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Old 01-24-2013, 01:54 PM   #21
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Hmm, my wife has complained about the rotten egg smell. I just blamed the dog.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:21 AM   #22
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OK...the anode erodes so the water tank won't...I get that.

I've seen the ads about a water heater conversion to electricity that you plug into the anode hole. The one I read about is a Hott Rod Water Heater and retails for around 100 bucks. If your using this electric conversion device are you hurting your tank?
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:40 AM   #23
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OK...the anode erodes so the water tank won't...I get that.

I've seen the ads about a water heater conversion to electricity that you plug into the anode hole. The one I read about is a Hott Rod Water Heater and retails for around 100 bucks. If your using this electric conversion device are you hurting your tank?
If you (Remove) the anode rod yes,you hurt it. Youroo!!
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:30 AM   #24
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The Original Hott Rod

This unit has a small (very small) anode as part of the heating unit.

1) At 100 bucks a pop, you would be replacing it every 2-3 years (depending on water acidity) Faster if more acid, slower if more base.

2) I doubt you would break even on propane saved by the time you needed to throw it away and replace the heater because the anode was used up. (unless propane got a LOT more expensive.

3) The electric heater is very small (450 watts). Recovery time would be longer than the standard 1000 watt element of a regular dual power (propane/electric) water heater. The Original Hott Rod

4) You would need to run BOTH the propane and the electric to get enough recovery time to take a long shower. Electric alone would not be sufficient to take a shower using more than 6 gallons (a full hot water tank) (or 10 if you have a 10 gallon heater).

5) Having to use both when showering means the biggest advantage of the unit is "no advantage" and you still need to replace it every few years as the anode is used up.

My review from just reading up on it is: "Forget it".
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:36 AM   #25
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unfortinatly I do not own a Ford so I had to do the next best thing - buy the socket

Good to know so if any one has a Ford Super Duty they can use the Lug Wrench to remove your anode rod

I discovered the same thing Pops did, but I don't think it's limited to Ford products. I used the lug wrench that came with another camper. I think any four-pronged lug wrench designed for passenger vehicles will probably work.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:40 AM   #26
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Maybe but the water didn't smell bad when we were camping so I'm
not entirely sure it's sulfur water that causes it.
It only smelled bad after it sat in the tank for a few weeks.
Never happened before or since.

My anode lasted 4 seasons and I replaced it this spring. My worry is
that the threads in the anode hole rust while the anode/drain plug is
out. I've switched from teflon tape to teflon pipe dope in hope that it
will coat the threads better to help cut back on the rust.
It's (the rust) not as bad when the plug is in there so that's why I don't drain mine
between uses.
Couldn't you just put the rod back in after draining (if it's still usable)? That's what I do, along with the teflon tape. I tighten it down as usual so I won't have any leaking the next time I hook up to water.
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Old 01-29-2013, 07:50 AM   #27
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Couldn't you just put the rod back in after draining (if it's still usable)? That's what I do, along with the teflon tape. I tighten it down as usual so I won't have any leaking the next time I hook up to water.


That's exactly what you're supposed to do. There is no need to leave the anode out, once the water heater is drained.
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:09 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by mjones12 View Post
Couldn't you just put the rod back in after draining (if it's still usable)? That's what I do, along with the teflon tape. I tighten it down as usual so I won't have any leaking the next time I hook up to water.
I always re-install my anode rod (it so far has not needed a new one in 3 years - maybe next year) after draining during the winterizing process.

1) It prevents the threads from rusting because the threads are sealed form the air.

2) It prevents the inside of the tank (around the fittings where there is no porcelain coating) from rusting and making the hot water "rusty" and stain the white plastic in the bath.

3) It keeps spiders, wasps, and other critters out of the open hole. (and who wants that stuff in your hot water lines?)
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Old 01-29-2013, 09:11 AM   #29
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I always re-install my anode rod (it so far has not needed a new one in 3 years - maybe next year) after draining during the winterizing process.
I do the same thing, mostly because I didn't want to lose or break it otherwise.
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