Atwood water heater not igniting

[Adrian Gordon]

We have an Atwood water heater. Model G6A-8E. It is a six gallon, gas only, electronic ignition heater. It is original to our 2018 Coachmen Leprechaun 210RS and is a little over a year old.

When we turn the water heater on at the control panel inside the RV the igniter clicks, but I do not see any spark anywhere. The DSI light comes on, flickers a little and goes out. There is gas at the heater because we can smell it when we initially turn the switch on but the heater does not light off. It attempts to start a total of three times and then locks out until the switch on the control panel is reset. There is water in the tank and the valves are all set to the proper dewinterized positions. The system has worked within the past two days.

The 2 amp fuse on the tank circuit board is good. The 15 amp fuse in the fuse box labeled "Heat Tank" is also good, although I have no idea on earth what this fuse does given there is no electric heating capability with this unit.

Any ideas on where my problem may be?

[RandK-M]

I had a similar problem right at one year old, I could hear the click, click, click of the igniter, but no spark and then the red light would come on after three attempts. All I did to fix it was remove the igniter with the one little screw that holds it on and clean the probe and the area where it sparks to with a little wire brush, reinstall the igniter and it fired right up. It's been fine for two more seasons so far without failing....*Knock on Wood*


Ray

[Witch Doctor]

Try what Randk says first. Those atwoods are famous for bad boards, had the same problem mine was the garbage board. It wouldn't allow gas to pass. If it is the board, when you install the new one put a spacer in to keep it off the face, the solder joints break from that little heat on the face it seems, been a year now with mine no problems, but I also carry a spare board, they are that bad.

[cfo111]

sounds like air in system did you try lighting stove all burners? and start refrigerator on propane? then try your hot water tank.

[Beachbourbon]

Did you have water in the tank when you tried to light it? If so, the other thing to look at is next to the 2 amp fuse. It is called the thermal cut off. Easy, cheap replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[cavie]

The light coming on and then going out is supposed to be the indication that the heater did light. maybe bad board.

[Beachbourbon]

I assumed the winterize bypass valve is not still set to bypass. Did you check this?

[Bytesponge]

Originally Posted by RandK-M

I had a similar problem right at one year old, I could hear the click, click, click of the igniter, but no spark and then the red light would come on after three attempts. All I did to fix it was remove the igniter with the one little screw that holds it on and clean the probe and the area where it sparks to with a little wire brush, reinstall the igniter and it fired right up. It's been fine for two more seasons so far without failing....*Knock on Wood*


Ray

I think this is the best suggestion, so far. You have gas ,ignition, that eliminates a circuit board problem. I would also take suggestion and clean igniter and/or reset igniter gap before proceeding any further. IMHO

Bytesponge

[Adrian Gordon]

Originally Posted by RandK-M

I had a similar problem right at one year old, I could hear the click, click, click of the igniter, but no spark and then the red light would come on after three attempts. All I did to fix it was remove the igniter with the one little screw that holds it on and clean the probe and the area where it sparks to with a little wire brush, reinstall the igniter and it fired right up. It's been fine for two more seasons so far without failing....*Knock on Wood*


Ray

RandK-M, WitchDoctor and Bytesponge, Thank you. I think this is the best starting point too and as soon as the driving rain and wind down here on the Florida panhandle coast let up a little bit, I'll go give it a try. Appreciate the time and though of your responses.

[Adrian Gordon]

Originally Posted by cavie

The light coming on and then going out is supposed to be the indication that the heater did light. maybe bad board.

I know. Leaves me scratching my head too. If the suggestion for cleaning and checking the gap on the igniter doesn't work, this is my next guess.

[Adrian Gordon]

Originally Posted by Beachbourbon

Did you have water in the tank when you tried to light it?

Originally Posted by Beachbourbon

I assumed the winterize bypass valve is not still set to bypass. Did you check this?

Covered in the original post.

[Adrian Gordon]

Originally Posted by cfo111

sounds like air in system did you try lighting stove all burners? and start refrigerator on propane? then try your hot water tank.

Not sure I understand what you're saying. Can I have both gas at the heater and air in the system that would prevent that gas from igniting?

[johnlochbuie]

Replace circuit board it is bad easy to replace

[DEC43]

Before I went for a new board I would remove the tube that carries the air gas mixture (don't know what it is call) and run a small bottle brush thru it. I have had 3 occasions over 40+ years where a Spider has nested in that tube. You get gas smell, spark, but NO FIRE.

[cfo111]

What I said start you stove all burners and refrigerator let run a few minutes then try starting hot water tank.

[Adrian Gordon]

Originally Posted by cfo111

What I said start you stove all burners and refrigerator let run a few minutes then try starting hot water tank.

That really didn't respond to the question I asked you. I understand the process and have done it more than once. The question is how is it possible to have air in the lines and still have gas at the heater.

[rdolan5]

I had to replace the board on my Atwood water after only one year old! I put in an aftermarket "Dinosaur aftermarket board". Connections matched and quite a bit cheaper. Has worked now for the past two seasons!

[Scrapper]

Having a slight smell of LP while the wh is trying to ignite is a sign of a dirty orifice, bugs or spider webs in the burner tube or flue. For any other problems see the forums Library section for the following.

Atwood Water Heater Troubleshooting Guide : http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...do=file&id=189

[Adrian Gordon]

Originally Posted by DEC43

Before I went for a new board I would remove the tube that carries the air gas mixture (don't know what it is call) and run a small bottle brush thru it. I have had 3 occasions over 40+ years where a Spider has nested in that tube. You get gas smell, spark, but NO FIRE.

Thanks for the idea. Tube was clean and wire brushing igniter as suggested by one of the early responses also didn't work.


Spoke with Dometic/Atwood about the problem. They asked for the manufacturer and date code from the circuit board. When I provided that they didn't ask for anything else. They are overnighting a new circuit board. While I'm not happy about being without hot water, I have absolutely no complaint about the quality of the customer service. Fortunately, we're in a campground with good, clean showers!

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Adrian Gordon

Thanks for the idea. Tube was clean and wire brushing igniter as suggested by one of the early responses also didn't work.


Spoke with Dometic/Atwood about the problem. They asked for the manufacturer and date code from the circuit board. When I provided that they didn't ask for anything else. They are overnighting a new circuit board. While I'm not happy about being without hot water, I have absolutely no complaint about the quality of the customer service. Fortunately, we're in a campground with good, clean showers!

Yes, they know they have a bunch of these bad boards from China out there, I'm glad they didn't hassle you, good for them, remember to put a spacer in and get it off the face, so some air will circulate around it. Even if it's only a couple of washers.