VIking 17FQ Assembly Issues

[bbrowncods]

So I purchased my TT used from the original selling dealer when the previous owner returned it after a few months (and one weekend camping) and wanted a bigger TT. So I got a great deal but the warranty does not transfer and the Extended warranty I purchased only will fix "broken" stuff.
Given that FR pretty much just assembles the TT I started to notice a couple of obvious QA issues:
1. The BW dump valve points at a 30 degree angle down which places it below the level of the back corner drag brace. This allows the valve to scrape the ground when going over a uneven surface, which will eventually break the tank or plumbing. I can probably pull it all apart and buy new plumbing and reglue. How did that get out the door at the factory??
2. I noticed the Tank Level monitoring system reads 1/3 full when empty on the FW Tank and GW Tank. I know, it is a cheap system. So the installation instructions say to "make sure for proper operation" that the ground sensor be at least 10" from the other sensors. Well on those two tanks they are about 3"! And the frustrating thing is that there is plenty of room to put them at 10"!
3. The Refrigerator issue to me is the worst part. It takes a couple of days for the refrigerator to get cold. So I started to look at the Installation Instructions. The frig is not even close to being installed correctly! The cabinet is to be no more than 1/4" larger than the frig on the sides and top. If it is, there is required to be insulation attached to the refrigerator along the entire width and height of the unit minus 2-3 inches from the back. There is to be nothing in the ventilation area in the back, or anything touching the cooling package. There is to be a box built along the back limiting the space between the back of the TT, between the lower and upper vents, to less than an inch. This is to allow cooling air to flow around the condenser, with a WARNING that failure to comply with these restrictions may result in fire!

So mine is sitting in a hole that is at least 2 inches larger all the way around with small handfuls of fiberglass batting shoved in the spaces. The plumbing for the sink drain is blocking the flow of air around the accumulator and the frig is actually pushed up against it. No box directing flow of cooling air around the condenser.

Take your vent covers off and look inside that space. The frig should be tight in there with no gaps between it and the unit. I think you will be surprised!

Rant over.

BB

[La Plata View]

BB,

Our 2014 17FQ should be identical to yours with some minor changes between the model years.

1. On ours the BW dump pivots from horizontal to nearly straight down. I believe this allows it to gain additional clearance unless you're "dumping". The pivot joint is tight enough it won't rattle out of position. If yours won't move then maybe it got a bit too much glue during assembly.

2. So far the tank sensors seem to read fairly accurately but I take them as a ballpark reading at best. You said the instructions state "that the ground sensor be at least 10" from the other sensors". Is there any way to move the sensors?

3. Thanks for the info on the spacing. I need to take a close look at our refrigerator as it often shuts down when in propane mode. We're 2 1/2 hours and three mountain passes from the dealer so I want to eliminate any simple fix before hauling it back there for service. As for the gap around the fridge could this be filled with Styrofoam? It might have the additional benefit of providing greater insulation. I do agree that the fit should be what the fridge manufacturer calls for.

Overall we've been pretty satisfied with the fit & finish of the camper. But it is disappointing to find any quality issues. Heck, my brand new Nissan Frontier came with rear tailgate support cables that were about an inch different in length. How hard is it to cut the cables to the same length!

[bbrowncods]

Barry,

I'll look at the valve. I think I may have learned something. I didn't realize that the valves can rotate.
The sensors can't be moved. But you can drill another hole in the tank and put in an additional sensor and move the wire. I just hate drilling another hole in the tank. There are other brands that use external sensors. I may just do that.

I am still thinking on what a good solution to the refrigerator might be. I know there is foamboard insulation that can be bought from HD or Lowe's in various thicknesses. I might just pull out the frig and build a foam enclosure around it.

It just slays me that these are production/design issues that counter the instructions that come from the manufacturers. It is not that a worker just did it wrong. It was designed into the product incorrectly. It should not happen.