Freshwater tank supports

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by 270S

I custom manufactured my own 4" Tbar from 1/4" bar stock. It was not available stock plus I welded on flat plates on the side so I could bolt it to the TT frame allowing future maintenance, ... vs welding it in permanently. Everything is bolted with SS Bolts together vs welded allowing 100% removal for tank replacement should it ever be required.

You can see it in the 4th picture (2nd from bottom) with sides on the 4" Tbar. I'll include a pic as I am bolting the 5 2" Tbar fore and aft supports to the 2 horizontal 4" Tbars. If you look carefully you can see the holes already drilled in the side plates. The width of the 2 horizontal 4" Tbars is only 1/8" less than the width between the 2 frame members. It was difficult/tight trying to insert them, but tight is right.

FYI, I am a marine OEM. I am appalled by what I have seen and experienced in the RV industry over the last 15 months! FR reimbursed me for the materials ($275), but the 4 figured labor charge for fabrication I had to "EAT".

270S, that's beautiful work. I've welded steel, let's see, zero times and aluminum even less! I know it requires skill to do well.

If I every get around to opening the belly and addressing this issue I will probably be looking for an angle-iron-and-fastener solution.

[m35a2]

Originally Posted by BandJCarm

OK. Possibly I misunderstood.

There's lots on this thing I wish was different, for sure. I just doubt I could have afforded it had it been made to MY specs.

I'll report back when I get it back from dealer.

I was just looking at custom built New Horizons 5'ers.
Holy sticker shock Batman!

[Mr Havercamp]

As far as claims overfilling the tank pushes against the floor and causes the angles to bend, I can see that happening however......

Here is a picture clearly showing the water level in the tank when mine bent. This was the first time the tank had seen water and was filled by the tech during the PDI while I was standing there. I had him leave the water in the tank to see how it towed on the way home (70 miles). The tank was approximately 2/3 full or 26 gallons, (216 lbs). The angles bent solely due to weight this time.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp

As far as claims overfilling the tank pushes against the floor and causes the angles to bend, I can see that happening however......

Here is a picture clearly showing the water level in the tank when mine bent. This was the first time the tank had seen water and was filled by the tech during the PDI while I was standing there. I had him leave the water in the tank to see how it towed on the way home (70 miles). The tank was approximately 2/3 full or 26 gallons, (216 lbs). The angles bent solely due to weight this time.

How do you overfill a tank? Mine has an overflow vent where the water comes pouring out. Are FRs different than other brands?

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by 325BH

How do you overfill a tank? Mine has an overflow vent where the water comes pouring out. Are FRs different than other brands?

You can jam a hose in the gravity fill with strong pressure and overload the vent and the remaining free space around the hose.........in theory.

I am not sure your going to pressurize the tank all that much though.

[325BH]

Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp

You can jam a hose in the gravity fill with strong pressure and overload the vent and the remaining free space around the hose.........in theory.

I am not sure your going to pressurize the tank all that much though.

On my tank the fresh fill and city water are one in the same, chosen by a valve. So my fresh fill has the hose screw in.

There is a separate vent where water comes out. That vent is basically the same size pipe/pex as the fill. I guess a fast flowing water source could outrun the overfill... until the tank is at the same pressure as the water source.

Had to think about it for a bit.

I'll have to pay more attention when I fill from now on.

[BandJCarm]

Originally Posted by 325BH

How do you overfill a tank? Mine has an overflow vent where the water comes pouring out. Are FRs different than other brands?

Easy. Just put more water pressure going into the tank than that overflow tube can handle going out.

Also, either the overflow vent or the breather tube can get stuck during manufacturing between the tank and the angle iron.....pinching it shut! If no air can leave as water goes in, the tank will buckle. Took mine into shop yesterday for a whole new tank and assembly, because of that. If I had had max welded supports under the tank, my floor would have buckled beyond repair. As it was, the tank expansion ruined the straps and bent the angle iron, but no floor damage.

Pics available.....

[gserve]

Update. The dealer has ordered new supports for the fresh water tank. We will see.

[270S]

if all they are doing is replacing an undersized support that failed with a new one, it will certainly fail too. Best of Luck.

[gserve]

Not sure if there using the same ones.

[Nickrenfro]

So ,is it safe to go camping with a full tank of water---Has there been any news of a water tank falling out??

[HangDiver]

Yes tanks have fallen out. I would recommend that you find a water source close to your camp site (gas station, USFS Office, restaurant, etc) and fill up close to where you will park. Likewise, not eveyone has this problem.

[Bobaloo]

Before I repaired mine I took a medium duty ratchet strap and put it across the frame near the center of the tank and used this as a little insurance that I had the extra support. Just be careful of the drain and move over a little from center.
Bob

[Nickrenfro]

Thanks--i suppose i could do that..I would have to remove the large insulated cover on the under side..The strap could work till the end of camping season and i could install some extra braces myself...thank you..nick

[Nickrenfro]

Did you have to beg and plee to have them replace the brackets ?

[Nickrenfro]

Contacted Freedom express on my sagging h20 tank--They want me take it to Denver to be looked at (80 miles) would take weeks for them to look at it---decided to do it myself,so i can camp next week....Well,took off the mount c-channel--very light weight--measured all--went to the local steel company and purchased stronger c-channel--2x1x3/16 20'foot long(around 8 ft. left over)--had them cut the lengths needed from a 20 ft. piece..$8.00 for the cuts----$55.86 for the steel..Also got several extra wiring loom brkts. to isolate the outer wiring from rubbing on new steel-pre drill using the old channel---put the c channel on a couple of jack stands to hold up in place..Place a floor jack in the middle to raise the metal when needed--drill trailer frame thru the c channel--drop new bolts from the top thru frame and c channel..might want to make the holes a tad larger for easy fit--then lock washers--cant use washers because they hit the center portion of the i-beam frame--the holes were drilled to close to center from the factory--Took around 5 hours by my self --a little help would have been great----hope this helps someone else--questions ? Nick

[HangDiver]

Originally Posted by Nickrenfro

Took around 5 hours by my self --a little help would have been great----hope this helps someone else--questions ? Nick

Sounds like you have it taken care of. Post some photos when you can.

Good luck!

[Nickrenfro]

here is some photos of repair

[MikeHalloran]

Photo attached of another way.
Repair comprises:
two unequal leg zinc plated steel angles x 6 ft.
one equal leg zinc plated steel angle x 5 ft.
held together in the shape of an I-beam, or really a channel with an extra flange,
secured to each other with a bunch of 1/4" bolts, washers and elastic stop nuts,
with the beam secured to the Lippert frame with four self-drilling screws at each end.

It is applied toward the rear of the FW tank, without removing the bottom insulation.

So far it's worked okay on my Forest River Coachmen Apex 288BHS.

... from which the original light steel angle fell, and is now secured with two self-drilling screws at each end.