Your rig is designed to handle some cold temps. But 24 degrees F is COLD. And those overnight temps tend to endure for a few hours...from around 4 AM to a bit after sunrise.
Sadly, the exceptions to freeze-"safe" are:
1) Low point drains;
2) Fresh tank drain;
3) All dump drains.
Each of these hangs out in space unprotected, and they are typically capped by hard plastic fittings...e.g. the quarter-turn ball valves on the fresh tank drain and the low point drains (perhaps just screw caps?)...and thin wall PVC plumbing on the dumps.
And the dump drains are really vulnerable, because they stick out like a sore thumb.
On the dump drains, you can offer additional protection by starting with a gallon or so of RV antifreeze in the black and grey tanks after you dump. This antifreeze will naturally drop to the lowest point...up against the gate valves...and filling the dump pipes. Put enough in each tank to be sure the pipes are full...the black tank dump plumbing will hold a gallon or more all by itself...and any dilution that happens during travel or when filling the tanks with waste water will be minimal. Given the WX prediction calendar, be sure to add more RV antifreeze after each dump. If you have abundant shore power available, you might add a
heat blanket around the dumps.
But the potable plumbing vulnerable points are harder. If you have shore power overnight...when it's coldest...you can add any number of
heat pads below and around these valves. A
thin layer of insulation below the heat pad can be added to conserve energy and retain the heat better...tape it in place, because it's temporary.
Your furnace, tank heaters if you have them, opened cabinet doors, and so on can handle the rest. But you will quickly learn that your rig will struggle to stay warm at 24 degrees F...especially if there's wind. Your furnace will run a LOT, because your "extralight" rig is NOT an energy efficient design. So that cabinet door tip suggested by "timfromma" is very important. Plumbing up against outside walls...pretty much all the plumbing in the rig...is vulnerable to freezing without cabin heat penetrating the cabinets.
I've "winter" camped in a popup, but I don't think it got down into the mid 20s'. Our dogs' water bowl had a thin skim of ice on it in the morning, but 24 degrees F will freeze that solid. The pic is in March, high in the Rockies, a few years ago. We may have seen 29 or 30 degrees overnight...not 24.
P.S. Keep your hot water heater running, and it won't freeze. If you are moving from one site to another on a particularly cold day, you'd be wise to dump the fresh tank and low point drains and leave them open while you travel. Bypass the water heater...and leave it "hot" from running...it will be fine. If it's going to be REALLY cold on a travel day, consider using a pancake compressor to "air-winterize" for the trip. Why? Wind chill is not a "thing" for inanimate objects, but drafts will drive cold air into closed spaces that might otherwise be protected...like under that coroplast below the floor...and around any penetrations in the coroplast...such as at the fresh tank drain and the low point drains.
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