered the parts and will tackle this mod in a few weeks.

Did you jack up the entire trailer and remove all the tires or just do one side at a time? I have the resources do totally remove the axles but whatever method would be less hassle is the way I want to go.

On my trailer the center equalizer hangs in the bottom hole of center bracket but on the end brackets the leaf ends are mounted in the upper holds. I have know idea why they would do that other than the difference of ride height of a standard Apex vs and off grid model. If I moved the outer bolts and leaf spring ends down to the bottom holes, would that affect my ride height? I'm thinking so. Anyone's input would be beneficial here. My truck sits low as it is, and my shank for my hitch is already maxed out for height adjustments, so I am loath to raise the height of the trailer.

How did you press the brass bushings into place?

Has it upgrade really made much of a difference in ride and or handling if you have had an chance a chance to take the trailer out on trip yet?

How long did this project take? I'm considering bribing our shop mechanic into helping me out but don't want to eat up to much of his time

Thanks so much for blazing the trail and for the input.

Cheers and happy long weekend everyone!
I highly recommend this mod and it really makes a noticeable difference in smoothness. I had about 10,000miles on the trailer before I made the upgrade and the factory nylon bushings weren't as bad as what YouTube videos were showing. But the ride comfort after the upgrade was worth it,110%.

I only jacked one side up at a time and had no issues. I only needed 1 jack. A 12mm socket was perfect for pushing out the old nylon bushing and for the new brass bushings , I gently tapped it in with a rubber mallet.

Both my equalizer and spring was mounted on the bottom hole. I have the 2019 model and I'm pretty sure there were no off road version. You can see in the pics below. I also wiped away the excess grease as it does nothing but attract dirt and debris.

The equalizer didn't add any change to the ride height. I will probably weld some metal plates to reinforce all the hanger. Good luck with the work! It's a pretty easy job to do.
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Old 05-28-2021, 11:24 PM   #418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redapex View Post
So we are due to pick up our new 208 on the 28th. Apparently they couldnít get it with the off road package. Not a deal breaker for me. I can upgrade later if I want. So same question. For those of you without the off road package how high is the hitch on the trailer when it is level (not hooked up to the tow vehicle)
Also I just picked up an Andersen WHD. Anyone using this with the 208?
Iíve heard a couple people say it doesnít distribute enough weight on heavier trailers, but then others say itís just a set up issue. Thoughts?
did you order it or was this dealer stock order?
if ordered how long has it been since you ordered it?
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Old 05-29-2021, 06:51 AM   #419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerogesin View Post
I highly recommend this mod and it really makes a noticeable difference in smoothness. I had about 10,000miles on the trailer before I made the upgrade and the factory nylon bushings weren't as bad as what YouTube videos were showing. But the ride comfort after the upgrade was worth it,110%.

I only jacked one side up at a time and had no issues. I only needed 1 jack. A 12mm socket was perfect for pushing out the old nylon bushing and for the new brass bushings , I gently tapped it in with a rubber mallet.

Both my equalizer and spring was mounted on the bottom hole. I have the 2019 model and I'm pretty sure there were no off road version. You can see in the pics below. I also wiped away the excess grease as it does nothing but attract dirt and debris.

The equalizer didn't add any change to the ride height. I will probably weld some metal plates to reinforce all the hanger. Good luck with the work! It's a pretty easy job to do.
Morryde make a product that ties the hangers together. They are there "X" factor braces. Might be worth a look.
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Old 05-29-2021, 06:53 AM   #420
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These are the braces.

https://www.amazon.com/MORryde-UO21-.../dp/B007HRXZT2
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