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07-30-2013, 06:50 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 204
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Another water heater question
Hi,
The water heater in my 2010 Catalina works just fine but my question is the switch for the electric element on the face of the water heater is extremely hard to switch on and off. I pushed and pushed and stopped without getting it to switch before I broke the switch. Is this switch always hard to push or am I missing doing something? I am trying to get it switched off so I can check the element for scaling and proper operation.
Thank you in advance!!
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07-30-2013, 06:56 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 172
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Hi
I suspect the switch is faulty or broken. It should be no more difficult than a light switch to push. My sandpiper has the same outside switch and is easy. Hope you can work it out. Maybe try some WD 40 in there to loosen it up. Won't hurt.
__________________
2013 Sandpiper 365SAQ
2008 Ford F350 Super Duty
6.4L Powerstroke Long Bed CC
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07-30-2013, 06:58 AM
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#3
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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That switch is notoriously hard to switch back n forth even when new.
I would buy a replacement.
Turbs
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07-30-2013, 06:59 AM
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#4
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerpa
Hi,
The water heater in my 2010 Catalina works just fine but my question is the switch for the electric element on the face of the water heater is extremely hard to switch on and off. I pushed and pushed and stopped without getting it to switch before I broke the switch. Is this switch always hard to push or am I missing doing something? I am trying to get it switched off so I can check the element for scaling and proper operation.
Thank you in advance!!
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I am thinking the switch is corroded internally and needs to be replaced.
If it is corroded "on" there is every likelihood that the heating element has been damaged if power has ever been on your camper without water in the tank.
If the heating element works, then I would leave it alone and use the circuit breaker in the power center to turn it on and off until you can get it repaired.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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07-30-2013, 07:20 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 204
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Thank you for the responses! I was thinking it was a bad switch. I was hoping not but I will look into getting a replacement as soon as possible. I am thinking the element is burnt out because with the propane tanks unhooked and the water heater electric switch on it won't get any warm let alone hot water!
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07-30-2013, 07:25 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Whitehouse, Texas
Posts: 1,275
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I had the same problem with my switch.
Within 2 years of new it failed to switch off.
Easy fix though. On mine it just popped out and I replaced it with one that lights up when toggled on. You should be able to buy one maybe at radio shack or an electronic shop. On ebay is another good place. Just make should it can handle the amperage.
I used butt connecters to attach the wires. Then I used heat shrink material to cover the connecters.
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07-30-2013, 07:28 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 204
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How much amperage are we talking about running threw this switch?
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07-30-2013, 07:29 AM
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#8
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerpa
How much amperage are we talking about running threw this switch?
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9-13 amps
Turbs
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07-30-2013, 07:38 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Whitehouse, Texas
Posts: 1,275
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I installed a 20 amp lighted rocker switch. Just because that's all they had.
Take the switch with you to the store to be sure of the correct dimensions.
The lighted part makes it easy to see if it is on or not.
The standard switches are not lighted and it always made me think of whether it was on or not. Especially if it is installed upside down.
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07-30-2013, 08:18 AM
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#10
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Kanadian Kamper
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 8,129
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Not trying to hijack this thread but, while we're on the topic of water heaters..........
I'm trouble-shooting my electric heating element. I measure 116 volts at the element for a short time then nothing. There is water in the tank, and using the propane heater works fine for water temperature.
I suspect a high temp thermostat may be the culprit, but only for the electric side of things. The fusible link on both units are good, and show continuity.
Any ideas?
Thanks
__________________
Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD, nicely modified and carried by a 2017 Ford E450 Sport
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count, pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain
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07-30-2013, 08:28 AM
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#11
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry
Not trying to hijack this thread but, while we're on the topic of water heaters..........
I'm trouble-shooting my electric heating element. I measure 116 volts at the element for a short time then nothing. There is water in the tank, and using the propane heater works fine for water temperature.
I suspect a high temp thermostat may be the culprit, but only for the electric side of things. The fusible link on both units are good, and show continuity.
Any ideas?
Thanks
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But you did anyway.
Is the water hot? The element does not stay on if the water reaches its normal operating temperature.
If not, you could have a short in your element that "opens" when the element heats up and closes when it cools down.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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07-30-2013, 09:20 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Whitehouse, Texas
Posts: 1,275
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Are you measuring 116 volts across the heater element?
There should be a 0 volt reading across the element.
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07-30-2013, 10:10 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: X
Posts: 2,781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry
Not trying to hijack this thread but, while we're on the topic of water heaters..........
I'm trouble-shooting my electric heating element. I measure 116 volts at the element for a short time then nothing. There is water in the tank, and using the propane heater works fine for water temperature.
I suspect a high temp thermostat may be the culprit, but only for the electric side of things. The fusible link on both units are good, and show continuity.
Any ideas?
Thanks
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If you have a shorted element this would be tripping your circuit breaker. You didn't indicate if you are resetting a breaker. Assuming you are not, then the 116-125 is a good reading. When it goes away, just follow the wire back that goes to other controls (like the thermostat). When you find the control that has 116v on one side and the zero (element) voltage on the other side, That is what's preventing the heating. Replace that. (The other side of your meter should stay on the neutral terminal of the element. That wire will not go thru any other controlling devices.)
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08-30-2013, 07:54 AM
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#14
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Kanadian Kamper
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 8,129
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Update>>>>>>>>>>>>
Turns out it WAS the T-Stat associated when using 110 Volt versus the T-Stat for the 12 Volt.
Although they look AMAZINGLY similar when you remove the rubber cover (the cover that says "PRESS TO RESET") I purchased the replacement T-Stat for less than $30 and all is good again. The failed unit didn't look any different from a new one................except that this one works!!!!!
__________________
Ken and Terry
2018 Sunseeker 2430S-CD, nicely modified and carried by a 2017 Ford E450 Sport
Former Georgetown 330TS owner for 10 years with more mods than I can count, pushed by our 2017 GMC Terrain
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08-30-2013, 11:18 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hattiesburg, MS
Posts: 1,658
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Question about the switch
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerpa
Hi,
The water heater in my 2010 Catalina works just fine but my question is the switch for the electric element on the face of the water heater is extremely hard to switch on and off. I pushed and pushed and stopped without getting it to switch before I broke the switch. Is this switch always hard to push or am I missing doing something? I am trying to get it switched off so I can check the element for scaling and proper operation.
Thank you in advance!!
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Please excuse me for asking the obvious.
I have a tendency for looking for the complicated when the simple answer is right in front of me. Could the cotter pin have been in the on/off switch? It is a PITA (for me)to get back in after pulling out so I just leave it out.
Just thought I'd throw this out there.
And if you replace the switch, does it just pull straight out?
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