Bathroom faucet - Now I'm in trouble!!

[papakilo]

Originally Posted by robsshots

Okay, our nickel-dime bathroom faucet hot water handle just disintegrated one day. No way to fix or replace, apparently. Talk about cheap stuff. shame on you, FR.

anyway, trying to change this faucet is virtually impossible. The faucet is up against the bathroom wall, and access from below is blocked by the sink, water lines, and a shelf. The cabinet, countertop, and shelf is pretty nigh impossible to remove as the screws that hold them in place cannot be accessed.

I was able to break free the connector to the cold water faucet, but it doesn't turn to complete the disconnect. Borrowed a plumbing tool to help with the impossible angle, and no luck. Cannot break free the hot water connection; it is simply on there too tightly. And I tried my friend's plumbing tool to grip it and break it free, but no luck. Almost impossible angles to try to get at these dang connections. I bought a replacement faucet at Camping World, but now appears I'll have to return it since there seems to be no human way to remove the existing faucet. If it sounds like I am about to snap, and am thinking the dunces at FR need a lesson or two in design, you are correct. I promised my wife when she left at 7 am this morning that when she got back at 1 pm it would be job done.

If I am "stuck" with this cheap crap, then it is just a matter of time before the cold water handle disintegrates like the hot water handle did. Then I am very serious trouble. There is no brand name on the factory installed faucet, so no way to get the parts to fix that - if such a thing was possible (highly unlikely.) Sure wish FR/Rockwood put more quality fixtures in with easy access for repairs. Pretty easy to do, and would happily have paid another $50 for my rig to have it the right way instead of this insanity.

Okay, rant over - anyone got a brilliant idea to save me and my faucet??

If it was me, I would take it to an RV service place and have a professional repair it. They are used to these kinds of problems.

[BobbyB]

It took considerable effort, but I changed ours. Doing so with channel lock pliers and half a day. The wrench looks interesting, I have a stardard faucet wrench and it is of no help. It can be done

[kayo]

There are tools you can get at Home Depot/Lowes t hat can unscrew those bolts. I got one to use with a residential sink in our stick house

[D. J. Schuler]

Bubbles has the right idea. Looks like one sink nut to unscrew. Be sure to reseal sink.

[Murbella7]

Originally Posted by robsshots

Photos of my predicament

Attachment 159894

Attachment 159895

Attachment 159896

Attachment 159897

Attachment 159898

A screwdriver will remove the top (white) bit. But you don't need to remove this. In fact you can leave the top section alone, unless you plan to change any of the internals, to fix a drip, none of which will work by the way. A full replacement tap set is the only solution for that.

Next you remove the pipework. The pipe nuts should be hand tightened, but probably will have seized a bit over time. This may take a little extra effort.

You need to undo both hot and cold pipes and nuts to get the assembly out. The set is joined by the mixer arrangement under the chrome top plate so the taps do not separate from the rest of the assembly.

After the pipes have been removed (and you have mopped up all the water), now you can get to the nuts that hold the assembly together.

You will need a tube spanner to undo the nut (in the red circle). This nut clamps the tap to the benchtop. I can't remember what size the tube spanner is because I had one the right size in my tool kit. First thing I grabbed and it fit so didn't look any closer at it. A socket won't be deep enough to reach the nut before it bottoms-out.

The tee junction in my photo is an 'aftermarket' extension to a new tap I fitted for the washing machine.

When the nut has been removed, the assembly simply pulls out. Be aware that there will still be water in the pipes so put some towels down before you start.

This is what the thing looks like from the other side (on an island bench).

BTW, these are not ceramic taps, even though they are quarter-turn. The mechanism consists of a small, thin metal plate with two tiny holes (for the water) and under that a little spring-loaded rubber washer/cup thing that wears quickly, hence the leaks.

Hope this helps.

[D. J. Schuler]

Murbella7 could write a manual, not trying to be sarcastic. It might ce a good idea to drain, using the low point drains. If your water heater is full bypass. Might want to put inline valves while your at it.

[locoengnr11]

Originally Posted by robsshots

Okay, our nickel-dime bathroom faucet hot water handle just disintegrated one day. No way to fix or replace, apparently. Talk about cheap stuff. shame on you, FR.

anyway, trying to change this faucet is virtually impossible. The faucet is up against the bathroom wall, and access from below is blocked by the sink, water lines, and a shelf. The cabinet, countertop, and shelf is pretty nigh impossible to remove as the screws that hold them in place cannot be accessed.

I was able to break free the connector to the cold water faucet, but it doesn't turn to complete the disconnect. Borrowed a plumbing tool to help with the impossible angle, and no luck. Cannot break free the hot water connection; it is simply on there too tightly. And I tried my friend's plumbing tool to grip it and break it free, but no luck. Almost impossible angles to try to get at these dang connections. I bought a replacement faucet at Camping World, but now appears I'll have to return it since there seems to be no human way to remove the existing faucet. If it sounds like I am about to snap, and am thinking the dunces at FR need a lesson or two in design, you are correct. I promised my wife when she left at 7 am this morning that when she got back at 1 pm it would be job done.

If I am "stuck" with this cheap crap, then it is just a matter of time before the cold water handle disintegrates like the hot water handle did. Then I am very serious trouble. There is no brand name on the factory installed faucet, so no way to get the parts to fix that - if such a thing was possible (highly unlikely.) Sure wish FR/Rockwood put more quality fixtures in with easy access for repairs. Pretty easy to do, and would happily have paid another $50 for my rig to have it the right way instead of this insanity.

Okay, rant over - anyone got a brilliant idea to save me and my faucet??

try to a Ridgid Basin wrench it has a extention to reach up behind the basin,probably rent one from home depot,

[Murbella7]

Originally Posted by D. J. Schuler

Murbella7 could write a manual, not trying to be sarcastic. It might ce a good idea to drain, using the low point drains. If your water heater is full bypass. Might want to put inline valves while your at it.

I found that with the mains disconnected and the pump off, residual water in the pipes near the workplace (see what I did there) is the only issue.

I forgot to mention that BEFORE you play with taps and retaining nuts, etc, you will need to open the taps to release the pressure in the pipes. With no pressure in the system, water in the HW tank should not rise to the pipes. Failure to do this will results in the need for you to go outside and wring yourself out and dry off.

[Charles Parker]

I had the same problem with my kitchen sink faucet, but I was lucky to be able to get to the nuts holding it off. I found a new faucet online and replaced it. It is an all metal one, so it should be better. If you can't get the nuts off from the bottom of the lav, I would cut it off. Since it is plastic, it should come off fairly easy. You have to get a dremel tool or something to cut it off without damaging your counter top, but it will come off with the right tools. Good luck.

[DAISY BOYKIN]

Purchase a new same faucet assembly, replace damaged part with parts from the new faucet. You will be using the same faucet body. Just replaced bath side with new parts.

Good luck.

[DouglasReid]

Here is the tool you need. It is called a Basin Wrench. The head flips over to alternately loosen and tighten the line first then the large plastic nut which holds the faucet to the sink or countertop.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/BrassCraft-...ench/999903643

If the shelf does not allow you to use the wrench then you will have to cut the shelf out to allow you to use the wrench. The tool I recommend for that is:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/WORX-8-Piec...Kit/1000053171

There are other similar saws but for those who only use it occasionally this will work just fine.

The only other option is to remove the sink. Unscrew the sink from below and lift it up off the countertop. The faucet can then be disconnected from the sink, the new faucet connected and the sink reattached.

This is one of the things you have to deal with when you have such cramped spaces with as many amenities as possible crammed into that limited space. Unfortunately amenities sell campers, NOT ease of maintenance.

[Mountainmanbob]

I replaced both of our sinks bathroom and kitchen a year or two ago. The bathroom sink was a true challenge.

On my back I crawled all the way in there and it took a while. With a flashlight and a basin wrench got the old one out put the new one in.

Our local RV repair place I think charges like $90 with a minimum 1 hour saved myself 90 bucks but it wasn't easy.

Although it seems practically impossible.
It can be done.

M-Bob

[Danx2]

Is this what you need
https://www.rvautoparts.com/DF-RKC-W...YaAs0sEALw_wcB

[Moosey1]

Yeah, if the tool won't reach, remove the sink. Thanks for sharing

[crunchman12001]

Originally Posted by bjlakatos

Back to removing the sink--are u sure it is glued? I have never seen one that didn't use plumbers putty. That is the gray stuff u see oozing out of the sink rim that touches the counter top.

Plumbers putty is pliable, mostly stays soft for the life of the sink, allows the sink to be removable and creates an effective water barrier.

To remove the sink, loosen the underside clips that hold it to the counter top. Use putty knife to gently pry the sink from the counter top. Use firm but slow pressure and it will lift off.

Use new plumbers putty when reinstalling the sink.

The faucet is all plastic and most are Dura Faucet brand, not worth repairing. ( EDIT... I had to replace the counter top in my old rig, Why don't you just pull the whole top, sink and faucet as one after cutting the lines?)
If I could not get the supply lines lose, I would cut them as suggested above. Buy a PEX crimp tool and re-install the fittings. I would also buy 12" braided lines to extend the supply lines to allow some wiggle room for the new faucet install.
Keep us posted.

[Villagerjjm]

I replaced mine with a "Bar Style" faucet. It has a higher gooseneck and can be swiveled out of the way. It is chromed plastic... bought it at ACE Hardware for $19.99. It works great. The hardest part of the install was doing the "limbo" during the install. The good thing is that the plastic fittings did not need a set of tools to release and re tighten. Using a wrench could actually ruin the fittings.

[TLAK]

Its the same faucet I replaced in my FR3. There are no serviceable parts, washers or cartridges. When it leaks it's dead and you have no choice but to replace it.

The connections are all hand tighten plastic, like wing nuts. Both on the water lines and nuts that hold it to counter, so none of the wrenches will help you.

I laid on the floor on my back with my head in the cabinet and still couldn't see so I just felt my way up the water line with my hand until I found the water line nut and loosened it, let it drop down the line. Then followed the water line up again until I found the bigger nut under the counter. Even though you are working blind, by the time you get both sides off you have a 'feel' for where they go and its no trouble installing the new ones. No comfortable, but doable.

My new faucet has replaceable cartridges.

[Jim in Halifax]

Originally Posted by bubbles

Pull the sink.

X2!!!
They had to install the unit

[53169ri]

you can reach in and do it with a faucet wrench.i replaced mine which had the same setup as yours.remove hot and cold lines first.

[Jim in Halifax]

Originally Posted by Jim in Halifax

X2!!!
They had to install the unit

Just another suggestion.....Since you are replacing the taps I would go to a hardware/pluming store and purchase two 3/8" (?) flex pipes and attach to the faucet ass'y which will hang down within sight and adapt blue/red plastic pipes accordingly....