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10-12-2017, 01:21 PM
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#21
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah
Posts: 39
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Last Fall when I winterized for the first time, I screwed up big time! I drained my water heater and replaced my anode rod. I noticed a lot of crud coming out of heater so I flushed out the heater with a garden hose, BIG MISTAKE!
I didn't open up the bypass valve first to isolate my water heater. Crud traveled thruout the lines and plugged up screens in every sink, toilet, shower. OOPS! Hope this keeps you from making same mistake that takes hours to fix.
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2016 Rockwood 2109S
2014 RAM 3500 - Cummins
165 Watts of Rooftop Solar
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10-12-2017, 02:07 PM
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#22
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Site Team
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Northen IL
Posts: 8,288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlsailor
I never thought about that, I suppose because I never take the anode rod out. I usually take off the drain plug, then put it back on when the WH is empty. I can see the point, I guess, if one were to take out the anode rod. It's a better suggestion than anything of which I thought.
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What are you referring to as the "drain plug"? If it's a plastic plug on your WH, then you have an Atwood and don't have or need an anode rod.
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10-12-2017, 04:27 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Twin Cities, Minnesota
Posts: 320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybob
It could be a safety concern. A WH full of pressurized air will shoot the anode rod a good distance if it is removed unless the pressure is released. It could easily injure someone. It will do this even with water in it, but the amount of pressurized air on a WH with water in it is less.
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Compressed air can be very dangerous, much more so than pressurized water. It is far safer to bypass the water heater when blowing out the water lines.
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2015 Wildcat 282 RKX
2011 F350 Lariat, 6.7 L. Diesel, 8 ft., SRW, Reese R20
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10-12-2017, 04:31 PM
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#24
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Canada
Posts: 39
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Always drain and bypass WT before using air.
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10-12-2017, 06:16 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 30
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I never air blow. Even with the correct air pressure i've seen water tubing connection loosen up and even unhooking. They don't build them like they use to .
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10-14-2017, 10:19 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lappy
I never air blow. Even with the correct air pressure i've seen water tubing connection loosen up and even unhooking. They don't build them like they use to .
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Rather have air leaks then find the water puddle, have found both ways. These homes are Mobil and all the shaking and bouncing will loosen up mechanical connections. I check for new leaks every spring.....well every time I turn on the water. Also shut it off when leaving camp. As for the isolate the WH do it. If it is empty of water it just becomes a air compressor receiver and can take forever to blow down. I use air then pink stuff sucked it to the pump to the kitchen sink, pump is right below, so I know when water is completely out of pump and filter, then pump it to the toilet to protect that valve. One drop of water in that valve will break it. Rest of the Gal into the traps and done. Just had our 1st frost This morning but we are going out next weekend for the final trip of the year so our 2 small oil heaters into the rig today and it should be good for another week.
Happy camping.
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Dale & Karen
2015 Lacrosse 311RLS
2006 F-250 The 06-6.0
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10-14-2017, 10:34 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Central Upstate NY
Posts: 148
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Just attended a seminar last weekend on winterizing RV/TT's; the techs (who winterize literally hundreds of them every fall and "de-winterize" them in several months later) explained that using low-pressure air (per the manual instructions... usually ~35 psi maximum) is safe, but to consider that a form of "insurance". Draining, blowing out, and instilling the proper RV anti-freeze to the system (again, per the manufacturer's instructions) is the only way to help prevent problems later on.
Here is a link to a good explanation of the types of anti-freeze:
http://mainecamperdealer.com/what-yo...v-anti-freeze/
Another consideration that I was previously not aware of is that the Propolene Glycol anti-freeze is far easier to clear from the system; the ethanol based stuff will require many hours and gallons of water to get rid of the nasty taste and smell.
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10-14-2017, 10:57 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Summit1
Just attended a seminar last weekend on winterizing RV/TT's; the techs (who winterize literally hundreds of them every fall and "de-winterize" them in several months later) explained that using low-pressure air (per the manual instructions... usually ~35 psi maximum) is safe, but to consider that a form of "insurance". Draining, blowing out, and instilling the proper RV anti-freeze to the system (again, per the manufacturer's instructions) is the only way to help prevent problems later on.
Here is a link to a good explanation of the types of anti-freeze:
What you need to know about RV Anti-Freeze - J&M Camper Sales - Maine Camper DealerJ&M Camper Sales – Maine Camper Dealer
Another consideration that I was previously not aware of is that the Propolene Glycol anti-freeze is far easier to clear from the system; the ethanol based stuff will require many hours and gallons of water to get rid of the nasty taste and smell.
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The ethanol stuff will KILL you And it doesn't take a lot. That's why you NEVER use it in an RV. And that's why you're not allowed to flush your engine block to the ground anymore.
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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10-14-2017, 06:11 PM
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#29
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PhD, Common Sense
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Fairborn, OH
Posts: 1,384
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Isn’t ethanol the kind of alcohol in booze? I thought methanol was the dangerous stuff.
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10-14-2017, 07:56 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eye95
Isn’t ethanol the kind of alcohol in booze? I thought methanol was the dangerous stuff.
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The most common forms of antifreeze for most of us is either Propylene Glycol or Ethylene Glycol, although methanol and gylcerol are also used.
PG is non-toxic and used for winterizing RV's, as well as in food preparation equipment.
EG is used in automobiles and other such machinery.
I'm unaware of ethanol being used in antifreeze, so I assumed the poster meant "ethylene."
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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10-15-2017, 07:47 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,502
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My cheap 2.00/gallon RV antifreeze is ethanol based.
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10-15-2017, 12:23 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 10,907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skyliner
My cheap 2.00/gallon RV antifreeze is ethanol based.
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What brand?
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)
2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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11-10-2017, 10:28 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clhjsh
I have tried both way's and I can honestly say to bypass the water heater and drain it via the drain plug and use air to complete the rest. If you use compressed air to force the water out of the water heater you will be pushing air thru the system for a lonnnng time.
It easily takes twice as long to winterize.
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I have always done what you described, draining the water heater via the drain plug first, except for leaving the bypass valve open. Perhaps the thought is that if you drain the water heater and then reseat the drain plug, then blow the system out with the bypass valve open, you'll get some water back in the water heater. I wouldn't think you'd get enough to matter (I never have in the past) but perhaps you could?
__________________
2018 Coachmen Freedom Express 248 RBS
2014 Toyota Sequoia
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11-10-2017, 11:14 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mogman
Look at your bypass valve. Is it on a vertical line between the hot and cold lines? If it is then the water will stay on top of the bp valve in the line. Air will not move it. This water will freeze in winter and crack the bp valve. Ask me how I know!!
Always open the bypass valve when winterizing.
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Photo is attached. Is this what you're talking about?
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2018 Coachmen Freedom Express 248 RBS
2014 Toyota Sequoia
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11-10-2017, 11:16 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlsailor
Photo is attached. Is this what you're talking about?
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At least I thought photo was attached. I'll try again.
__________________
2018 Coachmen Freedom Express 248 RBS
2014 Toyota Sequoia
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11-10-2017, 11:18 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
If you pressurized the tank I GUARANTEE YOU will have "WHITE CRUD " Downstream! Youroo! !
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I've not had it in the past, but I can see how it could easily happen. I hadn't thought of that.
__________________
2018 Coachmen Freedom Express 248 RBS
2014 Toyota Sequoia
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11-10-2017, 11:21 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo
If you pressurized the tank I GUARANTEE YOU will have "WHITE CRUD " Downstream! Youroo! !
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mogman
2nd point...look at your water pump. There is a filter attached to it. After all your blowing thru the system, unscrew the filter and make sure it is clean and empty. That can hold water and will freeze and crack.
This is the voice of experience!!!
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Something of which I'd not thought, and good advice. Looking at the photo I just posted, I don't see a filter, however. I'll look next time I'm at the trailer lot.
[edit: It occurred to me that you are not talking about a hose type filter, but the water line filter. My water line filter is hooked up between the city water supply faucet outdoors and the hose to the trailer. HOWEVER, I do leave it in the trailer after I remove it , so if it still has water in it, it may be done for. But I need to replace it next spring anyway, so perhaps it's not the issue that an internal one would be. At least I think that's what you're talking about. Thanks for the thought.]
__________________
2018 Coachmen Freedom Express 248 RBS
2014 Toyota Sequoia
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11-10-2017, 11:24 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mwdilday
The water flows in the bottom of the water heater and out the top. Putting compressed air in the bottom of the water heater will only bubble thru the 6-12 gallons of water and continue thru the system as air. The water in the water heater will flow back into the rest of the system as soon as the air flow stops finding the low point of the system. Now you have water back in the pipes where it will freeze and cause problems. The only way to winterize with compressed air is to bypass the water heater before blowing out the system. Drain the how water heater by removing the anode rod or drain plug and opening the pop-off safety valve.
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Granted. But I always remove the drain plug and drain the water heater before doing the air (I think, if I recall, the manual says to do it that way as well), in which case bypassing the water heater didn't seem that important.
__________________
2018 Coachmen Freedom Express 248 RBS
2014 Toyota Sequoia
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11-10-2017, 11:28 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 113
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No Anode Rod?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwritecode
What are you referring to as the "drain plug"? If it's a plastic plug on your WH, then you have an Atwood and don't have or need an anode rod.
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Yes, I have a plastic plug, and yes, the manual that came with it says it is an Atwood. But I was totally unaware that you didn't have or need an anode rod -- though I did wonder why there was no plug for removing it. Why does an Atwood not need an anode rod?
__________________
2018 Coachmen Freedom Express 248 RBS
2014 Toyota Sequoia
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11-10-2017, 11:38 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 113
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By the way, apologies for suddenly posting several messages. I've been away from internet access for some time and just got back. And I do appreciate the good thoughts people are sharing.
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2018 Coachmen Freedom Express 248 RBS
2014 Toyota Sequoia
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