Adding light to electric water heater

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

There are multiple flavors of Suburban, of course. The most common are:
SWnDE and SWnDEL where "n" could be 4, 6, 10, or 12. The difference is that the DEL models have a built-in relay that's actuated by 12v and switches the 110v on and off. If you have one of these, there's already a small 12v switch, similar to the switch that starts the propane side.

Mine is the DE model and lacks the relay, but as WMTIRE states, it is connected via plug-and-outlet to a dedicated circuit breaker in the panel. As the other poster said, I would prefer to have an easy-to-reach switch with pilot light for the electric side. Fortunately the water heater is under the range and there's a blank panel about 4" high between the range and the door for the water heater.

I've bought the parts but and will do the simple install soon. Basically I am going to make a panel-mounted extension cord with switch and pilot light.

Here are the parts:
One-gang old work electrical box
https://www.lowes.com/pd/CARLON-1-Ga...al-Box/1099179

15-amp light switch with pilot light
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hubbell-15-...tch/1000050745

Outlet cover plate
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Pass-Seymou...-Plate/3235262

6-feet of Southwire 14/3 Black SJOOW Power Cord (By-the-Foot)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-1...-Foot/50148244

Plug
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hubbell-15-...g-Plug/3739251
(equivalent less expensively available at Harbor Freight)

Socket
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-20-Am...nector/3568870
(equivalent available less expensively at Harbor Freight)

My plan is to do the wiring first and then mount the box and switch together. This will limit my time crouching on the floor.

First I will trace an outline of the box on the panel, cut the opening, and make sure the box fits.

Wiring will be straight forward. Working at one end of the cord, I will carefully strip off about four inches of the outer jacket. Without cutting the cord, I will strip about 1/2" of insulation from each of the whitecand green wires.

I will wrap the green bare wire under the green screw on the switch and tighten it.

I will wrap the white wire under the silver screw and tighten it.

I will cut the black wire and strip 1/2" from either end. There are two brass screws. One is also connected to the pilot light. The black wire from the short end of the cord goes under the brass screw connected to the pilot light (on the side that doesn't have the green screw. The black wire from the long end of the cord goes to the brass screw on the side with the green screw.

Get everything really tight. Electrical problems are caused by loose connections.

I will push the cords through the opening on the junction box. (This will be a little tricky, since they are meant to have wires installed from the other side. A hook or screwdriver will hold the springy flap open.)

I'll put the plug on the long end of the cord and the receptacle on the short end using same rules: green to green, black to brass (gold), white to silver. Everything must be really tight.

Now I will mount the box by sliding the cords and box in place. I expect to mount the box with some short flat-head wood screws, but if they don't seem solid, I will have flat-head machine screws, nuts and washers available.

Last, the easy parts. Attach the cover plate to the new switch. Unplug the water heater from the wall. Plug it into the receptacle attached to the new switch. Then insert the plug from the new switch into the wall.

Larry

Larry, here's a wiring diagram for you. I used a different manufacturer's switch, but should wire up the same. I replaced the existing water heater "speed outlet" with a real duplex outlet, which required a new electrical box. Ran a piece of 14/3 romex from the new water heater outlet box to the new switch box.

New WH outlet box:



New Switch box under bathroom sink:



New switch installed:

[pdqparalegal1]

Originally Posted by Bobaloo

Please add some pictures and details when you're finished. I have left mine on and realized I've been heating water for two weeks after we get home and I've plugged into my 30 amp Rv receptacle .
Thanks,
Bob

I think Bob gets the prize. Leaving it on when we don’t want to is the problem.

[cpaulsen]

Just get a lighted switch at ACE or any big box store.......find the 110 going to the water heater and wire ithe switch into there. Very easy to do. I have done on 3 previous 5t wheels and mounted the switch where it ws easy to see. Was nice to just flip the inside switch when we were going to be gone for the day instead of going outside to flip the switch(Suburban). I could leave the little black rocker switch and just use the inside one.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by RogerWo

My only concern is that I prefer not to leave the heater on when it will not be used. Adding an indicator light or switch would certainly go a long way to solving this. All previous trailers had this feature.

Yes, adding a lighted switch is no problem. adding a separate light across the existing switch is no problem. This will no effect on the circuit board as stated by the salesman.

[wmtire]

Roger, I was just searching for some pics for another thread I an involved in, and ran across this, which immediately reminded me of your thread.


This is where somebody did the mod you are asking about. Read the comments section as there were easier ideas submitted and the parts used to accomplish such. This should get you fixed up:


RV Water Heater On LED Lights | ModMyRV

[RogerWo]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Roger, I was just searching for some pics for another thread I an involved in, and ran across this, which immediately reminded me of your thread.


This is where somebody did the mod you are asking about. Read the comments section as there were easier ideas submitted and the parts used to accomplish such. This should get you fixed up:


RV Water Heater On LED Lights | ModMyRV

This is exactly what I'm intending to do. Thanks again for the info. I will check out the lighted switch's but have already ordered the LED's. I will post what I finally do. Much appreciated. Roger

[RogerWo]

Originally Posted by RogerWo

This is exactly what I'm intending to do. Thanks again for the info. I will check out the lighted switch's but have already ordered the LED's. I will post what I finally do. Much appreciated. Roger

So,today I received the LED's and went ahead with the installation. As the pic's show, I used multi-stack connectors on all LED connections. The issue is that when the switch is on the propane fault indicator also lights. I have verified that the electric heater is coming on as it should. Is it possible that using the multi-stack connector on the - terminal is causing this? Any ideas?? Thanks, R

[Bama Rambler]

Are you sure that you're hooked to the negative side of that fault light and not the positive side?

[rockfordroo]

Here's the wiring diagram, maybe it will help you:

[RogerWo]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

Are you sure that you're hooked to the negative side of that fault light and not the positive side?

When I checked voltage from + switch's to this terminal I got 12v. This terminal has 1 blue wire. The other side of fault light has 2 wires so I didn't check it. I was just looking through the heater manual and they show blue wire in top position as lock out lamp and bottom position as ground. I connected to the bottom position as a ground which of course has 1 blue wire so possibly the lock out lamp is wired differently than schematic. Duh, think I screwed up! Comments appreciated. Thanks, Roger

[rockfordroo]

You want to go from Orange to Yellow/Green (i.e., in parallel with the relay).

You can tie into the orange wire at the switch, but assuming the "junction box" is at the water heater, you will need to pull another wire to get to the orange/green.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Here's the wiring diagram, maybe it will help you:

rockfordroo, that schematic is to a Suburban, but the OP has an Atwood.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by wmtire

rockfordroo, that schematic is to a Suburban, but the OP has an Atwood.

Sorry. Forgot since yesterday, I guess.

Found this pic, it may help:



Looks like he went to the wrong side of the DSI light.

[RogerWo]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Sorry. Forgot since yesterday, I guess.

Found this pic, it may help:



Looks like he went to the wrong side of the DSI light.

I corrected the wiring by changing the LED - lead to the opposite side of the fault light which also has a gray and white wire connected to it. The other side of the fault light has a blue wire only. Everything is now operating as it should with the LED's lighted when the switch is engaged. I much appreciate all your inputs which has resulted in a successful install. Thank you all again. Roger

[wmtire]

Roger, now that you got it all successfully done..I may move this thread to the modifications and updates section, since it is really a mod that others may want to do in the future.

[RogerWo]

Sounds good to me. It's probably more appropriate there. Roger

[Bama Rambler]

Glad it's working now. Glad it was as simple as swapping a wire around.

[RogerWo]

If I hadn't gotten the encouragement that I received from you all at this site I would have gone on believing that this could not be done without screwing something up. Hopefully some other person will read all this dialogue and recognize the fact that they can correct what I consider as an omission from the manufacturer of FR. Maybe I'M just spoiled by previous units I've had, but it surely cannot be a major event to provide something so simple from the manufacturer.