water heater bypass- use it? reach it?

[fipntdot]

Hello All,

Looking at doing the initial sanitization of the freshwater system. Manual and many other sources mention bypassing the water-heater. On the 257 BHS that looks to be challenging as the access to the back of the water heater is so far back behind the outdoor sink (pics attached) that it looks almost impossible to reach without removing the sink or perhaps removing a bunk?

My questions. Has anyone encountered this? Is it necessary to bypass the water heater when doing this sanitization?

When I was a youth and my family had campers, I did not know this was a thing.

[Flybob]

Is there an access panel inside the TT?

[fipntdot]

no access panel that I could see. It looks like it might be possible to remove part of the bunk, would need to remove screws.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Forest River does have an online manual for your rig here, but I don't know if it addresses your issue.
https://forestriverinc.help/#/coachm...express/browse

[fipntdot]

thanks for the manual reference. I had looked earlier and it appears general to all floorplans.

[Flybob]

Many access panels for the WH bypass valves are behind screwed in panels as they are only used occasionally.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Originally Posted by Flybob

Many access panels for the WH bypass valves are behind screwed in panels as they are only used occasionally.

Good idea. This guy found his screw in panel behind a door, but I've seen other videos where they were in a cabinet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-oK8yxZBIZ4

[Rhumblefish]

1. Chlorine bleach is manufactured from salt and water to produce sodium hypochlorite, the active ingredient in what we refer to as Bleach, Laundry Bleach or Clorox. Bleach IS corrosive to metal, including stainless steel (as well as some plastics). Likewise, if you have a sacrificial anode (likely you do; some HWH have aluminum tanks, and therefore do not require an anode), the bleach will corrode/etch/eat the anode.

2. Assuming that you're going to have to winterize at some point, it'd be an excellent exercise to make sure you can get at the bypass valves (looks like you have a two-valve system)

So, despite the sanitizing solution ONLY being 1/4cup per 16 gallons of fresh water tank, I'd bypass the hot water heater. Likewise, subsequent heat in the tank will kill MOST everything/anything in there now.

Pro tip: make sure you're using plain old laundry BLEACH and NOT "Bleach with Cleanser," or you're likely to end up with a sudsy, before you run, like, four freshwater tanks through the entire system. (Don't ask me how I know).

[NavyLCDR]

You do not need to bypass the water heater. The bleach solution will not eat away the sacrificial anode for the 24 hours (max) that it will be in there. You do need to drain the water heater before/after sanitizing, and you can look at the anode rod when you do that. Anode rods are around $15. It's not like you are going to break your budget if you need to replace the anode rod.

[fipntdot]

Thanks for the info. I know our WH is aluminum and doesn't have the anode. I will look more closely for any sort of access here in a little bit.

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by fipntdot

Thanks for the info. I know our WH is aluminum and doesn't have the anode. I will look more closely for any sort of access here in a little bit.

Bleach will discolor aluminum, but it will not corrode it. How much do you care about the color of the inside of the aluminum tank in the water heater?

Also, it takes 140 degrees or higher to kill bacteria. I hope your water heater isn't getting that hot. Most bacteria thrive between 40F and 140F.

[fipntdot]

[QUOTE=NavyLCDR;2735394]Bleach will discolor aluminum, but it will not corrode it. How much do you care about the color of the inside of the aluminum tank in the water heater?


Not too many things I care about less than the color of the inside of a water heater.

[fipntdot]

Went back and looked more. You can loosen 4 screws and tip up the right section of the lower bunk for easy access to the water heater valves.

[Reverse_snowbird]

Cool. Glad you found it!

[distracto]

Came here to tell you it's under the bunk! I thought the same thing - how in the world will I reach that bypass valve!

I'm considering putting a hinge on those two pieces of plywood for easier access and possibly a latch to flip it up for storage of larger items in that cubby area.

[Rhumblefish]

Originally Posted by fipntdot

Went back and looked more. You can loosen 4 screws and tip up the right section of the lower bunk for easy access to the water heater valves.

Excellent, you'll need that access to winterize.

[Rhumblefish]

I'm with LCDR. Since you don't have an anode, your tank is aluminum, I don't think you need to bypass your HWH and that you can run the bleach solution through it. It will mean you'll need to account for 6 extra gallons (or more) in your bleach concentration, because you'll be filling the fresh water tank AND the hot water heater.

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

Also, it takes 140 degrees or higher to kill bacteria. I hope your water heater isn't getting that hot. Most bacteria thrive between 40F and 140F.

This is sort of misleading. Different common bacteria thrive in all sorts of different temperatures and - likewise - different agencies suggest different temperatures for hot water heaters ranging from 120 to 140. LCDR may be referring to the "food safety zone" and the rule of thumb about temps for food. Water, it should be noted, is not food (and does not provide a very suitable growing environment/medium for bacteria; especially treated potable water).

Lower temperatures can certainly kill bacteria. While different agencies have different levels, 120°F is generally considered the bottom end temp for protection from bacterial growth. It just takes longer at 120 than it does at 140. Some interesting charts are attached that discuss temps and times for safety. Take a close look at that last one - "most" of the listed bacteria die at 120° and below. That being said, only the tank of your HWH is at that temp, everything else - including all the lines - are under that.

130°*is enough to scald with 30 seconds of exposure, I noticed that rv hot water usually runs a little hot, likely to make the most of a small tank. From what I could glean, Atwoods have 140° thermostats, with 180° overheat cutout protection <- someone please correct this

A lot of this is blah blah blah internet discussion, but good information to have and work from.