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Old 10-18-2013, 12:00 PM   #1
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Question Electric air pump for blowing out water lines?

I will be winterizing our Wildwood soon, and want to blow out all of the water lines, and use some anti freeze as well. I don't have an air compressor, but I do have a high volume air mattress pump made by Coleman. It plugs into AC power and puts out a lot of air. I think it would work to blow out the lines.

Any thoughts?
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:08 PM   #2
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Does it have a standard tire valve fitting on the hose end?
Does it pump max 30-40 psi?
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:15 PM   #3
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I don't think that will be sufficient. It's not likely to create more than about 5 pounds of pressure.
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Old 10-19-2013, 06:13 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by jrs_diesel View Post
I will be winterizing our Wildwood soon, and want to blow out all of the water lines, and use some anti freeze as well. I don't have an air compressor, but I do have a high volume air mattress pump made by Coleman. It plugs into AC power and puts out a lot of air. I think it would work to blow out the lines.

Any thoughts?
IMO, it should work fine if you can adapt the output to the city water inlet and can make an adapter for the water pump; both airtight as the pump's output pressure might be on the low side.

Rather than take a chance though, (since you are going to put antifreeze in it anyway), I suggest just buying a winterization kit and put the antifreeze through the water pump to begin with.

Don't forget to flush the toilet, burp the city water check valve, open the outside shower faucet, and run the "Pink" through the holding tank flush system if you have it.
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Old 10-19-2013, 07:34 AM   #5
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Herk, can you explain about burping the check valve? And what about the holding tanks. I don't want them to sit over winter dry so do I drain them and add antifreeze?
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:20 AM   #6
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Belt and suspenders? If you will be using antifreeze, blowing out the lines first isn't really very useful.

Joel
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:41 AM   #7
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Belt and suspenders? If you will be using antifreeze, blowing out the lines first isn't really very useful. Joel
I disagree. I blow the lines to remove as much water as possible then add antifreeze. Removing as much water as possible decreases the chance of diluted antifreeze.
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:46 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Great Horned Owl View Post
Belt and suspenders? If you will be using antifreeze, blowing out the lines first isn't really very useful.

Joel
Actually it is better to get the water out so you do not dilute the pink stuff, you will use less pink stuff too as you do not need to flush with it, just fill the pipes.
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:15 AM   #9
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Once you drain the tank and open the low point drains, most of the water is gone. Most of what is left gets pushed through the lines ahead of the antifreeze. The amount that the antifreeze will get diluted is negligible. Going through all that effort to save half a bottle of antifreeze hardly seems worth the trouble.

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Old 10-19-2013, 11:47 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Great Horned Owl View Post
Once you drain the tank and open the low point drains, moss of the water is gone. Most of what is left gets pushed through the lines ahead of the antifreeze. The amount that the antifreeze will get diluted is negligible. Going through all that effort to save half a bottle of antifreeze hardly seems worth the trouble.

Joel
I agree with Great Horned Owl, for $4 or $5 a jug and the time this takes.
I get a case and let it run. (I will pour a little extra in the P traps)
Then I will open ALL the taps and drain valves.

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Old 10-19-2013, 11:58 AM   #11
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I agree with Great Horned Owl, for $4 or $5 a jug and the time this takes.
I get a case and let it run. (I will pour a little extra in the P traps)
Then I will open ALL the taps and drain valves.

John
I bought two jugs at $ 4.89 each plus tax, that is 10 bucks and it took me 20 min in and out.
Not worth the effort to fire up the compressor.
I doubt that there is enough water in the lines to dilute the pink enough to worry about.
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:23 PM   #12
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Herk, can you explain about burping the check valve? And what about the holding tanks. I don't want them to sit over winter dry so do I drain them and add antifreeze?
The city water connection has a check valve that will not be cleared if you only use the water pump inlet to flush the antifreeze. Remove the screened washer and you will see the stem of the check valve. With "pink" in the lines, put your finger in the inlet and push the stem to the side. It will allow antifreeze to enter the check valve. It will "burp" clear water and pink will follow.

The holding tank flush unit has a vacuum break (check valve) located above the tanks and the outside hose connection. When you remove the hose, water from the vacuum break down to the hose connection will back drain onto your shoes. You may have noticed that before (no worries it is clean water from the tap).

The water from the vacuum break to the tank "SHOULD" drain into the tank through the flush nozzle in the tank. However, water CAN remain inside the plastic nozzle or remain inside the plastic vacuum break. Obviously that would be bad.

I can reach the flush inlet with the hose from my outside faucet and, using an A-663 brass fitting, flush my shower faucet and the turboflush at the same time.
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Old 10-19-2013, 01:06 PM   #13
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It starts to become worth it, when the lines in your rig hold almost 4 gallons, as mine does. And when you have 8 faucets and 2 toilets, there are plenty of spaces that will hold water.
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:18 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herk7769 View Post

The city water connection has a check valve that will not be cleared if you only use the water pump inlet to flush the antifreeze. Remove the screened washer and you will see the stem of the check valve. With "pink" in the lines, put your finger in the inlet and push the stem to the side. It will allow antifreeze to enter the check valve. It will "burp" clear water and pink will follow.

The holding tank flush unit has a vacuum break (check valve) located above the tanks and the outside hose connection. When you remove the hose, water from the vacuum break down to the hose connection will back drain onto your shoes. You may have noticed that before (no worries it is clean water from the tap).

The water from the vacuum break to the tank "SHOULD" drain into the tank through the flush nozzle in the tank. However, water CAN remain inside the plastic nozzle or remain inside the plastic vacuum break. Obviously that would be bad.

I can reach the flush inlet with the hose from my outside faucet and, using an A-663 brass fitting, flush my shower faucet and the turboflush at the same time.
Thanks for the advice. Didn't know about winterizing the check valve.
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:01 PM   #15
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. With "pink" in the lines, put your finger in the inlet and push the stem to the side. It will allow antifreeze to enter the check valve. It will "burp" clear water and pink will follow.

Cautionary note - when you push the stem to the side, stand to one side and make sure you have your mouth closed. I didn't and got a pretty good spraying. RV antifreeze doesn't taste very good at all and the taste does last for a long time in your mouth. 😊
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