Dewinterizing when you can't do it at home

[MDK]

Hello! I'm a new RVer and am hoping for some suggestions as to where to dewinterize if it can't be done in one's driveway/at home. I'm in NW VA.
It seems like a kind of daunting process...

[JayArras]

Maybe explain what your concerns are? Are you worried about flushing the water system? Any place where you can attach a garden hose and fill the hot water tank should do it.

To de-winterize, you just need to flush the anti-freeze out of the system with fresh water. It can just go into your holding tank until you're someplace where you can dump it.

[Mr Towed]

Originally Posted by JayArras

Maybe explain what your concerns are? Are you worried about flushing the water system? Any place where you can attach a garden hose and fill the hot water tank should do it.

To de-winterize, you just need to flush the anti-freeze out of the system with fresh water. It can just go into your holding tank until you're someplace where you can dump it.

Exactly, if you just let it all drain to the tanks there won't be anything hitting the ground if that's what you are worried about.

[MT Biker]

RV anti-freeze is Non-toxic

[kenandterry]

Originally Posted by MDK

Hello! I'm a new RVer and am hoping for some suggestions as to where to dewinterize if it can't be done in one's driveway/at home. I'm in NW VA.
It seems like a kind of daunting process...

We all did it for the first time once. There’s nothing to it, but here’s a step by step.

https://www.coach-net.com/emails/con...eck%20List.pdf

[rockfossilman]

Originally Posted by MT Biker

RV anti-freeze is Non-toxic

Bit it will kill the grass in your lawn--I learned this the hard way🙄.

[upflying]

Originally Posted by MT Biker

RV anti-freeze is Non-toxic

Is it toxic to Fido or Felix?

[Mark Ulmer]

Originally Posted by MDK

Hello! I'm a new RVer and am hoping for some suggestions as to where to dewinterize if it can't be done in one's driveway/at home. I'm in NW VA.
It seems like a kind of daunting process...

I usually check in to a nearby campground with full hookups for 1 night. Don't really need to do that just to flush the antifreeze. (As others have pointed out, you can flush the anti-freeze into your holding tanks.) However I also sanitize the water system at the same time. That involves filling (and emptying) your freshwater tank twice (first time with bleach added). You really need the sewer hookup for that part. This is also a good opportunity to do a pre-season "shakedown" and make sure everything is working.

[kenandterry]

Originally Posted by Mark Ulmer

I usually check in to a nearby campground with full hookups for 1 night. Don't really need to do that just to flush the antifreeze. (As others have pointed out, you can flush the anti-freeze into your holding tanks.) However I also sanitize the water system at the same time. That involves filling (and emptying) your freshwater tank twice (first time with bleach added). You really need the sewer hookup for that part. This is also a good opportunity to do a pre-season "shakedown" and make sure everything is working.

Same here. We’re booked at a full services campground less than an hour away with 50amp service. I flush and empty all the tanks and system several times, turn on and run as many appliances and features as I can to “wake everybody” up from their winter nap. I’d rather know everything tests ok on a shake down camping weekend rather than the first one of the season that matters.

Then....... bring on camping season!!!

[Flybob]

Use an empty jug and open the Low point drains and a faucet and drain the antifreeze into the jug and take it to a local antifreeze recycling station. Odds are it is less than 3 gals.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Don't forget to "un-bypass" the water heater and replace the drain plug if it is out.

[jwfrede]

So far all the responses refer to putting anti-freeze in the system. I have been blowing the lines now for three winters. The first year I couldn't find any instructions in the manual and it didn't look like my trailer, an APEX 215rbk, had any bypass valves, so I tried blowing the lines. It takes a couple hours as I go through each line individually multiple times until there are no water droplets and no wet mist. I allow time between each blowdown to allow water to settle in the lines and in this way when it bridges the pipe the new air flow gets more of the water out in the form of small droplets. I also take out the anode and let the hot water heater drain with help of the airflow. I have an oil-less compressor and a 10 gal tank. I pressure the tank to about 80 psi and use the standard restrictor screwed into the water inlet line of the camper. The higher the pressure the higher the flowrate. The restrictor is designed to limit the pressure to the trailer to protect the onboard piping, possbily to less than 40 psi from a 100-150 psi source. The compressor can't keep up until the pressure drops to about 45 psi so the flowrate is probably about the compressor capicity at that point. The 80 psi gives a little extra burst of flow to get the droplets entrained. When completed I put the anitfreeze in all the traps. I just rewinterized after returning from Florida(next year I'll wait till the end of March). The next day I double checked and no droplets or mist so the lines are quite dry. I didn't check the hot water heater put it probably had a little water in the bottom that doesn't come out because the flow path is large and air velocity low, but a few drops of water here doesn't appear to hurt - no impact of volume change as the water freezes in the big volume.

[waybeck2018]

Originally Posted by MDK

Hello! I'm a new RVer and am hoping for some suggestions as to where to dewinterize if it can't be done in one's driveway/at home. I'm in NW VA.
It seems like a kind of daunting process...

Writer is probably like me. No RV allowed in sub-division. I, like others stated here go to a near by campground and do a system flush and a "pre-trip shakedown" testing all systems from TV/Radio to HW heater to AC, etc. Best way to have a warm fuzzy feeling about the upcoming season.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by upflying

Is it toxic to Fido or Felix?

NO...…..

[chuckt]

I'm in the same situation probably as MDK, that is in an HOA, can't store or bring RV or TT into neighborhood. TT located only 15 minutes away but inconveniently at a storage facility. I either take it to RV repair shop, another 30 minutes drive (and $250) for complete spring check-up or go on 1st camping out and hope everything still works. Another unfortunate piece is that I can't do roof climb anymore, seems like ladder climbing ain't what it use to be at age 67 and slight (?) weight gain.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by upflying

Is it toxic to Fido or Felix?

No, RV antifreeze is made different than automotive antifreeze. Everyone knows the cheapest type of RV antifreeze as whiskey or moonshine in its undiluted form. The more expensive kind is made from Propylene glycol which is a food additive. Most popular is made from a mixture of ethanol and propylene glycol. All three are mixed with food coloring and water during manufacturing. If your worried about killing the grass just flush the ground with water from the garden hose to dilute it.

ETHANOL (alcohol) BASED – most readily available at most hardware and discount stores and some RV shops. This type is the lowest cost. This product can taint rv plumbing systems resulting in bad taste and smell the following year and should be used only with quest or pex water lines. The alcohol will dry out rubber seals in faucets and toilets, so even though you may not need to replace any lines, there may still be leaks in the water system. It is also highly flammable and should not be used around pilot lights. It will have a warning on the label.

PROPYLENE/ETHANOL BLEND – Non-toxic and available in some RV shops. This is an alcohol blend and again the alcohol can taint the water system resulting in a bad taste and smell. This antifreeze can still dry out plumbing seals resulting in leaks. It is also flammable and should not be used around pilot lights. It will have a warning on the label.

PROPYLENE GLYCOL – It is non-toxic and the safest for all types of RV plumbing. This antifreeze is non-flammable and does not taint water systems. Propylene glycol is a lubricant and will actually work to extend the life of the seals in your toilets and faucets. It is available in -50 and -100 freeze burst protection.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by jwfrede

So far all the responses refer to putting anti-freeze in the system. I have been blowing the lines now for three winters. The first year I couldn't find any instructions in the manual and it didn't look like my trailer, an APEX 215rbk, had any bypass valves, so I tried blowing the lines. It takes a couple hours as I go through each line individually multiple times until there are no water droplets and no wet mist. I allow time between each blowdown to allow water to settle in the lines and in this way when it bridges the pipe the new air flow gets more of the water out in the form of small droplets. I also take out the anode and let the hot water heater drain with help of the airflow. I have an oil-less compressor and a 10 gal tank. I pressure the tank to about 80 psi and use the standard restrictor screwed into the water inlet line of the camper. The higher the pressure the higher the flowrate. The restrictor is designed to limit the pressure to the trailer to protect the onboard piping, possbily to less than 40 psi from a 100-150 psi source. The compressor can't keep up until the pressure drops to about 45 psi so the flowrate is probably about the compressor capicity at that point. The 80 psi gives a little extra burst of flow to get the droplets entrained. When completed I put the anitfreeze in all the traps. I just rewinterized after returning from Florida(next year I'll wait till the end of March). The next day I double checked and no droplets or mist so the lines are quite dry. I didn't check the hot water heater put it probably had a little water in the bottom that doesn't come out because the flow path is large and air velocity low, but a few drops of water here doesn't appear to hurt - no impact of volume change as the water freezes in the big volume.

The bypass valves are on the back side of the water heater, sometimes hidden behind a removable panel.

You only need to blow the water out one time through each faucet, toilet flush valve, the outside shower if you have one and the low point drains. What little water is left in the lines will not dilute the AF much.

Some people just pump the AF into the lines letting it push the water out but it does dilute the AF more.

[D W]

Originally Posted by chuckt

I'm in the same situation probably as MDK, that is in an HOA, can't store or bring RV or TT into neighborhood. TT located only 15 minutes away but inconveniently at a storage facility. I either take it to RV repair shop, another 30 minutes drive (and $250) for complete spring check-up or go on 1st camping out and hope everything still works. Another unfortunate piece is that I can't do roof climb anymore, seems like ladder climbing ain't what it use to be at age 67 and slight (?) weight gain.

Yippee for the HOA's. The modern day version of Soviet Union Communes. From each according to his ability to each according to his needs....

[jwfrede]

You have misunderstood. I do not put antifreeze in the lines, the water has been removed so no need. I only put antifreeze in the drains. So there is no dewinterizing, except to run some water with a little chlorine through the system.

[aceinspp]

Originally Posted by Flybob

Use an empty jug and open the Low point drains and a faucet and drain the antifreeze into the jug and take it to a local antifreeze recycling station. Odds are it is less than 3 gals.

X 2 Later RJD