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Old 05-05-2018, 10:34 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teetime View Post
It depends on what else is running, the adapter will not let you pull 30 amps like the RV outlet. You should not run the AC on the adapter, and if you have the fridge running along with anything else like the blow dryer, you may get a surge to trip the breaker. If you are only wanting to get your fridge cold and run some simple AC stuff, the adapter will do the trick. But if you want to have full service, including AC while at home, wire up the 30 AMP RV outlet.
I'm going to help Teetime just a hair, and clarify what could be confusing terminology for someone, as AC was used as a term for two different things in his post above.

You can have AC used for "alternating current" which is what a normal house uses as in 120 volt AC for a 15 amp outlet. Your RV will use a 120 volt AC, 30 amp outlet.

AC is also used as an abbreviation for air conditioner. It's usually best when doing that, so it doesn't get confused with "alternating current" is to type it as A/C.

AC= alternating current

A/C= air conditioner

We do kinda keep a list of forum/rv abbreviations you may encounter at this link:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...sms-50510.html

It is easier to follow as this edited version below

Quote:
Originally Posted by Teetime View Post
It depends on what else is running, the adapter will not let you pull 30 amps like the RV outlet. You should not run the A/C on the adapter, and if you have the fridge running along with anything else like the blow dryer, you may get a surge to trip the breaker. If you are only wanting to get your fridge cold and run some simple AC stuff, the adapter will do the trick. But if you want to have full service, including A/C while at home, wire up the 30 AMP RV outlet.
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Old 05-05-2018, 12:45 PM   #22
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Safety stuff:
Lug nut, jack to replace blown RV tire.
Don't forget to retorque those lugnuts after 50-100 miles on a new travel trailer
Leveling blocks.
Air compressor
Tire pressure gauge.
Basic tool box
WD40
Lighters
Flashlights
Squirt bottle full of diesel to start campfire
Decent wheel chaulks
Battery disconnect switch if your camper didn't come with one.

Dump grey/black water at time when dump station is not busy. Don't want to be rushed and have witnesses if you screw up.

Sanitize fresh water tanks and water lines before first use. Warning; some RV will have water tank fall out when towed with full tanks. I reinforce every tank on every RV I have purchased to prevent this from happening.
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Old 05-05-2018, 10:49 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyliner View Post
Safety stuff:
Lug nut, jack to replace blown RV tire.
Don't forget to retorque those lugnuts after 50-100 miles on a new travel trailer
Leveling blocks.
Air compressor
Tire pressure gauge.
Basic tool box
WD40
Lighters
Flashlights
Squirt bottle full of diesel to start campfire
Decent wheel chaulks
Battery disconnect switch if your camper didn't come with one.

Dump grey/black water at time when dump station is not busy. Don't want to be rushed and have witnesses if you screw up.

Sanitize fresh water tanks and water lines before first use. Warning; some RV will have water tank fall out when towed with full tanks. I reinforce every tank on every RV I have purchased to prevent this from happening.
Really good ideas here! thank you!
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Old 05-05-2018, 10:52 PM   #24
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Any ideas for adding a ladder to the bunks for the kid? I'm considering a telescoping ladder so it an be used on the exterior as well.
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Old 05-06-2018, 12:04 AM   #25
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Any ideas for adding a ladder to the bunks for the kid? I'm considering a telescoping ladder so it an be used on the exterior as well.
The problem with a telescoping ladder is how do you secure it while they not-so-gently go up and down it? Right now, in my toy hauler, we have the bed set in-between the 2 ladder heights and on the opposite side where itís supposed to go. Iím using a big C-clamp and a ratchet strap to hold it into place.

For me in the last rig, we opted for a nice wooden bunk bed ladder. We got it from Amazon. We hooked it right over the bed edge and it worked well.

Otherwise, there are metal RV bunk ladders that work. Theyíre just not as kind on the feet.
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Old 05-06-2018, 12:00 PM   #26
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Thanks for the input everyone. Any suggestions on how to carry a kayak and paddle board as well?
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Old 05-06-2018, 12:10 PM   #27
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Thanks for the input everyone. Any suggestions on how to carry a kayak and paddle board as well?
You'll need some kind of elevated rack on the truck bed.
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Old 05-06-2018, 12:32 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
I'm going to help Teetime just a hair, and clarify what could be confusing terminology for someone, as AC was used as a term for two different things in his post above.

You can have AC used for "alternating current" which is what a normal house uses as in 120 volt AC for a 15 amp outlet. Your RV will use a 120 volt AC, 30 amp outlet.

AC is also used as an abbreviation for air conditioner. It's usually best when doing that, so it doesn't get confused with "alternating current" is to type it as A/C.

AC= alternating current

A/C= air conditioner

We do kinda keep a list of forum/rv abbreviations you may encounter at this link:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...sms-50510.html

It is easier to follow as this edited version below
Was my punctuation OK?
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Old 05-06-2018, 01:36 PM   #29
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Was my punctuation OK?
It is easy to get confused by air conditioning and alternating current. You are ok, WM was only trying to help those who are new to RV'ing and prevent confusion. Many people don't know that RV's run on two types of electricity. Some components such as the fridge need 12 volts for the control board and either propane or a 120 volts alternating current rod heater for it to cool.

There is a lot to learn about RVs and knowledge can save your pork butt on a camping trip. For example, I had no air conditioning once. I had 120 volts alternating current power at the air conditioner's control board but no 12 volt power at the thermostat. I saved our trip when I found a 12 volt DC fuse on the air conditioner's control board. It was 98 deg F outside and we took our camper for a family reunion in lieu of staying at a hotel.
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Old 05-06-2018, 01:49 PM   #30
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Thank you! Most of the stuff you listed is already in my Amazon cart !


Put a notepad and pen in your camper to make notes as you camp. We've been RVing for a long time and still do that. There are lots of things we consider must haves, many of which are listed, but I also like to have a splitter for the water faucet connection. That way I can use the water at the faucet AND have it connected to the camper. Alternatively you can just leave your outside shower open but I find it very convenient to be able to either hook up an extra hose or just leave it available to simply turn the diverter valve and run water at the source without having to unhook the camper water hose.

Also, I like my clear plastic sewer hose elbow. You connect it to the end of your sewer hose so the clear elbow is at the outlet from the camper. That way when you are dumping you know that your gray tank is empty and you can run your black tank flusher long enough to ensure that the water runs completely clear so you KNOW the black tank is empty .
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Old 05-06-2018, 08:31 PM   #31
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Great ideas!

Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyCamper1962 View Post

Put a notepad and pen in your camper to make notes as you camp. We've been RVing for a long time and still do that.

Great Idea!

There are lots of things we consider must haves, many of which are listed, but I also like to have a splitter for the water faucet connection.

I thought about this as well, being a engineer.

That way I can use the water at the faucet AND have it connected to the camper. Alternatively you can just leave your outside shower open but I find it very convenient to be able to either hook up an extra hose or just leave it available to simply turn the diverter valve and run water at the source without having to unhook the camper water hose.

Also, I like my clear plastic sewer hose elbow.

Bought one of these! I got the one that have the water connection to it to flush the black tank as well.

You connect it to the end of your sewer hose so the clear elbow is at the outlet from the camper. That way when you are dumping you know that your gray tank is empty and you can run your black tank flusher long enough to ensure that the water runs completely clear so you KNOW the black tank is empty .
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Old 05-06-2018, 08:33 PM   #32
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My wife put this together when we started.

RV Checklist: What to pack for an RV Trip | Cook Eat Travel Repeat
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Old 05-06-2018, 08:49 PM   #33
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I was dewinterizing by flushing the lines and thought about this exact point. How much bleach should I add to run through the lines to sanatize?

Also took this pic of the fresh water tank. Think I need to add any additional support? I was thinking about adding Uni-strut if needed.

Quote:
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Sanitize fresh water tanks and water lines before first use. Warning; some RV will have water tank fall out when towed with full tanks. I reinforce every tank on every RV I have purchased to prevent this from happening.
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