Freedom Express Battery

DennisB56 · 07-22-2018, 10:37 AM

Hello
The battery in my FE192RBS was dead this morning. It's been sitting idle unplugged for at least 3 weeks. Is this unusual? What load/draw would there be with nothing turned on or in use? The battery was brand new when we got the trailer in June.
Thanks
Dennis

**Flybob** · 07-22-2018, 11:01 AM

Yes very normal. There are several always on parasitic draw items that will kill a battery in two weeks. The CO/Propane detector, DVD player and any remote controlled device.

There are several options.
1. Keep the RV connected to shore power when parked.
2. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery when parked.
3. Add a battery disconnect switch.
4. Add a battery tender or solar charger .
I suggest you charge the battery with an automotive charger before using the converter in the RV to charge it.

Teetime · 07-22-2018, 11:03 AM

I'll be watching to see the responses on this.

We keep ours plugged in to shore power when parked at home. When in storage disconnect both posts so don't take any chances of a drain.

You may just need to put a charger or battery tender on it to bring it back up. Then read it to see if it is holding a full charge while disconnected. A 12V battery at full charge after sitting a while should still hold somewhere around 12.8V, more or less depending on the battery.

CHICKDOE · 07-22-2018, 11:51 AM

very common. i had this problem when the trailer was in storage, even with the factory installed disconnect switch set to disconnect the batteries. i installed my own disconnect switch with fully disconnects one battery lead. no problems now, the batteries hold their charge. one warning, if the unit is a trailer you have to reconnect the batteries before you tow so that the emergency brakes have power.

DennisB56 · 07-22-2018, 06:12 PM

Thanks everyone for the replies. I've looked into a few things currently my battery is hooked up to a trickle charger in the garage. I'm going to get a disconnect switch, should this go in the negative side or the positive side or doesnt it matter?

DennisB56 · 07-22-2018, 06:14 PM

Flybob,
Thanks for your service!
Dennis

Witch Doctor · 07-22-2018, 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DennisB56

Thanks everyone for the replies. I've looked into a few things currently my battery is hooked up to a trickle charger in the garage. I'm going to get a disconnect switch, should this go in the negative side or the positive side or doesnt it matter?

Really makes no difference, but on this topic most members will recommend the negative side. A lot of threads on this subject.

Teetime · 07-22-2018, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DennisB56

Thanks everyone for the replies. I've looked into a few things currently my battery is hooked up to a trickle charger in the garage. I'm going to get a disconnect switch, should this go in the negative side or the positive side or doesnt it matter?

Does lightning strike up or down? Many opinions, I disconnect both posts when in storage and not on shore power at home or camping.

clr · 07-22-2018, 09:36 PM

It really does not matter much witch of the leads you disconnect with the battery disconnect switch. As long as one of the leads is disconnected all the associated battery loads will be disconnected. It is all about how you look at the current flow + to - or - to + but in both cases you need a complete series circuit to operate.
In my case I always disconnect the positive cable just because the unit uses the frame of the trailer to complete the - path in many cases.

ataylo53 · 07-31-2018, 09:44 PM

Do you keep refrigerator "on"? Is it a Dometic dual fuel version? If yes to both, then it is the refrigerator draining your battery. The controls require 12v continuously, but that isn't taking much out of the battery. There is a heat strip around the door that will suck your battery dry. I put a switch and a relay in my refrigerator control box outside. When I'm on 12v only, the power to the interior fridge light and the heat strip are de-energized. When connected to 120v, the relay makes and the interior fridge light works as does the heat strip. The switch I installed is a manual bypass for the relay. Battery will still be drawn down though, due to the draw of the fridge controls, CO detector and entertainment center, but it takes much longer now.

kujosp · 08-10-2018, 07:51 AM

I knew there would be + vs - comments in here lol. Need a battery disconnect mounted to your battery case. Negative or positive are equally fine. I personally put it on the negative for a very screwed reasoning that jumper cables are negative off first and on second due to short circuit chances. Either is fine.

DennisB56 · 08-11-2018, 09:14 PM

Installed a switch on the negative cable. Charged the battery and now leave the switch off unless I'm planning on using the trailer.
Thanks everyone

sweet lou · 08-16-2018, 12:08 PM

This is just my opinion, I would always disconnect the negative first. Because if the wrench were to touch metal removing positive first big-time short. I know on your trailer it's in the open. But on cars and trucks totally different story. I know people that have had their wedding band welded and big burn (not me).

Thurman · 08-19-2018, 01:06 AM

" if the unit is a trailer you have to reconnect the batteries before you tow so that the emergency brakes have power" I disagree with this statement. I have not seen a TT or 5-er nor a cargo trailer with "Emergency" brakes that uses the main battery to supply 12vDC to the "Emergency" brakes of the unit. The "Emergency" brakes system usually has it's own 12vDC battery which is about 1/4 the size of the main battery and in it's own little box.

**bikendan** · 08-19-2018, 04:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thurman

The "Emergency" brakes system usually has it's own 12vDC battery which is about 1/4 the size of the main battery and in it's own little box.

you are incorrect. TT emergency brake systems use the trailer's battery, NOT a separate small battery, like a utility trailer uses.

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