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Old 02-08-2020, 07:35 PM   #21
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I have projects in mind for this year like upgrading my in dash stereo receiver with a double din multimedia system with GPS, and I have a Blue Ox dinghy towing package quote to mull over.

A second A.C. to go in the bedroom sounds tempting!
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Old 02-09-2020, 09:38 AM   #22
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Sometimes we are better off selling our units, and buying a new one ???

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Old 02-09-2020, 10:06 AM   #23
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Sometimes we are better off selling our units, and buying a new one ???

Problem with that is that you are starting all over with the fixes that come with all RV's.... Better to take on one new one after the others have already been addressed. Also a lot cheaper to replace one AC unit as opposed to trading and buying new.....
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Old 02-09-2020, 10:10 AM   #24
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Buying newer or new is definitely a calculation to make. I found I cant measure that decision solely on monetary value - I know what I've got vs. the unknowns of new. My own unit had issues to resolve requiring down time and I also know what needs TLC and its maintenance. And I know what normal operating feels like, not sure I want to relive all that at 66 and going forward.

Now, back to upgrades!

Chris

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Sometimes we are better off selling our units, and buying a new one ???

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Old 02-09-2020, 10:11 AM   #25
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Problem with that is that you are starting all over with the fixes that come with all RV's.... Better to take on one new one after the others have already been addressed. Also a lot cheaper to replace one AC unit as opposed to trading and buying new.....
Very True,,, As long as you end up with a SAFE Unit !!!
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Old 02-09-2020, 11:17 AM   #26
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I also did this,i used a colman mach 8ps(power saver)it is 13,500 btu and only draws 10amps,works well a little noisey but I only run on low fan and still sleep,used wire mold and rec.i installed next to shore power connection
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Old 02-09-2020, 11:38 AM   #27
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We did it on a 30A unit. This will not work everywhere.

We had a Toyhauler. 1st we ran a small panel box with two breakers inside on the wall of the garage area. We used 2 30A cords one to the trailers original power supply one to the new panel. (On the pedestal one to the 30A outlet one to the 50A outlet).

The new panel fed some new outlets as well so we could run an electric heater in the winter and to the new second AC and a mini fridge.

Worked great for 5 years until we traded.

Check for a thread by turbs he did a similar mod a few years back.

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Old 02-13-2020, 07:59 PM   #28
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Watched a few you tube videos and I want to add a second AC in the Bedroom of my Freedom Express 281RLDS... Looks fairly straight forward and not too difficult to install and hook up with a separate 20 Amp exterior plug....

Jus wondering if anyone on the Forum has ACTUALLY done this? Would be interested in what unit you did install, how difficult was it, and does it work well.... I am thinking about a Coleman Low Profile non ducted in the Bedroom....

All information would be greatly appreciated....
Easy install, but you will get very tired of the noise of the non ducted unit in the bedroom area.
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Old 02-13-2020, 08:08 PM   #29
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Easy install, but you will get very tired of the noise of the non ducted unit in the bedroom area.
2006 Sunseeker 2860DS with rear slide bedroom. I cant sleep without a fan and fan noise but the idea of an A.C. fan overhead is just too much noise for me to consider it. We have 2 small fans, sometimes a 3rd small fan on the floor, circulating A.C. air from the main coach and I get chilly at night. The idea of A.C. in the bedroom itself sounds good, but....
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Old 02-13-2020, 08:17 PM   #30
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On a properly wired pole, one side of the 50 amp line also connects to the 30 amp service. The other side of the 50 amp service also connects to the 20 amp service. So using a 30 amp and the 20 amp will give you a total of 50 amp. However, using a 50 amp and a 30 amp or a 50 amp and a 20 amp still only gives you 50 amps for each leg.
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Old 02-13-2020, 08:25 PM   #31
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However, using a 50 amp and a 30 amp or a 50 amp and a 20 amp still only gives you 50 amps for each leg.
You will only be able to draw 30A from the 30A outlet and only 20A from the 20A outlet.
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Old 02-13-2020, 08:34 PM   #32
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Correct.
So if you use two wires running to the pole, one to the 30 amp plug and one to the 20 amp plug you will have a total of 50 useable amps.
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Old 02-13-2020, 08:35 PM   #33
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When I added it to my C Class I just run a cord from 2nd ac with cord right to pedestal. 110 plug never had a problem ever.
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Old 02-13-2020, 08:37 PM   #34
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This is the best mod we have done to the trailer!

You usually just run it during the hot days to help the main unit and leave it off at night.

It is very easy to do if you have a vent in the roof. I would suggest using a 30amp receptacle (and cord) as it gives you the most flexibility and best connectivity. If you only have a 20amp plug you can get the 20amp to 30amp adapter. If you have a 50amp you can get a dogleg that pulls from two different legs or a 50amp to 30amp adapter either of these options leaves the 30amp pedestal plug for the trailer.
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Old 02-13-2020, 10:31 PM   #35
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While we do not need a 2nd AC unit in our camper, we have been considering adding an independent second electrical connection. It would be 20 AMP rated and would be used for countertop appliances with a high current draw, like my rotisserie or bread maker... without impacting the regular electrical system. One 20 AMP outlet in the galley area and one 20 AMP outlet outside under the awning, all wired with 12 gauge wire and protected by a separate 20 AMP breaker.

My plan at the moment is use a 20 AMP twistlock receptacle on the outside of the camper and custom build a heavy 12 gauge cord with the required male & female plugs on the ends. That will make the configuration very similar to the 30 AMP RV connection already there.
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Old 02-13-2020, 11:30 PM   #36
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On a properly wired pole, one side of the 50 amp line also connects to the 30 amp service. The other side of the 50 amp service also connects to the 20 amp service. So using a 30 amp and the 20 amp will give you a total of 50 amp. However, using a 50 amp and a 30 amp or a 50 amp and a 20 amp still only gives you 50 amps for each leg.
This is totally incorrect. A properly wired to code PED 50 is for the 50 outlet only. The 30 is for the 30 outlet and 20 is for the 20 outlet.
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Old 02-13-2020, 11:35 PM   #37
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While we do not need a 2nd AC unit in our camper, we have been considering adding an independent second electrical connection. It would be 20 AMP rated and would be used for countertop appliances with a high current draw, like my rotisserie or bread maker... without impacting the regular electrical system. One 20 AMP outlet in the galley area and one 20 AMP outlet outside under the awning, all wired with 12 gauge wire and protected by a separate 20 AMP breaker.

My plan at the moment is use a 20 AMP twistlock receptacle on the outside of the camper and custom build a heavy 12 gauge cord with the required male & female plugs on the ends. That will make the configuration very similar to the 30 AMP RV connection already there.
I did the same with my Keystone. I drilled a hole thru the floor of the slide and installed a male plug on the end of the wire. I use a 50' 12 ga extension cord.
The same cord I mow the grass with.
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Old 02-13-2020, 11:44 PM   #38
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I did the same with my Keystone. I drilled a hole thru the floor of the slide and installed a male plug on the end of the wire. I use a 50' 12 ga extension cord.
I would over engineer it with 10gauge wire. That way you know you are compensating for any line loss. When we go to stay with friends no one has a 30 amp outlet so I carry a 10gauge extension cord. I never have any problems with ends getting hot. The only problem is when the AC is on and the wife turns on her hair dryer.
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Old 02-14-2020, 12:00 AM   #39
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I would over engineer it with 10gauge wire. That way you know you are compensating for any line loss. When we go to stay with friends no one has a 30 amp outlet so I carry a 10gauge extension cord. I never have any problems with ends getting hot. The only problem is when the AC is on and the wife turns on her hair dryer.
Mine is for a single outlet under the dining table. No need for 10 ga wire. Lawn mower is only 12 amps.

If at a friends house I would use a 20/30 dog bone and the Trailer power cord.
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Old 02-14-2020, 08:25 AM   #40
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When I added it to my C Class I just run a cord from 2nd ac with cord right to pedestal. 110 plug never had a problem ever.

This is what I do. Replaced ceiling fan in bedroom with a/c unit an heater option. Fished a 12x2wG thru ceiling to side wall cabinet then down to lower compartment where I mounted a plug to run a separate power cord directly to pole. No wires are showing in bedroom except if you look in closet. Extra cooling in camper and modest heat in cooler weather with a noise maker for sleeping. All desirable for our wants! No problems and looks factory aside from inside closet.
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