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Old 03-03-2017, 08:20 AM   #1
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2017 19 RR De Winterized

I have a new 2017 19 RR, that the Dealer had Winterized prior to pulling it home. Upon reading the posts concerning what should be done to de winterize an RV, I got a little confused due to all the various responses on different types of RV's.
Yesterday I called the Dealer where I purchased the trailer, and spoke with the Tech that had winterized the trailer. Asked specifically what I should do. These are the steps he mentioned:
Remove mattress as this makes the job much easier!
Lift off the plywood panel (front side) that was under mattress.
Look to the lower rear left, and you see a false wall (remove it).
The Water Pump, and Hot Water Heater is now visible.
On the Hot Water heater is THREE Valves. Reverse the direction of each.
You are now opening closed valves and closing the open valve.
Place false wall, plywood panel and mattress back in normal position.
Hook up City Water (using the pressure regulator on the hose).
Run ALL faucets on both hot and cold water. (Don't forget toilet & out shower).
When no more pink antifreeze can be seen, you're ready to go camping!
Nothing else is required.
I asked about low point drains, adding bleach solution to fresh water tank (which we won't use), and was told NO. I needed to do nothing else, other than what he explained.
Now, if summer would just get here!
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:38 PM   #2
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I think it may be a good idea to flush lines prior to opening lines to water tank? Also if you have a anode rod, that will need to be inserted or tightened after as well.
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:46 PM   #3
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I too will advise to NOT reverse the water heater bypass valves until AFTER you flush the system of antifreeze. Opening them first will cause antifreeze to flow into the water heater tank as you begin to flush. No need for that. Once flushed, then open/reverse the valves. Once the valves are opened, be sure the water heater is full before turning on the electric element.
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Old 03-03-2017, 12:56 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
I too will advise to NOT reverse the water heater bypass valves until AFTER you flush the system of antifreeze. Opening them first will cause antifreeze to flow into the water heater tank as you begin to flush. No need for that. Once flushed, then open/reverse the valves. Once the valves are opened, be sure the water heater is full before turning on the electric element.
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Old 03-03-2017, 01:49 PM   #5
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19RR,
A couple more things I'll touch on from your first post...

I would include the low point drains when flushing the antifreeze and here is why...
Most low point drains are plumbed so they point down towards the ground several inches to a foot from the main plumbing lines. In a perfect world, after flushing the plumbing from the faucets, gravity should keep any trapped antifreeze left in those low point lines (if you didn't open them) from migrating into the plumbing system.

Unfortunately 'perfect' isn't always the case. On top of that, you can get somewhat of a 'siphon effect' when drawing water across the Tee fitting that would go to the low point lines causing a small amount of the remaining antifreeze (in the low point lines) to be sucked into the plumbing. This could go on for several days (or longer) somewhat defeating the purpose of flushing. While the antifreeze that migrated into the plumbing wouldn't hurt you, it could be annoying.

Also, some antifreeze can leave a bit of a residual taste in the plumbing so your comment of just flushing till... 'no more pink can be seen'... may not be a long enough flush.

You also mentioned not using a bleach solution to sanitize. I find that step actually helps eliminate any residual taste/smell left from that antifreeze. It is also a step that really should be done on a new unit and once a year regardless.

Food for thought.
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Old 03-03-2017, 03:52 PM   #6
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ALL posts above carry great info, and thanks to all that posted! In my post I basically concentrated on the tank valves, and direction they are turned, but of course lines need to be flushed first. The Anode rod installed with teflon tape and checked for leaks. All excellent points to mention! Low point drain flush made good sense. I'm going to include everything in my De winterizing process.
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Old 03-03-2017, 04:20 PM   #7
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I'm envious, I wish I could de winterize now. I have about another 4 weeks.
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Old 03-03-2017, 05:23 PM   #8
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rmac04401

You and me both! Think about 4 weeks here.
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Old 03-03-2017, 05:43 PM   #9
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Even though you say you will not be using the FW tank, I would sanitize it and the water lines. Odds are either the factory or the dealer added water to test it and the water pump so there is some residual water in it. It is easy and inexpensive to do and always ready should you need it.
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Old 03-04-2017, 04:04 PM   #10
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Flybob

You are of course, correct about sanitizing FW Tank and water lines. I will do that. Thanks, and, Thank You for your service.
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Old 03-04-2017, 04:08 PM   #11
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While you have access to the water pump remove any debris in the screen and check all of the fittings you can reach making sure they are tight.
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Old 03-04-2017, 04:11 PM   #12
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I also think that it's a good idea to sanitize the FW tank and the system when dewinterizing. Last year one of the parks we camped in had a water problem and had to shut down the water for a day while it was fixed. I had to put water in my FW tank for use in the toilet and washing. Glad it was sanitized. I always carry spring water jugs for drinking, don't always trust the campgrounds water.
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Old 03-05-2017, 07:37 AM   #13
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All great ideas posted! Thanks!
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:54 AM   #14
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Smile This weekend I De Winterized

I did go thru steps mentioned in above posts, which were quite informative. I did sanitize the FWT and lines, with Bleach, and let set a full 24 hours, before emptying FWT and low point drains, and flushing with the Baking Soda solution.

One thing I found interesting. I found only TWO valves on the hot water tank, instead of the three that the Dealer mentioned. Turned valves from winter to summer, back to winter and then to summer during the process.

Chlorine smell gone. Tested hot water heater, and it works great! Noted no leakes.

I'm going to next Torque my wheel nuts, as recommended, to 100 FT LBS, and believe I'll be ready to go camping!
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