Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-17-2019, 09:59 PM   #1
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Herculaneum, MO
Posts: 24
Anode Rod for Hot Water Tank Issue

Hey everyone, I was having an issue with my hot water tank on my new/used camper and was hoping I could get some feedback. I recently purchased a used 2011 Coachmen Catalina.

Today I was de-winterizing and sanitizing my fresh water tank and lines. When I went to reinstall the anode rod (rod is in slightly used condition, but magnesium is still solidly on the stem) into the hot water tank I noticed the rodís threading wouldnít catch after I initially tried tightening it with a wrench and then breaker bar.

I then tried to put Teflon on the threading and put it on but the rod wouldnít catch.

My concern is did I strip the threading on the anode rod or worse hot water tank when I tried tightening it with a breaker bar? I wasnít overly exerting too much pressure on the bar.

My plan from here is to order a new anode rod and see how that works. If that doesnít work my neighbor said he has a thread chaser we can use to clean out the threads and run a new threading should we need it. Heís been a long time RVíer and I trust his judgment, but wanted to see what anyone elseís opinions are! Thank you in advance!
__________________

__________________
GreenHorn Hauler
Missouri
TV: 2014 Chevy Silverado Crew (5.3L), 4X4, 6.6 bed, trailer package and break
TT: 2011 Coachmen 28DDS
GreenHorn Hauler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2019, 10:54 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Apollo, PA
Posts: 582
You shouldnít need a breaker bar to tighten the anode rod. If your neighbor has the tool to chase the brakes threads, he probably knows what heís doing. Iíd run a tap (3/4Ē NPT) into the tank before trying to install the new anode. They can be hard to get started sometimes and are easily cross threaded.

Have your neighbor look at it. Hopefully the threads in the tank arenít stripped.
__________________

__________________

2017 Rockwood 2703WS - Sold
2015 Keystone Sprinter 333FWFLS
2017 F250, 6.2 Gas, 3.73 Axle, 2902 lb Payload
If women don't find you handsome, at least they should find you handy!
andymil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2019, 08:02 AM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: payson, az
Posts: 2,564
absolutely agree with what andymil said. you don't need a breaker bar! get your friend to clean up the threads with the thread chaser. then try a new anode with new threads. use your fingers to get the threads started. use a socket only at the end to snug it. you don't have to torque it down more than snug and not leaking. use teflon tape.
__________________
2015 cardinal model 3825fl
2015 dodge ram 3500 dually
CHICKDOE is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2019, 08:15 AM   #4
Site Team
 
Flybob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 11,349
Installing an anode rod in a Suburban WH can be a little tricky as the weight of the rod itself tends to cause the threads to cross thread. This is especially true if you try to start the rod with a tool. The best way to install an anode rod is start the treads by hand while using the free hand to keep the head of the threaded portion perpendicular to the WH. Once you get a turn or so using only fingers you can use a tool to hand tighten. I do not recommend a breaker bar or long handled wrench for tightening and always add a wrap of two of Teflon tape.
__________________

2015 Freedom Express 248RBS
TV 2015 Silverado HD2500 Duramax
TST Tire Monitors
Honda 2000I + Companion
2 100W solar panels
Flybob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2019, 02:24 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Wisconsin/Florida
Posts: 1,488
There is a little trick to starting threads. With the weight of the anode rod, it is difficult to align the threads. First make sure the male and female align parallel to each other. The threads are clockwise, but slowly turn the anode counter clockwise until it gently mates with the staring thread, slowly start threading it clockwise until you know the threads are mating and not cross threading. If it starts to cross thread, back out, realign the threads and repeat. As other have said, use Mylar tape on the male threads.

Also, if you have the room, a set of vice grip clamped straight out from the hex helps counter balance the weight of the anode and will help start the threads.
PenJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2019, 02:58 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
onetonford's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: TEMP for now
Posts: 1,152
I had to run a tap in mine because some one who originally installed it crossed it. that was how I found it because it was dripping. After straightened the threads it starts good and doesn't leak after snugging it up. just remember to not over tighten it as you can cause issues. I usually put it back with Teflon tape finger start it and just snug it then I pressurize the tank and if it leaks I snug until it stops.
__________________

2001 Ford F-350 DRW 7.3
2011 25 RL Wildcat
former fiver 1976 Fourwinds had for 35 years
onetonford is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2019, 04:48 PM   #7
Just as confused as you
 
Scrapper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Wilderness CG, WI
Posts: 3,897
Another trick for installing the anode.

Put 2 wraps of teflon tape on the anode threads. Use a 1-1/16 6 point socket and a 6 inch extension. Put a small piece of paper or paper towel around the head of the anode so it fits snugly in the socket. Using the extension as a handle, turn the anode slowly counter clockwise until you feel it set into the threads of the tank then turn it clockwise until snug. Fill the water heater and using a ratchet or breaker bar to tighten, usually 1/2 to 1 full turn until leaking stops.

I have been doing it this way for years and never have problems. The paper on the nut of the anode prevents it from wobbling in the socket. I'm surprised others have not mentioned this before as many forum members do the same.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, seasonal since 2000
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
The Faster I Go, The Behinder I Get.
Scrapper is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2019, 05:05 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 127
Use Rector seal, some patience, 1/2 ratchet and snug only.
Portagie1968 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2019, 08:24 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
satdog01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Franklin, TN
Posts: 689
After 10 plus years of dealing with water in TN that’s comes with an abundance of lime, a critical step in replacing anode is to FIRST clean threads with a 3/4 inch tap. Picked one up off Amazon for under $20. Much cheaper than HW replacement.
__________________
2020 Georgetown 31L, Safe T steering, Sumo springs, Onan Geny
2015 GMC Canyon 4X4 TOAD w/Blue Ox tow plates
Pepper 🌶 Pomeranian rescue 335 nights as camping buddy
Days camped in FR, 2011-12 = 77, Ď13-14 = 98, Ď15 = 52
Ď16 = 77, Ď17 = 81, Ď18 = 44, 19í = 83, 2020 = 8
Retired :
satdog01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2019, 09:41 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by satdog01 View Post
After 10 plus years of dealing with water in TN that’s comes with an abundance of lime, a critical step in replacing anode is to FIRST clean threads with a 3/4 inch tap. Picked one up off Amazon for under $20. Much cheaper than HW replacement.

Use of rector seal instead of tape or dope may eliminate the need to ream.
Portagie1968 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2019, 10:56 AM   #11
Member
 
DAB2014's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Medina, Ohio
Posts: 34
Anode Rod

First thing I do is take a cylindrical wire brush connected to my drill and ream the fitting then follow with tap if necessary. Putting paper around head of anode is also a good idea.
__________________


2018 Georgetown 369DS
2017 Cherokee Trailhawk
DAB2014 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2019, 05:31 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
primo20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Canada
Posts: 414
for those using rectoseal, are you guys using no5 soft set?
__________________
2018 DURANGO 2500 343MBQ | 2019 Silverado 3500 DRW Duramax
primo20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2019, 03:55 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
nomad297's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 4,053
Quote:
Originally Posted by primo20 View Post
for those using rectoseal, are you guys using no5 soft set?


I have been a plumber my entire adult life. I have used various types and brands of dope, but only because thatís what was on hand. I only use Rectorseal No.5. Always have. I use it whenever dope is required ó water, drain, air, natural gas and propane. There are specialty dopes for certain applications such as gasoline and other chemicals, but I rarely do any of that type of work.

Bruce
__________________
2016 Rockwood Windjammer 3029W Diamond
2015 Chevy 3500HD LTZ 6.0 Crew Cab 4x4 Long Bed 4.10:1 SRW
nomad297 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2019, 06:24 AM   #14
Senior Member
 
primo20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Canada
Posts: 414
thanks Bruce
__________________
2018 DURANGO 2500 343MBQ | 2019 Silverado 3500 DRW Duramax
primo20 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2019, 06:44 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Dave Lyon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Oshawa, ON
Posts: 928
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper View Post
Another trick for installing the anode.

Put 2 wraps of teflon tape on the anode threads. Use a 1-1/16 6 point socket and a 6 inch extension. Put a small piece of paper or paper towel around the head of the anode so it fits snugly in the socket. Using the extension as a handle, turn the anode slowly counter clockwise until you feel it set into the threads of the tank then turn it clockwise until snug. Fill the water heater and using a ratchet or breaker bar to tighten, usually 1/2 to 1 full turn until leaking stops.

I have been doing it this way for years and never have problems. The paper on the nut of the anode prevents it from wobbling in the socket. I'm surprised others have not mentioned this before as many forum members do the same.
X2. It's much easier to balance the anode rod and keep it perpendicular using the socket and extension.
__________________
Dave, Southern,ON



2017 GMC SLT HD All Terrain Crew Cab (6' 6" Box) 2012 Roo 23SS
E2 Trunnion WDH (1,000 lb / 10,000 lb)
Dave Lyon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2019, 09:28 PM   #16
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Herculaneum, MO
Posts: 24
Thank you all very much for your comments and opinions. I purchased a new anode rod and tried cleaning the threading before putting the new rod in with a wire brush. That still didnít work. Iím going to try using a tap to clean up the thread. Iíll let you all know how it goes this weekend.

Again, I canít thank the members of this forum enough. It seems whenever I encounter an issue I can count on the collective community to help me!
__________________
GreenHorn Hauler
Missouri
TV: 2014 Chevy Silverado Crew (5.3L), 4X4, 6.6 bed, trailer package and break
TT: 2011 Coachmen 28DDS
GreenHorn Hauler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2019, 12:00 PM   #17
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Herculaneum, MO
Posts: 24
Good Result with 3/4" Tap

Hey everyone,

My neighbor and I completed the job this past weekend. We used a 3/4" tap and applied vegetable oil to it. We took our time re-threading the female side and backed it out completely multiple times to clean the tap, clean the insert with a magnet rod, and reapply vegetable oil to the tap. The new threading worked and I was able to insert the anode rod and it went in well. At our next trip I'm going to use a wand to clean out the hot water tank well to get all the shavings and magnesium deposits out of the tank, apply anti-seize to the rod so we hopefully don't have this issue next year, and then tighten it down.

I don't want to have a non-food grade anti-seize get into our hot water supply. Has anyone used this?
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-46686...ustomerReviews
__________________
GreenHorn Hauler
Missouri
TV: 2014 Chevy Silverado Crew (5.3L), 4X4, 6.6 bed, trailer package and break
TT: 2011 Coachmen 28DDS
GreenHorn Hauler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2019, 12:36 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Hoglou's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 1,090
Rectorseal 5 is approved for potable water applications. We use a socket and a lug nut in the base to install anodes...
__________________
Hoglou the DH (01.01.21 done and retired)
BK the DW (retired and happy)
WestGA KM4HQQ 146.640mhz
L'IL Foot" 2014 Sunseeker 2300
"Harry" the JK toad in the mirror
Check out the "mods" in the albums
Hoglou is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2019, 01:24 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 127
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoglou View Post
Rectorseal 5 is approved for potable water applications. We use a socket and a lug nut in the base to install anodes...



What the old Portagie has been saying in this thread from the first page. Will not seize, rust no, hand tighten and a little extra should do the trick, and next year U will be pleasantly surprised that U do not have to use a breaker bar to loosen the rod. Thank you for reminding me I need to tighten mine before we leave. almost forgot.
__________________

Portagie1968 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
anode, hot water, tank, water, water tank

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:49 AM.


×