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Old 02-15-2018, 09:22 PM   #1
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Draining hot water tank

I just bought a 2018 shamrock 233s. I've looked all over the bottom of the camper and can't find the valve to drain the hot water tank. Could anyone help me with this?
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:27 PM   #2
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I just bought a 2018 shamrock 233s. I've looked all over the bottom of the camper and can't find the valve to drain the hot water tank. Could anyone help me with this?
Yes... you'll have to open/remove the outside water heater door.

If you have a Suburban water heater, the "plug" will be metal and attached to a sacrificial anode rod. You have to unscrew it AFTER the water is cool and you have released the pressure.

If you have an Atwood water heater, the "plug" will be plastic. You have to unscrew it AFTER the water is cool and you have released the pressure.
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:29 PM   #3
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thank you very much for your quick reply. Still trying to get adjusted from a trailmanor to the shamrock
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:30 PM   #4
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I just bought a 2018 shamrock 233s. I've looked all over the bottom of the camper and can't find the valve to drain the hot water tank. Could anyone help me with this?
You have to remove the outside WH cover and remove the large plug at the bottom of the tank. Use a 6 point socket. Be very sure you have the 110-volt electric turned off. Reach up and flip open the Pressure Relief valve at the top of the tank. On some models, an anode rod is attached to the plug.
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:33 PM   #5
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You have to remove the outside WH cover and remove the large plug at the bottom of the tank. Use a 6 point socket. Be very sure you have the 110-volt electric turned off. Reach up and flip open the Pressure Relief valve at the top of the tank. On some models, an anode rod is attached to the plug.
Thanks! Glad I signed up for this forum.
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:35 PM   #6
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Is your water heater made by Suburban or Atwood?
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:49 PM   #7
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Water heater should be very similar if not identical to the Trailmanor.
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:52 AM   #8
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One more thing, what's the switch do on the hot water heater? Its located left of the anode rod.
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:53 AM   #9
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Heater yes, but the trailmanor had a valve beneath the camper to drain the hot water tank
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Old 02-16-2018, 08:02 AM   #10
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IF it's a black rocker switch- it turns the
120v AC heating rod ON/OFF in your water heater.
Shut off the switch now and don't turn it back on until you have refilled your hot water tank next season.
Failure to do this can result in nearly instant burn out of the heater rod.

Ask me how I know this....
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Old 02-16-2018, 08:09 AM   #11
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Water heater should be very similar if not identical to the Trailmanor.
My previous TrailManor 3023 had the exact same Suburban that my Flagstaff does.

To the OP, this FAQ thread may help you understand the operation of the electric heating element on your water heater:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html

Hope it helps, and welcome to FRF from another former TrailManor owner.
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Old 02-16-2018, 01:53 PM   #12
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1-1/16" socket needed.

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Yes... you'll have to open/remove the outside water heater door.

If you have a Suburban water heater, the "plug" will be metal and attached to a sacrificial anode rod. You have to unscrew it AFTER the water is cool and you have released the pressure.

If you have an Atwood water heater, the "plug" will be plastic. You have to unscrew it AFTER the water is cool and you have released the pressure.
Since no one else mentioned it, this is most easily done with a 1-1/16" socket and a short (4"-6") 1/2" drive extension and ratchet. A little tricky to find the socket but it's only $2.98 at Home Depot. I've never had a problem using a 12-point socket--the anode only needs to be tight enough to seal the plastic ring gasket. But if you insist on a 6-point socket, Home Depot has those too.

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Old 02-16-2018, 02:11 PM   #13
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Since no one else mentioned it, this is most easily done with a 1-1/16" socket and a short (4"-6") 1/2" drive extension and ratchet. A little tricky to find the socket but it's only $2.98 at Home Depot. I've never had a problem using a 12-point socket--the anode only needs to be tight enough to seal the plastic ring gasket. But if you insist on a 6-point socket, Home Depot has those too.

Larry
Usually never a problem using a 12 point socket on the metal, Suburban style plug/anode.

It's the plastic Atwood plugs that a 12 point chews up pretty easily and for those, a 6 point is a much better socket choice.
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:50 PM   #14
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The switch to the left of the anode rod is the switch to turn on and off AC operation of the WH. If you have an anode rod it is a Suburban WH. My Trailmanor had a Suburban water heater and the only way to drain it was to remove the anode rod or via low point system drains.
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Old 02-16-2018, 02:56 PM   #15
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I always remove the 3/4” plug from the bottom of the heater and replace it with a 3/4” X 1/4” reducer then put a 1/4” valve in the reducer. That way I can just open it to drain the tank. As per the anode Don’t use one as it is useless in my case I don’t heave water in tank but a few days in the year.
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Old 02-16-2018, 03:03 PM   #16
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It doesn't take long for damage to occur without an anode rod. If you want to see for yourself. Replace the anode rod and check it after 6mths to a year.
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Old 02-16-2018, 06:48 PM   #17
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I just bought a 2018 shamrock 233s. I've looked all over the bottom of the camper and can't find the valve to drain the hot water tank. Could anyone help me with this?
For some HW tanks the anode rod is the drain. Not a super efficient place for a drain but it gets most water out. Better if the van is leaning over a bit (jack up the other side). And YES, wait till the water cools down or you will get scalded.
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:33 PM   #18
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American-Standard comes that way

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I always remove the 3/4” plug from the bottom of the heater and replace it with a 3/4” X 1/4” reducer then put a 1/4” valve in the reducer. That way I can just open it to drain the tank. As per the anode Don’t use one as it is useless in my case I don’t heave water in tank but a few days in the year.
Our 2002 Nash came that way (or prior owner did that mod). The heater is neither a Suburban nor an Atwood, could be American-Standard A-SVDE6 or somesuch, manual is not at our fingertips. The major design difference between it and the Atwoods and Suburbans is that all the electrical stuff is on one end and all the propane stuff is at the other end.

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Old 02-17-2018, 01:32 PM   #19
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Our 2002 Nash came that way (or prior owner did that mod). The heater is neither a Suburban nor an Atwood, could be American-Standard A-SVDE6 or somesuch, manual is not at our fingertips. The major design difference between it and the Atwoods and Suburbans is that all the electrical stuff is on one end and all the propane stuff is at the other end.

Larry
Yeah and Atwood's are aluminum, no anode, and suburban are steel with anode plugs. Plugs size are different the 1 1/16 are the suburban. Not much similar except they fit in the same home and use electricity and propane. Lol
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