Blackwater Valve Leaking

[jjhill]

2013 Rockwood 2304S

Took delivery in May 2012.

Used first weekend trip July 13, 14, & 15. New Hampshire

First week trip August 5-11 New Hampshire

Noticed on both trips when we first hooked up the camper that there was water/fluid in the outlet from the Blackwater/Graywater. When I twisted of the cap there was about a gallon of water flowing out. I twisted my sewer hose and emptied the tanks.

Is there an adjustment on the valve to make it tighter so no leaking?

Thanks
Jack

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by jjhill

2013 Rockwood 2304S

Took delivery in May 2012.

Used first weekend trip July 13, 14, & 15. New Hampshire

First week trip August 5-11 New Hampshire

Noticed on both trips when we first hooked up the camper that there was water/fluid in the outlet from the Blackwater/Graywater. When I twisted of the cap there was about a gallon of water flowing out. I twisted my sewer hose and emptied the tanks.

Is there an adjustment on the valve to make it tighter so no leaking?

Thanks
Jack

No really jack sounds as if there's some tp stuck around valve or such.
If not seal might have rolled in housing..
When empty try sliding valve in and out several times fast.
Ron

[Herk7769]

Depending on your model camper, a gallon is either full pipes or almost full.

Is it possible the handle was not returned to the fully closed position?

If you are sure it was closed, then F1100turbo is probably correct; bio-matter or a wad of TP was left in the valve track.

ALWAYS fill the black tank with water before you dump. A weekend is not enough usage to dump solids without adding additional water to provide the volume to completely clear the valve and pipes of black water.

Also always dump the black first; then gray so the gray water will clean the pipes. If the camper is not completely level when you dumped, water can be trapped in the pipes. Later when you are more level, that water can be found up against the end cap. If your gonna get your shoes wet; it is better to be gray water than black.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by herk7769

... If your gonna get your shoes wet; it is better to be gray water than black.

So true! I installed a clear elbow on mine and put the cap on it. That way I can see what, if anything, is in there just waiting!

[jjhill]

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try and close the valve swiftly the next time we are at the campground.

It seems odd that both our units would be doing the exact same thing.

If this continues and the seal is "pinched" or has moved how do you fix it?

I think I know the remedy and am not going to like it.....

Thanks
Jack

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by jjhill

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try and close the valve swiftly the next time we are at the campground.

It seems odd that both our units would be doing the exact same thing.

If this continues and the seal is "pinched" or has moved how do you fix it?

I think I know the remedy and am not going to like it.....

Thanks
Jack

Swiftly is not the problem and might make it worse. Open the valve and FLUSH it out with LOTS of water. Close the valve; let it fill; then dump and flush again.

That should clear any crud out of the valve track.

Hopefully that will fix it.

[TURBS]

Originally Posted by jjhill

Thanks for the suggestions. I will try and close the valve swiftly the next time we are at the campground.

It seems odd that both our units would be doing the exact same thing.

If this continues and the seal is "pinched" or has moved how do you fix it?

I think I know the remedy and am not going to like it.....

Thanks
Jack

True that ! Remedy is not going to be fun !
Good luck

[Thurman]

Only IF you have the cable operated vavles: I have these and noticed that each time I removed the cap on the drain line there would be at least a gallon of liquid in the drain line. I had to get under there to find out what was going on. The grey water valve would not completely close off with the handle in all the way. I finally figured out that the cable was being pushed all the way in but the valve seat was not being completely closed. There is an adjustment on the piece the cable fits into on the valve, not the threaded part, the hole the actual cable goes into. I loosened the set screw, pushed the valve completely closed, pulled back on the cable just a tiny bit, then clamped down on the set screw. So far this has worked.

[Patrickdana]

On my Columbus 325 the cable operated blackwater valve leaked the first time the cap was removed for a dump. After much deliberation and inspection, I discovered that it is adjustable at the t handle mount. The large nut adjusts the closing of the valve. If the valve leaks, turn the nut to the right. You should notice the shaft moving out as you turn the nut. Push the valve back in and check for leaks. If it still leaks, repeat the process. It apparently works like the break adjustment at the hand lever on a bicycle. I flushed the tank several times before making the adjustment.

[jrat]

I have a 2013 model 233s that does the same thing. First time it was black tank, last time it was gray water.

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by herk7769

Is it possible the handle was not returned to the fully closed position?

That would be my 1st guess. On mine, the slide valve seems to close, but then there is an extra little 1/2 inch or so before it goes fully into the closed position.

[Pipeman]

I installed an end of the line valve. You can get it at wally mart, a RV store etc. It goes on where your cap is now. You just put it in place of the cap and then put the cap on the valve. Then you can put a bucket under the valve, open it and then whatever is there will not empty onto your feet. When I empty the black water tank I use a clear elbow on the end of the valve and that way you can see when the water is clear if you're using a flush wand or built in flush system. If you're boondocking then the grey water is saved until you empty the blackwater. Use the grey to rinse out the pipe and the hose. I try to let all the black and grey water drain from the system. It seems that when you close up the drains and put the cap back on there is some left over fluids that will drain to the cap and wait to ambush you when you take the cap off. Therefore the end of line valve. Hope this 2 cents worth helps.

[jdadoug]

I had the same problem on my Cardinal, cap dripping "stuff". My valves are way in under the sheet metal underneath and I wasnt about to tear that all down to fix it. So I did like Pipeman did, got one from CW and put er on. I also use the clear elbow and now its nice to be able to slip the hose on with out getting my feet wet each time.

I allways fill the black tank full before dumping and also use the black tank rinser. I think I had to wait in line once this summer to dump and allways had pleanty of time to rinse the tank multiple times. I've been using the Geo Method and its been working reallly good. jdadoug

[Pipeman]

I also would like to add the problem I had this past summer. My black water valve stopped working. I had pulled it out to drain the black water and when I tried to push it back in, it wouldn't go in. I used a rubber hammer to pound it back in. I then tried to pull it out, just to make sure it worked. It didn't. Now we were 2000 miles from home. I was able to call a RV place nearby and they said bring it in......now. It took an hour and a half to pack up and get the 5r there. After being told that we're living in it, they looked at it and said that a new valve was needed and it would take about 2 weeks to get that particular brand in. I said we'd be on our way by then. They suggested using the end of line valve, I have on the pipe, as my black water valve. The only problem with that is not being able to leave the grey water valves in the open position. Too make a long story short, we got home, took the 5er to our dealer and they said it was the cable and not the valve. They replaced the cable to the black water valve and also the one to the grey water valve. I have to tell you that the cable to the black water valve had to be 8 ft. long. Why I don't know. My dealer put on shorter ones. I haven't been able to try them as I had winterized the 5er before it went to the dealer. Now the original black water valve was hard to open and close right from when we bought the 5er new. I always had some liquid at the cap when I opened it and washed my feet. So I guess what I'm saying is if you are having that liquid at the cap, maybe it's the valve sticking or hanging up just enough to allow seepage.

[Herk7769]

While there is nothing wrong with my dump valves, I added an end of line valve for several reasons.

1) If a dump valve fails to close for any reason (TP in the valve, rolled O-ring, etc), I won't get my "feet wet" finding out.

2) In an emergency, I can partially dump my gray tank water into the black tank by using the closed end of line valve to make a path to the black tank. As long as you don't get greedy and let them equalize, no black water should enter the connecting pipe. Just fill the connecting pipe with gray water first; then pop open the black tank for a few seconds at a time so the push is into the thank.

3) Makes cleaning out the tanks easier when using the turbo flush.

4) FAST closure of the dump mast if you overfill your blue boy due to inattention. The spill will be limited to the short hose (8-12 inches) from the shutoff valve to the blue boy inlet; rather than the entire dump mast plus the hose.

Also replacing the sewer cap with one that has a hose connection will allow dumping of gray water using you "black water only" hose at campgrounds which allow gray water dumping into gray water pits without using the larger sewer hose that gets everyone upset you might be dumping black water, too.