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Old 08-01-2017, 10:59 AM   #1
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Black Gate Valve Leaking?

The past couple of times I have gone to dump, or hook up the hose, when I remove the cap, I am greeted with up to a pint of stinky brown fluid - which immediately drains out since I can't get the hose on fast enough to catch it.

Is this an indication the black gate valve is leaking? Maybe something is trapped in the track, cause a small leak? I dunno, any suggestions on resolving this cheaply and effectively?
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Old 08-01-2017, 11:47 AM   #2
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The best ounce of prevention is to install a twist on valve on the terminal end.

If the blade valve is leaking, it's pretty easy to replace if there's access to it. If there's no access then you have to pull the underbelly covering off in that location and that can be a bit of a choir depending on where the valve is actually located.

You really want to make sure the tank is clean and empty before fooling with that valve! ops:
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Old 08-01-2017, 12:07 PM   #3
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Very possible something is caught in the blade valve. They do come apart easily (4 bolts) but you have to have access so if as mentioned, it is in an underbelly, you'll need to remove that to get to the blade valve.

In the interim, to remedy the small amount of liquid that comes out when you take the cap off, buy and install (just twists on the sewer port) a termination valve.
You'll then have a second line of defense against the leaky one.

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Old 08-01-2017, 12:13 PM   #4
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I would say if you think it's closed and fluid is getting past it then yes, It's probably leaking.

You could try a good flush to see if it's something in the seals. If you don't have a flush connection you can try running a bunch of water through the system with the valve open. This may help.

If it doesn't, I'd recommend pulling it apart. I did this recently myself and found that someone had flushed a large suction cup hook down the toilet. It was firmly lodged in the valve and I couldn't see it until I pulled it apart.

If you go to the work of removing the valve, replace it. You don't want to go back in there if the seal is bad too. I'm very happy with the new Valterra valves I've put in my camper.
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Old 08-01-2017, 07:48 PM   #5
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On my previous TT I had the same problem. I also had an enclosed undercarriage I had to cut a large square hole in to access the cable operated valves. I learned many things about RV dump valves, both grey and black. One of the most important is to clean the tank and drain line very, repeat very, good before starting. One very useful tool I bought is a round brush designed to clean clothes dryer ducts. With the black water valve open you can insert this brush into the piping all the way up into the tank. It's hard to get into the grey water piping depending on the pipe's configuration but it can be done. By inserting this brush and rotating it as you push it in one can really clean the piping and valves.
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Old 08-02-2017, 12:24 PM   #6
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I have a similar problem and use an oil pan type container under the sewer drain before I remove the cap to capture anything that comes out before I get the hose attached. Then I just dump the oil pan contents down the sewer.
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Old 08-02-2017, 01:41 PM   #7
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The gate valve 5picker showed you is the easiest fix. I replaced my gate valve and I have an enclosed underbelly with a remote cable. What a mistake that was, never again lots of work and could fail again. If the twist on valve fails just twist it off and put a new one on. Also if one of the gray valves ever leak you have the fix already on
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Old 08-02-2017, 01:55 PM   #8
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as a temporary workaround hold the end of the hose under the cap when you remove it, seems lite there is always a few drops.

do work on it with the tank at least mostly empty drive the dump side of the trailer on blocks, everything will be on the far side then and more room to work
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Old 08-02-2017, 03:21 PM   #9
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Wisdom

I'll bestow on you a little wisdom given to me by a lifelong Rv,er. Any inkling of a problem with tour drain valves, especially the black one, it's prudent to replace immediately if not sooner. Worse case scenario is that it goes bad with a full black tank and your searching for a portapotty company to suck out your tank before you can fix it. Valves are ten bucks and takes minutes to change out, if you can get to it. Much cheaper than the alternative. Good luck
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:28 AM   #10
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i had the same problem but it bugs me as to how it is happening. i always drain the tanks when we leave a campground. then i close all the valves and put the cap on the drain. then we travel. at the next site i take off the cap to hook up the sewer hose and there is normally a quart or so of discharge. where did it come from? i drained the tanks and closed the valves? obviously the drain is not the low point in the tank when the trailer is level as there has to be some fluid left in it even though it has stopped draining. and somehow it sloshes past the closed valve when travelling. I've started to tilt the trailer when i drain the tanks to get the remaining fluid out and that seems to help get it more completely drained. next trip i'm going to experiment a bit. close the valves, disconnect the hose, put a bucket under the outlet, and leave the cap off to see if the valves leak when stationary or only when travelling.
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Old 08-03-2017, 10:51 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by CHICKDOE View Post
i had the same problem but it bugs me as to how it is happening. i always drain the tanks when we leave a campground. then i close all the valves and put the cap on the drain. then we travel. at the next site i take off the cap to hook up the sewer hose and there is normally a quart or so of discharge. where did it come from? i drained the tanks and closed the valves? obviously the drain is not the low point in the tank when the trailer is level as there has to be some fluid left in it even though it has stopped draining. and somehow it sloshes past the closed valve when travelling. I've started to tilt the trailer when i drain the tanks to get the remaining fluid out and that seems to help get it more completely drained. next trip i'm going to experiment a bit. close the valves, disconnect the hose, put a bucket under the outlet, and leave the cap off to see if the valves leak when stationary or only when travelling.
I've had a few rigs that exhibited this too.
I don't think anything gets past the valve after closing but rather there is some residual liquid left in the plumbing from the tank valve (usually located right near the tank) and the sewer port. (often times feet from the tank)

I could let it sit and drain for an hour, close it up and when I got home or at the next stop, some liquid would be at the cap. I think just the movement of the rig in motion allowed the residual liquid in the pipe, get to the cap.
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Old 08-03-2017, 11:08 AM   #12
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Thanks for all the replies. I've only got about ten inches from the valve to the cap and I always drain completely - in fact I close the valve while the flush is still connected and flowing, and there is no residual drainage after the valve is closed. I always leave a bit in the tank to swish around with the GEO stuff and hopefully clean up any residue. I think I'll just add the second valve, it's an easy fix.
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Old 08-03-2017, 11:47 AM   #13
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The 2nd valve for me is a must. New camper or not a black water shower is NOT something you want to be taking, especially when your all done camping and ready to get on the road for a long ride! As discussed previously you will probably not get all the water out anyway depending how the camper was sitting when you drained it. I would fix your primary valve but sometimes they don't close very tight and residual will still sneak through. And as a sidebar comment, for a 3rd line of defense I use a clear 45 degree swivel fitting (like the one pictured below) for my hookup so I can see when the coast is clear!
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:13 PM   #14
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I usually get maybe a quarter cup of gray water when I pop the cap on my MH. I believe this is from the galley tank on the opposite side, and that it is residual water that must travel thru a long horizontal pipe that doesn't drain very fast. Rather than sit there and watch it dribble, I just go around and shut the valve and move on. Even if it stopped draining at the dump station, I think subsequent driving motion would get a little more out of the horizontal piping. The only thing that would help in my case would be to raise the galley tank side of the vehicle and allow extra time for draining.
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Old 08-03-2017, 12:32 PM   #15
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The only thing I don't like about my extra (add-on) gate valve (I have the Valterra like someone suggested) is that it sticks out too far on my rig. I just about broke it off a few weeks ago at a gas station. It was after that when I replaced the valves on the tank. I know the potential is there without it too. However, that extra 4 inches or so is a good thing to have in some instances.
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Old 08-03-2017, 05:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5picker View Post
Very possible something is caught in the blade valve. They do come apart easily (4 bolts) but you have to have access so if as mentioned, it is in an underbelly, you'll need to remove that to get to the blade valve.

In the interim, to remedy the small amount of liquid that comes out when you take the cap off, buy and install (just twists on the sewer port) a termination valve.
You'll then have a second line of defense against the leaky one.

Winner Winner Chicken Dinner

All of my tanks leak a little bit.

One of the best things you'll ever get.
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Old 08-03-2017, 06:11 PM   #17
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That's how I went. And since it's Amazon, I added a ten foot extension hose for sewer and a brass 90 deg adapter for fresh water. You know, to get the free Prime shipping.
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Old 08-03-2017, 07:56 PM   #18
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Amazon is your friend.
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