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Old 03-04-2017, 04:32 PM   #1
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Anode Rod wont start threading

Help!! Brand new 5th wheel, just de-winterized it and I am trying to put in the Anode rod and I cant get it to start threading. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
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Old 03-04-2017, 04:38 PM   #2
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Tape the hex head of the anode till it fits very tightly in to a socket, with a 6 inch or so extension as a handle thread it in.

Be sure you have at least a couple of wraps of thread tape on the threads of the anode to keep it from leaking or binding.
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Old 03-04-2017, 04:40 PM   #3
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Sometimes you have to maneuver it a bit to get the threads to start. When putting it back into the water heater it is going to want to tilt towards the bottom of the tank due to the weight of the rod that is in the tank. You will need to put a little more pressure on the lower portion of the anode rod bolt to get it seated properly. Make sure you begin the threading process by hand until it starts to thread in (you don't want to inadvertently strip the threads by wrenching hard on it.)
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Old 03-04-2017, 05:19 PM   #4
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Another question?

Oh my gosh I got it!!!! Thank you so much, I just tried to tilt the Anode Rod up and it started threading. So while I am on a streak, can I ask another question?
I have the water hose hooked up to the trailer and am getting water coming out every faucet EXCEPT the main kitchen faucet? There also seems to be a leak somewhere under the sink. Thanks again for any information.
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Old 03-04-2017, 05:26 PM   #5
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Open cabinet door, reattach water line to the bottom of the faucet.

OR.

The cheap POS plastic faucet is broken, in this event go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a nice metal one.
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Old 03-04-2017, 05:35 PM   #6
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If you have a spray hose, odds are it was not winterized and something froze. If not the faucet could either be cracked or the water line is loose. The spray head and faucet are plastic and do not do well if if they freeze.
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Old 03-04-2017, 05:41 PM   #7
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Open cabinet door, reattach water line to the bottom of the faucet.

OR.

The cheap POS plastic faucet is broken, in this event go to Lowes or Home Depot and buy a nice metal one.
Yep, what was said here. See if you can find the source of the leak by looking. Doubt there is a shutoff valve at all preventing faucet from working. If you are getting no water through the faucet it is completely disconnected.
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Old 03-05-2017, 01:39 PM   #8
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Might your hot water heater be a dometic? That was always my issue every time I tried to put the anode back in in 3 different trailers with dometic tanks. As for the leak, your low point drains may be open too. Some water comes out of some but not others, although you will have water coming out the bottom of the trailer. As a telltale sign. Probably the broken fitting though. Always buy premium antifreeze, not that garbage from Walmart.
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Old 03-05-2017, 01:44 PM   #9
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Always buy premium antifreeze, not that garbage from Walmart.

Around here Walmart sells the same brand you buy elsewhere.
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:05 PM   #10
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Always buy premium antifreeze, not that garbage from Walmart.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scrapper View Post
Around here Walmart sells the same brand you buy elsewhere.
X2. Propylene glycol is propylene glycol.
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:25 PM   #11
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Leak and no flow at faucet may be independent issues.
Need to look / feel under sink to id source of leak.
Many of us have found the faucet flow inhibited by junk in the faucet aerator or the screen (screwed into the end of the faucet). Try unscrewing it - see if you have flow without the aerator/screen. If so, clean them out and re-install (or leave them out).
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Old 03-05-2017, 08:06 PM   #12
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X2. Propylene glycol is propylene glycol.
To a very large extent you are correct. However, there is a photo online, possibly on this forum, of 2 gallon jugs of the pink stuff. Both -50 rated. The one from a dealer turned upside down is all liquid. The other from Walmart has gelled. It will not freeze but is NOT the same even though same brand. Walmart lovers will never believe Wally gets 2nds and off quality parts but it is true.
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Old 03-06-2017, 12:12 AM   #13
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To a very large extent you are correct. However, there is a photo online, possibly on this forum, of 2 gallon jugs of the pink stuff. Both -50 rated. The one from a dealer turned upside down is all liquid. The other from Walmart has gelled. It will not freeze but is NOT the same even though same brand. Walmart lovers will never believe Wally gets 2nds and off quality parts but it is true.
I understand your example.

And I'm certainly not intending to defend Walmart.

However, it doesn't make Walmart's AF "junk" if it is providing adequate protection to the advertised temperature. If it does the job at a lower price point, that doesn't necessarily make it junk. If the premium guys want to add a bit more propylene glycol to, let's say, "increase their margin," more power to them. But it probably isn't necessary, and you will pay for it. (Also, it's quite possible that other "premium" brands may also have gelled at -50F; but we don't know because we really only saw two examples. I'm always skeptical of these kind of examples, because they are usually posted by someone with an axe to grind.)

You can buy a Cadillac or a Chevy. They may both do the job, and the Caddy may do it a "bit better" (we can even argue that point), but that doesn't mean you need to buy the Caddy if the Chevy will do what you need at your price point.

Why pay $5 a gallon for "premium" AF if you can get AF at Walmart for $3 that still does the job?

For most folks in the US, their RV's never see the temperatures like -50F anyway. Worst I've seen in Illinois in the past 37 years is -26F (windchill, of course, of much less!).

Like anything else, each person has to decide how much he's willing to pay for whatever it is he's going to get.
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Old 03-06-2017, 12:33 AM   #14
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I use a spacer nut inside socket. This lets the socket fit over the head of the anode nut. It works.
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Old 03-06-2017, 10:50 AM   #15
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Help!! Brand new 5th wheel, just de-winterized it and I am trying to put in the Anode rod and I cant get it to start threading. Any help or advice would be appreciated.
What I have done is pack my socket about half way with paper towel,,, then the socket will hold the rod so I can get it started straight !!!
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:00 PM   #16
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I canít thread the anode rod at all this time. I canít get it started by hand, even holding it straight, not tilted. Iím wondering if it has too much corosion from rust and bad water. The white stuff in the threads might be old Teflon tape though. I used a toothbrush with vinegar to scrub it out. It is a Suburban in a Roo. Should I try to re tap the threads? Iíve been playing with this for two days so far, I donít know what else to try.
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Old 07-24-2019, 05:03 PM   #17
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You might want to try one of these first. Will work better than a toothbrush.



https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...aner/80497_0_0

Cheap at any auto parts place.

If it doesn't help, then try chasing the threads.
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:21 PM   #18
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Pipe tap if you have one. Just clean donít rethread. I have used a shot gun brush and drill.
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:31 PM   #19
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What I have done is pack my socket about half way with paper towel,,, then the socket will hold the rod so I can get it started straight !!!
Same.
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Old 07-24-2019, 06:59 PM   #20
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I can’t thread the anode rod at all this time. I can’t get it started by hand, even holding it straight, not tilted. I’m wondering if it has too much corosion from rust and bad water. The white stuff in the threads might be old Teflon tape though. I used a toothbrush with vinegar to scrub it out. It is a Suburban in a Roo. Should I try to re tap the threads? I’ve been playing with this for two days so far, I don’t know what else to try.

IF ... you're sure the rod is NOT DROOPING and you're sure it IS STRAIGHT, ...then the machinist trick for starting a difficult thread, is to turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE, you will feel a thump when the male and female threads come to their beginnings, then you are at the start of each, ... and they should screw together(clockwise naturally) from there ...


if it is drooping because of the weight, wrap enough tape around the hex, so that when you force it into the socket, it will be tight enough to hold the rod up straight, ...
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