Flawed experiment or not, if someone else was to do the same experiment and post back that they also get 2 gallons of pure hot water out of the their 6 gallon tank then it would provide proof to the OP that his system is normal. I'm just not going to go out and undo my winterization to do it for him.
I see what you’re saying. It makes sense.
Bruce
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2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3029W Diamond
2015 Chevy 3500HD LTZ 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed 4.10:1 SRW
If you really want to know if you have 6 gallons of "HOT" water try this! Drain your heater tank and replace the A rod with a valve and hose,close the valve and turn on your water pump to fill tank,open pop off valve to be sure tank is FULL,now turn on propane heater for water tank! After 20 min turn off pump and city water! Turn off propane and elect,now open your new valve Slowly into a 5 gallon bucket! I bet you have 5 gallon of "HOT" water Plus spillage! Youroo!!
Never had an issue with enough hot water. And the "War Department" abuses the hot water protocol constantly. It never takes more than 10 minutes to get a "full" load of hot water with electric and propane on at same time. 6 gallon heater
We usually wash the dishes and I take a GI shower (war department not so much GI LOL) that way we can shut down the propane heater to conserve.
I am thinking OP may have a heater issue as many have indicated
I agree that you have a low hot water issue, we generally have plenty of hot water for reasonable showers and dishwashing.
If it were me I would play with the position of the valve handles. You can find plenty of information on the internet regarding bypass 3-way valves and how to direct the flow. It appears that if you have 180 degree travel, the handles need to be in line with the flow, 90 degree travel is different.
A friend of mine had this problem with his Roo. We found another valve behind a panel that was shut for winter. The hot was mixing with the cold. Check the pressure release, if that water is nice and hot...hotter then the faucet...then you need to find this valve.
I've read all the posts and in one the OP said he could hold his hand under the tap with 100% hot water on - even at the beginning of a cycle. I could never do that in any of the TT's we've owned. I've never measured the temperature of the hot water but it's literally smoking (ok, steaming) to start with. Maybe the whole issue is that the WH is never getting the water up to a high enough temp. Then that cool down factor of incoming water has even more impact.
Just my 2¢
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'17 Salem Cruise Lite 210RBXL
'11 F150 5.0
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I've read all the posts and in one the OP said he could hold his hand under the tap with 100% hot water on - even at the beginning of a cycle. I could never do that in any of the TT's we've owned. I've never measured the temperature of the hot water but it's literally smoking (ok, steaming) to start with. Maybe the whole issue is that the WH is never getting the water up to a high enough temp. Then that cool down factor of incoming water has even more impact.
Just my 2¢
This is why I asked about an adjustment for the hot water temp. My Jayco would remove skin if you put your hand in the hot water stream. With the new Surveyor, the first 2 gallons are pretty hot, but not so hot you risk a severe burn.
We've got snow outside now and I had to winterize, so I probably won't get a chance to resolve this until warmer weather. I never thought this thread would go 3 pages and 50 comments. It's a brand new trailer and every part of the system appears to be normal and functional. I figured it was some simple thing I was missing. My initial thought was that there's no way that tank holds 6 gallons of hot water, it looks so much smaller than the Jayco one. I'll do my deep dive scientific analysis when it's safe to run water again.
This is why I asked about an adjustment for the hot water temp. My Jayco would remove skin if you put your hand in the hot water stream. With the new Surveyor, the first 2 gallons are pretty hot, but not so hot you risk a severe burn.
We've got snow outside now and I had to winterize, so I probably won't get a chance to resolve this until warmer weather. I never thought this thread would go 3 pages and 50 comments. It's a brand new trailer and every part of the system appears to be normal and functional. I figured it was some simple thing I was missing. My initial thought was that there's no way that tank holds 6 gallons of hot water, it looks so much smaller than the Jayco one. I'll do my deep dive scientific analysis when it's safe to run water again.
So a lot of advice but IMHO if you feel there is something wrong, which there very well could be by the sounds of you issue. Why not bring it back to the dealer. Perhaps there's an issue with the tank itself or the sensor or thermal limiter switch that turns the gas/electric heater on to bring it to temperature.
Your only getting two gallons of straight hot water because it is being replaced by cold water inside your tank. The tanks purpose is to provide hot water to be mixed with cold water at the showers and dishes etc lasting 6 gallons of water for that purpose.
One idea I haven't seen mentioned yet is that the valves are not working properly. I have seen reports of people needing to replace the valves because even though they were turning the handle, the inside part of the valve wasn't turning.
So it's possible that hot and cold water are getting mixed coming out of the WH.
I am just happy for the hot showers I now have because someone here pointed to the hot/cold blend valve being open during winterization. Once closed, I had a hot shower. Now I do not run the shower full time while showering. I use the showerheads on/off slide and not allow the water to run while shaving or soaping up. Plenty of hot water.
I am just happy for the hot showers I now have because someone here pointed to the hot/cold blend valve being open during winterization. Once closed, I had a hot shower. Now I do not run the shower full time while showering. I use the showerheads on/off slide and not allow the water to run while shaving or soaping up. Plenty of hot water.
Where did you find a hot/cold blend valve? The picture in my first post shows the valves I have, do you have another valve somewhere in your system?
Where did you find a hot/cold blend valve? The picture in my first post shows the valves I have, do you have another valve somewhere in your system?
Some plumbing systems have a 3 valve bypass system. It's not really a 'blend' valve per se, but it does allow the hot and cold to blend if the center valve is open in the normal use situation.
Yours is not like this kind.
One idea I haven't seen mentioned yet is that the valves are not working properly. I have seen reports of people needing to replace the valves because even though they were turning the handle, the inside part of the valve wasn't turning.
So it's possible that hot and cold water are getting mixed coming out of the WH.
I was trying to say that in my previous post, but you said it much better.
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Lou, Laura, & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FLS - Pullrite 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW
I'm not sure but the valves / tubing don't look quite right. It almost appears as if the cold water line (blue tape) is mixing with the hot water output line?
I'm not sure but the valves / tubing don't look quite right. It almost appears as if the cold water line (blue tape) is mixing with the hot water output line?
The valves (when turned as indicated) block off the crossover hose connection.
This only allows cold feed water to enter the bottom of the tank and hot tank water to exit the top of the tank and be directed to the hot water pipe.
When the valves are turned in line with the hoses, the short hose connects the cold and hot pipes, while blocking the inlet and outlet on the tank.
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Lou, Laura, & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Crewcab SB Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FLS - Pullrite 3300
HAM CALLSIGN - KC3FFW