Anode Rod for Hot Water Tank Issue

[GreenHorn Hauler]

Hey everyone, I was having an issue with my hot water tank on my new/used camper and was hoping I could get some feedback. I recently purchased a used 2011 Coachmen Catalina.

Today I was de-winterizing and sanitizing my fresh water tank and lines. When I went to reinstall the anode rod (rod is in slightly used condition, but magnesium is still solidly on the stem) into the hot water tank I noticed the rod’s threading wouldn’t catch after I initially tried tightening it with a wrench and then breaker bar.

I then tried to put Teflon on the threading and put it on but the rod wouldn’t catch.

My concern is did I strip the threading on the anode rod or worse hot water tank when I tried tightening it with a breaker bar? I wasn’t overly exerting too much pressure on the bar.

My plan from here is to order a new anode rod and see how that works. If that doesn’t work my neighbor said he has a thread chaser we can use to clean out the threads and run a new threading should we need it. He’s been a long time RV’er and I trust his judgment, but wanted to see what anyone else’s opinions are! Thank you in advance!

[andymil]

You shouldn’t need a breaker bar to tighten the anode rod. If your neighbor has the tool to chase the brakes threads, he probably knows what he’s doing. I’d run a tap (3/4” NPT) into the tank before trying to install the new anode. They can be hard to get started sometimes and are easily cross threaded.

Have your neighbor look at it. Hopefully the threads in the tank aren’t stripped.

[CHICKDOE]

absolutely agree with what andymil said. you don't need a breaker bar! get your friend to clean up the threads with the thread chaser. then try a new anode with new threads. use your fingers to get the threads started. use a socket only at the end to snug it. you don't have to torque it down more than snug and not leaking. use teflon tape.

[Flybob]

Installing an anode rod in a Suburban WH can be a little tricky as the weight of the rod itself tends to cause the threads to cross thread. This is especially true if you try to start the rod with a tool. The best way to install an anode rod is start the treads by hand while using the free hand to keep the head of the threaded portion perpendicular to the WH. Once you get a turn or so using only fingers you can use a tool to hand tighten. I do not recommend a breaker bar or long handled wrench for tightening and always add a wrap of two of Teflon tape.

[PenJoe]

There is a little trick to starting threads. With the weight of the anode rod, it is difficult to align the threads. First make sure the male and female align parallel to each other. The threads are clockwise, but slowly turn the anode counter clockwise until it gently mates with the staring thread, slowly start threading it clockwise until you know the threads are mating and not cross threading. If it starts to cross thread, back out, realign the threads and repeat. As other have said, use Mylar tape on the male threads.

Also, if you have the room, a set of vice grip clamped straight out from the hex helps counter balance the weight of the anode and will help start the threads.

[onetonford]

I had to run a tap in mine because some one who originally installed it crossed it. that was how I found it because it was dripping. After straightened the threads it starts good and doesn't leak after snugging it up. just remember to not over tighten it as you can cause issues. I usually put it back with Teflon tape finger start it and just snug it then I pressurize the tank and if it leaks I snug until it stops.

[Scrapper]

Another trick for installing the anode.

Put 2 wraps of teflon tape on the anode threads. Use a 1-1/16 6 point socket and a 6 inch extension. Put a small piece of paper or paper towel around the head of the anode so it fits snugly in the socket. Using the extension as a handle, turn the anode slowly counter clockwise until you feel it set into the threads of the tank then turn it clockwise until snug. Fill the water heater and using a ratchet or breaker bar to tighten, usually 1/2 to 1 full turn until leaking stops.

I have been doing it this way for years and never have problems. The paper on the nut of the anode prevents it from wobbling in the socket. I'm surprised others have not mentioned this before as many forum members do the same.

[Portagie1968]

Use Rector seal, some patience, 1/2 ratchet and snug only.

[satdog01]

After 10 plus years of dealing with water in TN that’s comes with an abundance of lime, a critical step in replacing anode is to FIRST clean threads with a 3/4 inch tap. Picked one up off Amazon for under $20. Much cheaper than HW replacement.

[Portagie1968]

Originally Posted by satdog01

After 10 plus years of dealing with water in TN that’s comes with an abundance of lime, a critical step in replacing anode is to FIRST clean threads with a 3/4 inch tap. Picked one up off Amazon for under $20. Much cheaper than HW replacement.

Use of rector seal instead of tape or dope may eliminate the need to ream.

[DAB2014]

First thing I do is take a cylindrical wire brush connected to my drill and ream the fitting then follow with tap if necessary. Putting paper around head of anode is also a good idea.

[primo20]

for those using rectoseal, are you guys using no5 soft set?

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by primo20

for those using rectoseal, are you guys using no5 soft set?

I have been a plumber my entire adult life. I have used various types and brands of dope, but only because that’s what was on hand. I only use Rectorseal No.5. Always have. I use it whenever dope is required — water, drain, air, natural gas and propane. There are specialty dopes for certain applications such as gasoline and other chemicals, but I rarely do any of that type of work.

Bruce

[primo20]

thanks Bruce

[Dave Lyon]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

Another trick for installing the anode.

Put 2 wraps of teflon tape on the anode threads. Use a 1-1/16 6 point socket and a 6 inch extension. Put a small piece of paper or paper towel around the head of the anode so it fits snugly in the socket. Using the extension as a handle, turn the anode slowly counter clockwise until you feel it set into the threads of the tank then turn it clockwise until snug. Fill the water heater and using a ratchet or breaker bar to tighten, usually 1/2 to 1 full turn until leaking stops.

I have been doing it this way for years and never have problems. The paper on the nut of the anode prevents it from wobbling in the socket. I'm surprised others have not mentioned this before as many forum members do the same.

X2. It's much easier to balance the anode rod and keep it perpendicular using the socket and extension.

[GreenHorn Hauler]

Thank you all very much for your comments and opinions. I purchased a new anode rod and tried cleaning the threading before putting the new rod in with a wire brush. That still didn’t work. I’m going to try using a tap to clean up the thread. I’ll let you all know how it goes this weekend.

Again, I can’t thank the members of this forum enough. It seems whenever I encounter an issue I can count on the collective community to help me!

[GreenHorn Hauler]

Hey everyone,

My neighbor and I completed the job this past weekend. We used a 3/4" tap and applied vegetable oil to it. We took our time re-threading the female side and backed it out completely multiple times to clean the tap, clean the insert with a magnet rod, and reapply vegetable oil to the tap. The new threading worked and I was able to insert the anode rod and it went in well. At our next trip I'm going to use a wand to clean out the hot water tank well to get all the shavings and magnesium deposits out of the tank, apply anti-seize to the rod so we hopefully don't have this issue next year, and then tighten it down.

I don't want to have a non-food grade anti-seize get into our hot water supply. Has anyone used this?
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-46686...ustomerReviews

[Hoglou]

Rectorseal 5 is approved for potable water applications. We use a socket and a lug nut in the base to install anodes...

[Portagie1968]

Originally Posted by Hoglou

Rectorseal 5 is approved for potable water applications. We use a socket and a lug nut in the base to install anodes...

What the old Portagie has been saying in this thread from the first page. Will not seize, rust no, hand tighten and a little extra should do the trick, and next year U will be pleasantly surprised that U do not have to use a breaker bar to loosen the rod. Thank you for reminding me I need to tighten mine before we leave. almost forgot.