Easier Way to replace onboard water filter

[kkeefe523]

Hello Everyone- My husband and I purchased our first TT after years of camping in a popup. I must say- Quite a learning curve with all the new equipment and gear. After dewinterizing our Roo (after watching several YouTube videos), we discovered that we have an onboard water filter. Now the filter holder is filled with water and we did not put the filter in. Can we remove the water from the housing and then put the filter back in or do we just have to put a small container under the housing to catch the water. Also what is the valve for? Thanks for any help/shortcuts you can give us

[jbflag21ds]

if you can slip a small bowl/bucket under it, just unscrew it. obviously be sure to water pump is off and city water is off. if you really want to minimize spillage open low point drain and then open shower valve. that will let water that is ahead and above the filter housing drain some reducing that amount that backflows

[bearcat1]

The valve is probably your fresh water tank bypass

Anyone know where to get a tool to
“tighten” the water line clamps?

[jbflag21ds]

Originally Posted by bearcat1

The valve is probably your fresh water tank bypass

Anyone know where to get a tool to
“tighten” the water line clamps?

most hardware stores sell PEX crimpers. Not a huge fan of "reusing" the band to tighten them up though, but many have done so with success

[bearcat1]

Ok.. I have small leak and fitting is hard to get to. Was hoping to just tighten the crimped band

[5picker]

Originally Posted by bearcat1

The valve is probably your fresh water tank bypass

Anyone know where to get a tool to
“tighten” the water line clamps?

Originally Posted by bearcat1

Ok.. I have small leak and fitting is hard to get to. Was hoping to just tighten the crimped band

A pair of diagonal cutters (often referred to as side cutters) will sometimes tighten PEX cinch clamps like in the photo.

Or you can purchase a crimper and appropriate clamps such as this one from Apollo.

Apollo PEX 69PTBJ0010C 3/8-inch - 1-inch One Hand Cinch Clamp Tool

[bearcat1]

Thanks! Hadn’t thought of the side cutters.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by jbflag21ds

most hardware stores sell PEX crimpers. Not a huge fan of "reusing" the band to tighten them up though, but many have done so with success

A PEX crimp/cinch tool is design to only release when the crimp ring is fully seated. If that is the case with the leaking fitting, the crimp tool may not make it any tighter. Possibly, tile nippers may work.

A PEX crimp tool, crimp rings and a couple of fittings are handy to have. If the old ring doesn't tighten, you already have what is needed for the repair.

Crimp rings are very difficult to get started when in tight spaces. What I have done is to carefully get past the initial difficult resistance and then position it for crimp completion.

[tomkatb]

Hooking up your air compressor to the city water fill would allow you to use air to get the water out of there quickly. Use the outside shower to let the water out. easy.

It is easy to winterize this way.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by tomkatb

Hooking up your air compressor to the city water fill would allow you to use air to get the water out of there quickly. Use the outside shower to let the water out. easy.

It is easy to winterize this way.

This works but in lieu of a compressor, just set the water pump "source" valve to winterize. Run water from a faucet or two and the pump will merely suck air from the antifreeze port. This will push most water out of the canister and won't hurt the pump at all. Modern RV water pumps are "Run Dry" capable.

When I do this on my TT the canister only has about an inch or so of water left in it and not a drop spills. Reach in and push the filter element down and out of the mount so you don't have to try and clear the bottom of the filter as you remove the canister. Take them both at the same time.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by PenJoe

A PEX crimp/cinch tool is design to only release when the crimp ring is fully seated. If that is the case with the leaking fitting, the crimp tool may not make it any tighter. Possibly, tile nippers may work.

A PEX crimp tool, crimp rings and a couple of fittings are handy to have. If the old ring doesn't tighten, you already have what is needed for the repair.

Crimp rings are very difficult to get started when in tight spaces. What I have done is to carefully get past the initial difficult resistance and then position it for crimp completion.

I've found that PEX crimp rings are a little too stiff for regular "nippers" to do much. Jaws are often too wide to fit down where the clamping needs to take place and handles are too short for the leverage needed to crush the heavier/ stiffer metal.


Ratchet type PEX crimping tools are the way to go and well worth the price to have one in the toolbox (along with an assortment of rings.

[PenJoe]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

I've found that PEX crimp rings are a little too stiff for regular "nippers" to do much. Jaws are often too wide to fit down where the clamping needs to take place and handles are too short for the leverage needed to crush the heavier/ stiffer metal.


Ratchet type PEX crimping tools are the way to go and well worth the price to have one in the toolbox (along with an assortment of rings.

I mentioned nippers as a McGiver effort to tighten an already seated crimp ring. I have never tried it. And, you are correct, it takes a lot of effort even with a proper crimp tool.

[MCTroy]

Anyone know of a cap to put on this interior water filter to bypass it? I know you can cut tubing and reroute around it. Not crazy about trying that but would like to avoid spilling water when it leaks. Leaks when we cross thread it usually..

[5picker]

Originally Posted by MCTroy

Anyone know of a cap to put on this interior water filter to bypass it? I know you can cut tubing and reroute around it. Not crazy about trying that but would like to avoid spilling water when it leaks. Leaks when we cross thread it usually..

There have been several threads over the years about a plate that fits in the filter head that bypasses from having to use a filter element and keeps the bowl empty.

Unfortunately, everyone of those threads seemed to end in... "the plate didn't fit/seal well and leaked everywhere."

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by 5picker

There have been several threads over the years about a plate that fits in the filter head that bypasses from having to use a filter element and keeps the bowl empty.

Unfortunately, everyone of those threads seemed to end in... "the plate didn't fit/seal well and leaked everywhere."

The plate is only for the old style FR filter that has the ratchets on the side of the canister. Won't fit in the new "screw on" setup as the base has a couple of baffles sticking out below the sealing surfaces.

Learned this the hard way and luckily I had a nice thick, folded bath towel under it

[CGK]

A lot of us removed the interior water filters in favor of filters located outside the RV. Reduces that aspect of plumbing leaks, easier to access, easier to winterize, etc. etc. etc. I use the Clear2O pre-filter and filter, which together are superior to the FR filtration set-up. Others use a variety of different products. Happy camping!

[kkeefe523]

Thanks for the info. The underside of our TT is covered and I think the low point drain is under that, but I will turn on the shower.

[kkeefe523]

Thanks for this information. Will add this info to our bag of tricks!

[kkeefe523]

Thanks for the info about the valve. All information is good.

[Tundra 2014]

Many of us have removed the filter. This is to prevent leaking in an area that is not seen often. EX- slow leak that do damage. It takes 2 different size clamps because you have PEC and high pressure flex hose. If you keep filter, push up on canister to turn and check “O” ring-lube w/ food grade silicone. My fitting started leaking, I moved to the outside. The FR filter is a good one 5 micron VS Camco 20 micron-just expensive.