Calcium deposits at toilet inlet screen

[Go Poly]

I have constant accumulation of calcium crystals at toilet filter screen. I have heard that there is an anode rod in the water heater that likely is degraded and is the likely reason for this.

So, if so, is this easily removed and replaced?

Thanks
Scott

[youroo]

Originally Posted by Go Poly

I have constant accumulation of calcium crystals at toilet filter screen. I have heard that there is an anode rod in the water heater that likely is degraded and is the likely reason for this.

So, if so, is this easily removed and replaced?

Thanks
Scott

The rod is easy to "Change"! Do not Remove it! Your W/H bypass valves must be turned wrong when you open your Low Point Drains in order to get hot water related problems to your Toilet! Youroo!!

[Flybob]

If you have a Suburban WH. Remove the anode rod and flush the water heater. Replace the rod. Avoid draining the water system with the WH full via the low point drains as this will draw crud from the bottom of the WH into the cold water line. When the system is charged again for normal operation, the crud will get pushed along to the Toilet or sink screens. See photo below for the anode life.

[RGrimm]

Originally Posted by Go Poly

I have constant accumulation of calcium crystals at toilet filter screen. I have heard that there is an anode rod in the water heater that likely is degraded and is the likely reason for this.

So, if so, is this easily removed and replaced?

Thanks
Scott

Take note of what Youroo said in post #2!

The calcium and degrading anode rod material is going to be in your hot water tank so it should not show up in your cold water side, such as the toilet water supply.

While you need to remove and inspect or replace the Anode rod yearly and flush out the HW tank, your plugged screen at the toilet indicates there is another problem.
-Russ

[Boomerweps]

How old is the RV? Anode.
Check your faucet screens, too.
I bought that Camco water heater cleaner. And after pulling the toilet to clean the inlet screen and faucet screens, I flushed out the water heater. I had postage stamp size debris fly out!

[dkvoelter]

My anode rod head uses a 1 1/16” socket

[Bama Rambler]

Just to reiterate what others have eluded to, The anode rod has nothing to do with calcium deposits at the toilet. The anode rod is only there to protect the hot water tank. And even then it doesn't remove anything from the water.

The only way to stop the deposits is to always use soft water.

[BobHanke]

Had a bit of that before. With city water and water pump off. Remove hose from valve mechanism with plastic grocery bag ready to catch water drips. With that bag in place use canned air to blow debris from the inlet. Looks great if pink antifreeze has colored the junk!

[jimmoore13]

Ditto on hot water not feeding the toilet. In fact, no settings on the winterization bypass will feed hot water to the toilet.

So, water quality is not an RV problem. What goes in via the city water connection or what is used to fill the freshwater tank is the source of your problem. It appears you frequent places with higher than normal levels of calcium and other minerals in the water.

Fortunately, there is a solution. There are garden hose filters for calcium. Do your research and choose one to add to your freshwater supply hose...whether at an RV park or at home filling the fresh tank from your own supply.
https://www.amazon.com/calcium-filte...or+garden+hose

Also bear in mind that MANY rural RV parks get their water from wells. Well water, in general, is "harder" (more minerals).

By the way, if you travel wet (full fresh tank) often, and if you get that water at home, you might look into a whole-house filtration system/water softener to cut down on calcium deposits at home. Then the water you use to fill your fresh tank will be pre-filtered and cause fewer problems with calcium deposits.

One more thing. You might get some spare screens so that you can swap out a clogged one for a clean one. Meanwhile, get some CLR or similar and soak the clogged screens to clean them up.

[Kcoulter]

Never open low point drains without the water heater bypassed...it will suck that crud back into your cold water lines and it can end up in your toilet or faucet filter screens.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by youroo

The rod is easy to "Change"! Do not Remove it! Your W/H bypass valves must be turned wrong when you open your Low Point Drains in order to get hot water related problems to your Toilet! Youroo!!

Originally Posted by Flybob

If you have a Suburban WH. Remove the anode rod and flush the water heater. Replace the rod. Avoid draining the water system with the WH full via the low point drains as this will draw crud from the bottom of the WH into the cold water line. When the system is charged again for normal operation, the crud will get pushed along to the Toilet or sink screens. See photo below for the anode life.

Originally Posted by Kcoulter

Never open low point drains without the water heater bypassed...it will suck that crud back into your cold water lines and it can end up in your toilet or faucet filter screens.

^^^Winners, winners, chicken dinners!^^^

While many seem to be scratching their heads about mineral deposits getting into the toilet screen from the water heater, that is EXACTLY what is happening.

When folks drain their water system, including the water heater from the low point drains after a trip, the deposits get sucked out of the water heater's mixing/dip tube and into the plumbing where much of it remains and then gets redistributed back into ALL the water lines (including the one feeding the toilet) on repressurization.

Bypassing the water heater as mentioned will keep this from happening. You should only ever drain your water heater from the anode port or drain plug.

Here is a photo showing the mixing/dip tube in a Suburban water heater and how close the bottom of the tank it resides.

[BobHanke]

If your inside or outside showers are turned off by the valve in the handle or the bypass valve was not closed after dewinterizing, you might be sharing hot and cold water everywhere which could also lead to not-so-hot showers.

[SailorSam20500]

If you are getting calcium in the toilet I agree it is probably back wash from the water heater. Heating hard water causes the crystal formation. Has nothing to do with the anode by itself. However, as noted, you should be checking your anode annually.
Since you ARE getting crystals in the rest of your trailer, it may be a good idea to do a serious cleaning of the WH. To do so:


1. Drain your water heater completely (open WH pressure valve then remove the anode)). Make sure the water heater has been off for a while to let the water cool down.
2. Replace anode.
3. Open the pressure relief valve on WH.

4. Following winterization procedures for your trailer (method for filling pipes with anti-freeze), suck 1/2 of your WH capacity of common white vinegar into your trailer, it will go directly into the WH.

5. Continue by sucking in clean water until water starts coming out the WH pressure relief valve. Stop adding water and close pressure valve.
6. Let sit over night. Or if you are in a hurry, turn on the WH and let it come to temp. Let sit for 2 hours.
7. Drain the WH by removing the anode, don't forget to relieve pressure by opening the pressure valve (calcium + vinegar = pressure!). {If you used the fast method, allow some time for water to cool or be ready for 140 degree water coming out).
8. At this point, it's a good idea to flush the WH using the commonly available WH flush wand.
9. Marvel at all the crud that comes out.
10. Close things up and go camping!


It's not a bad idea to do this every few years or as needed.



WH flush wand: https://parts.unitedrv.com/products/water-heater-flush-kit?variant=34725672193¤cy=USD&_vsrefdom=adwords&m sclkid=7018b3b4681014b8e08cd3da2bf809d5&utm_source =bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=**LP%20Shopping% 20-%20Catch%20All&utm_term=4583245501779595&utm_conte nt=Catch%20All

[Go Poly]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

Ditto on hot water not feeding the toilet. In fact, no settings on the winterization bypass will feed hot water to the toilet.

So, water quality is not an RV problem. What goes in via the city water connection or what is used to fill the freshwater tank is the source of your problem. It appears you frequent places with higher than normal levels of calcium and other minerals in the water.

Fortunately, there is a solution. There are garden hose filters for calcium. Do your research and choose one to add to your freshwater supply hose...whether at an RV park or at home filling the fresh tank from your own supply.
https://www.amazon.com/calcium-filte...or+garden+hose

Also bear in mind that MANY rural RV parks get their water from wells. Well water, in general, is "harder" (more minerals).

By the way, if you travel wet (full fresh tank) often, and if you get that water at home, you might look into a whole-house filtration system/water softener to cut down on calcium deposits at home. Then the water you use to fill your fresh tank will be pre-filtered and cause fewer problems with calcium deposits.

One more thing. You might get some spare screens so that you can swap out a clogged one for a clean one. Meanwhile, get some CLR or similar and soak the clogged screens to clean them up.

Thank you for your insight. Sounds like I have a few homework assignments. 😲

[Jim in Halifax]

Originally Posted by 5picker

^^^Winners, winners, chicken dinners!^^^

While many seem to be scratching their heads about mineral deposits getting into the toilet screen from the water heater, that is EXACTLY what is happening.

When folks drain their water system, including the water heater from the low point drains after a trip, the deposits get sucked out of the water heater's mixing/dip tube and into the plumbing where much of it remains and then gets redistributed back into ALL the water lines (including the one feeding the toilet) on repressurization.

Bypassing the water heater as mentioned will keep this from happening. You should only ever drain your water heater from the anode port or drain plug.

Here is a photo showing the mixing/dip tube in a Suburban water heater and how close the bottom of the tank it resides.

I agree to all of the above