Can someone tell me the technical description for the threaded nylon female fitting that connects to a Dometic toilet valve? Mine is leaking with a slow drip and I can't get it to stop.
I can't find a match at Home Depot, Lowe's or a well-supplied hardware store and need to order it online. I already have a replacement valve which I don't think I need to replace, but it didn't come with the female end with a straight barb that connects to the 1/2" braided vinyl supply line.
I found one at an ACE hardware store (5 years ago)when I needed one. The only difference was it was not plastic, it was metal. It worked just like the plastic one.
It's not the threaded connection that seals that to the toilet.
It is the cone washer inside that does the sealing.
If the cone washer is good, one only needs to tighten the plastic collar finger tight. (provided you haven't already split the plastic collar)
Teflon Tape WILL NOT fix your issue.
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It's not the threaded connection that seals that to the toilet.
It is the cone washer inside that does the sealing.
If the cone washer is good, one only needs to tighten the plastic collar finger tight. (provided you haven't already split the plastic collar)
Teflon Tape WILL NOT fix your issue.
It's more than finger tight but the collar is not split, nor does it appear that the end of the male threaded part on the toilet valve is damaged. So, if I replace the cone washer, it should seal? Perhaps that's more readily available at a hardware store? But that means I have to get the washer out, which may result in more damage than it has now (if any).
Those are called "barbed plumbing fittings." You should see what you want in one of these images. Should be able to find it at Lowes or Home Depot.
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Can someone tell me the technical description for the threaded nylon female fitting that connects to a Dometic toilet valve? Mine is leaking with a slow drip and I can't get it to stop.
I can't find a match at Home Depot, Lowe's or a well-supplied hardware store and need to order it online. I already have a replacement valve which I don't think I need to replace, but it didn't come with the female end with a straight barb that connects to the 1/2" braided vinyl supply line.
I believe that is a standard 3/4" FIP plumbing fitting. All of the big box stores carry them. One just needs to ask an associate in the plumbing department that knows more than "hot on the left, cold on the right, and poop won't run uphill". Some of them don't even know that!
I replaced all of ours with stainless steel braided lines. I recall them being described as 3/8" to 3/4" FIP lines.
With your installation, per the picture, that is a ridiculous installation with no room for anything to flex. Everything is darn near rigid. If anything moves, something is most likely to break.
Those fittings have a cone washer inside and only finger tight is required for a good seal. NO tape, NO plumbers dope, or anything else needed for a proper seal.
... With your installation, per the picture, that is a ridiculous installation with no room for anything to flex. Everything is darn near rigid. If anything moves, something is most likely to break. ...
That's what I had to work with when adding a kitchen sprayer for the toilet, which is quite useful. It's actually a bit more flexible than it looks because the hose going up is the braided hose for the sprayer and has little if any movement or pressure on it. The part through the wall has about a foot of the vinyl hose between it and the next connection, so there's a lot of buffer on it.
The rigidity you refer to is actually the cause of the leak, but only because I foolishly tried to reroute the sprayer hose. As I originally installed it, and how I put it back, it loops over the line that feeds the toilet bowl. That line can't move. My manipulations alone are what caused the very small leak but it had been in place for 4 years and about 20K miles before that without a leak.
My idea of rerouting it didn't really work, regardless of the leak. I put it back how it was originally (which makes it hang close to the wall) and the leak seems to have stopped on its own. Maybe the cone washer seated itself better with vibrations while driving? I still want to have another on hand in case it resumes.
Edit: added a larger picture of the whole thing. The towel is to absorb drips, which seem to have stopped.
I found cone washers at ACE hardware that fit. I thought I had a leaky valve, the cone washer was mangled! I'm original owner, so factory must have botched it.
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I also have a mangled cone washer but found that out by accident while looking for the screen filter. Almost no water coming out from the Dometic Model 310 water valve and saw no screen when I unscrewed the fitting. Can anyone let me know where to look or how to get the water flowing again? Otherwise it's buckets. Many thanks!
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I also have a mangled cone washer but found that out by accident while looking for the screen filter. Almost no water coming out from the Dometic Model 310 water valve and saw no screen when I unscrewed the fitting. Can anyone let me know where to look or how to get the water flowing again? Otherwise it's buckets. Many thanks!
If when you have the nut unthreaded from flush valve and water is turned on (hopefully by an assistant), does water come through? Then you know you have debris in your flush valve. May be able to pull it out and clean it, if not, they are cheap on Amazon. Lots of youtube videos showing how to remove and replace.
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2019 Rockwood Geo Pro G19FD w/off road package
2015 Ford F150 XLT Super Cab 4x4 V8 Yes, I drink the water!
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