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Old 09-08-2020, 06:52 PM   #21
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Atwood water heaters have aluminum tanks. They do not come with an anode, nor would they benefit from having one.
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Old 09-08-2020, 06:56 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by billygc View Post
Back in fall I had removed the anode rod and it needed replaced. Had to order another, but failed to install immediately. Today, decided to install and found the inside threading was rusted and the rod would not fully screw in even with lube. My question is: could I get a 1/2" bolt, lube it up, and then try re-threading the inside and also, just how far does that threading go into the water tank. Or, should I just get a nylon plug and not bother with the anode rod?????
What "lube" did you use? If it is not marked as potable water safe then it should be thoroughly cleaned before use. I like the idea eye95 has for using a bore brush on a drill for cleaning. That may get the surface rust off the threads well enough. If that doesnt work, use a pipe CHASER not a tap. Taps will cut new threads (in the wrong path if you are not careful. A chase will clean them up.
As others say, it will not seat flush. There will be several threads showing when it is seated. Use Teflon tape or (my choice) Oatey Great White to lube the threads. It will stay on the threads and help retard rust when the anode is out. I also put a PVC plug with a couple holes drilled through in the bung when the rod is out for the winter. It keeps critters out and lets it dry completely.
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Old 09-08-2020, 07:34 PM   #23
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Just remember that atwood fittings and the plug are usually plastic for a reason. If you were to use a metal or even a brass fitting on it it will cause the aluminum tank to corrode. I had a scotty trailer that had a atwood fail as somebody before me had used pipe fittings on the tank causing pin holes thru out it.
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Old 09-08-2020, 08:22 PM   #24
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Threads Rusted

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Originally Posted by billygc View Post
Back in fall I had removed the anode rod and it needed replaced. Had to order another, but failed to install immediately. Today, decided to install and found the inside threading was rusted and the rod would not fully screw in even with lube. My question is: could I get a 1/2" bolt, lube it up, and then try re-threading the inside and also, just how far does that threading go into the water tank. Or, should I just get a nylon plug and not bother with the anode rod?????
Hi I had the same thing happened years ago. And I went to my localRV dealer. And asked the service guy what was the size thread of my WH anode rod and wrote it down and went to Amazon and bought the tap dye. Alls you need to do is retread it. It cuts all the rust out and re tools the thread. Check it out. Very easy and use it yearly. Hope this helps
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Old 09-08-2020, 09:08 PM   #25
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You could buy a thread cutter and use it gently to clean up the thread. Not recut the thread, just clean it up. Use dielectric grease. ACE hardware has a great dielectric grease that is non toxic. I drain the tank after each trip before I take it to storage. I keep the anode out when the trailer is stored. I use a brass plug to keep the heater sealed and keep any insectivarious critters out. Before each trip I disinfect the entire system including the water heater, then do a drain and rinse, then drain again before screwing in the anode rod.
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Old 09-09-2020, 02:46 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Iwritecode View Post
The threads are actually tapered pipe threads and aren't supposed to go all the way in.

You could use the nylon plug if the tank is drained and you aren't using it. But when it's being used, you should have an anode in it.
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It is a tapered pipe thread and not a bolt thread. Clean the thread with a brass brush as best you can and put a very light coating of antisieze on the threads. Screw the rod back in. It will not bottom out as it is a tapered thread. Just tighten it till good and snug.
Many people don't know that tapered pipe threads (NPT) are not designed to thread all the way. There are times if you get half of the threads in your doing good. Sometimes you can get the fitting screwed in 3/4 of the way in but hardly ever all of them. The reason why is because the threads in the fitting and on the plug are not cut with precisely matching tap and die.
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Old 09-09-2020, 04:27 PM   #27
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It is as Scrapper says. They are pipe threads, not bolt threads. If you use a tap to clean or deburr the threads, you have to use the correct type of tap to do it. I can not emphasize enough: use a waterproof non toxic grease on those threads.
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Old 09-09-2020, 04:36 PM   #28
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Pipe "dope" or teflon tape is used as a lubricant, not a sealer. The purpose of the dope/tape is to allow the tapers to set deeper, more threads engaged and as they engage they get progressively tighter.
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Old 09-09-2020, 05:09 PM   #29
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Not sure about the toxicity of pipe “dope” being used for a portable water system. Problem with Teflon tape is it can reduce or defeat the purpose of the anode because of the insulating Properties of Teflon tape.
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Old 09-09-2020, 06:35 PM   #30
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With steel pipe always use the pipe dope, it prevents rust in the threads, I have made many repairs cause someone used Teflon tape on steal pipe
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Old 09-09-2020, 09:27 PM   #31
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Not very likely. Threads cut through that tape almost immediately.
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Not sure about the toxicity of pipe “dope” being used for a portable water system. Problem with Teflon tape is it can reduce or defeat the purpose of the anode because of the insulating Properties of Teflon tape.
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Old 09-09-2020, 09:36 PM   #32
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Not very likely. Threads cut through that tape almost immediately.
X2
2 wraps of Teflon tape and never any trouble with anode rods in water heaters in 4 trailers — and my anode rods always waste away as designed.
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Old 09-10-2020, 07:03 AM   #33
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x3 and if you don't put something on the threads they WILL rust. Whether or not they rust enough to seize and become nearly impossible to remove is a gamble I don't want to make.
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Old 09-10-2020, 07:42 AM   #34
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Another off the rail bunch of answers!

Quote:
Originally Posted by billygc View Post
Back in fall I had removed the anode rod and it needed replaced. Had to order another, but failed to install immediately. Today, decided to install and found the inside threading was rusted and the rod would not fully screw in even with lube. My question is: could I get a 1/2" bolt, lube it up, and then try re-threading the inside and also, just how far does that threading go into the water tank. Or, should I just get a nylon plug and not bother with the anode rod?????
If you removed a anode rod from your tank and just want to clean the threads for install of New anode like you removed in the fall,go buy a"3/4 ×14 NPT" tap and properly use the Tap to Clean up the rusty threads,you don't need to cut additional threads! Most people use Tef tape on the Anode threads for install! Youroo!
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Old 09-10-2020, 11:07 AM   #35
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Not very likely. Threads cut through that tape almost immediately.
Correct, using teflon tape on your rv's water heater is convenient and less messy than plumbers paste. Microscopic particles of teflon still remain on the threads to prevent leaks and create a barrier to oxidation. If you remove the anode for draining, flushing and inspection a couple times a year as your supposed to there will not be a problem with the plug rusting to the point it cannot be removed.

If you look at your household water heater you will see the factory assembled fittings and the anode rod is done with plumbers paste. Plumbers paste lubricates better for a tighter fit, is longer lasting and fills in microscopic differences better. Though plumbers paste is nontoxic, if you read the instructions they say you don't need apply it past the threads so it comes into direct contact with the water.

You can compare plumbers paste to heat sink compound used on the cpu, chipset, and gpu of your computer. The purpose is to fill in microscopic imperfections on the cpu/chipset/gpu material and the heat sink material for better transfer of heat. The only difference is the plumbers paste has to prevent leaks and rust.

FYI, the fastest, most powerful computers have the complete mainboard(s)/gpu submerged in coolant with the pump supplying coolant flow around the mainboard(s)/gpu and to the radiator.
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Old 09-14-2020, 06:49 PM   #36
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I use a wire brush that attaches to my drill. Every time I drain the WH (after each trip) I use the wire brush in both directions while the water is draining. I reinstall the anode rode immediately after. Have done this for years and have never had a problem.
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Old 09-14-2020, 07:32 PM   #37
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Why did they go to these rods? My new trailer has it and I had no clue what it was for until I researched it. My old 2001 trailer doesn’t have one and never had a problem.
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Old 09-14-2020, 07:49 PM   #38
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Why did they go to these rods? My new trailer has it and I had no clue what it was for until I researched it. My old 2001 trailer doesn’t have one and never had a problem.
Because the two different WH manufacturers use different tank linings.

Suburban uses steel, which requires the anode rod.
Atwood uses aluminum, which doesn't need an anode rod.
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Old 09-14-2020, 08:22 PM   #39
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Keep it simple. A pipe tap would be nice but use a wire brush and brush it real good. Run some silicon grease or pipe dope on the new anode and screw it in real snug. Make sure the gasket is on it first.
Good luck.
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Old 09-14-2020, 09:03 PM   #40
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I cleaned up my threads with a tap. I was very careful not to make new threads. I used vegetable oil as a lubricant. Worked great.
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