Electric water heater issue

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by Lawduck

Okay, so I got out to the RV briefly, long enough to take some additional pix. As you'll see, I don't seem to have a distribution box on the left side of the stairwell.

However, I noticed a panel beneath the refrigerator. Could this be that? (Also, I've added an actual pic of my hot water heater, which is basically the same as the one I uploaded earlier, but this one is actually mine.)

You think the box is this under-fridge panel? (I might get out there on Sunday to unscrew and peek further.)

Hmmm, the FR service schematic that is posted in a sticky at the top of this section also indicated the PDB was there but your photo sez nay nay. It would not be behind a screw in panel. It has its own cover. I see you found the BCC on the left. The panel access below your fridge is most likely for your furnace. When you locate the breaker and cycle it, if that does not solve the problem then you will need to check the element as jughrad suggested. You photo confirms that you have the Atwood design WH so the element is on the back. Most likely under the cooktop cabinet. This is what the PD Box looks like:

[kenandterry]

Lawduck……

From your own series of photos…

I believe your Power Distribution Box is right here in the lower right corner of photo #1.

Mine is located above my refrigerator top left.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by kenandterry

Lawduck……

From your own series of photos…

I believe your Power Distribution Box is right here in the lower right corner of photo #1.

Mine is located above my refrigerator top left.

I think your right. Good eye for an old guy!

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Lawduck

Greetings!

We have a 2021 Sunseeker 3050, with dual electric/gas water heating system.

Originally Posted by Duckogram

You photo confirms that you have the Atwood design WH so the element is on the back.

Not sure of the exact date of the change, but the September 2021 (and March 2021) user manuals for Dometic have the element now located on the front of the water heater......so it's possible future members reading this might could have it on the front depending on when Dometic made this design change.

See diagram below taken from the user manual

[kenandterry]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

I think your right. Good eye for an old guy!

I learned from the best.

[Rhumblefish]

Originally Posted by Lawduck

As you'll see, I don't seem to have a distribution box on the left side of the stairwell.

Revenge of the Ultracrepidarians!

Glad it all came together. Love ths board!

[Lighting546]

Originally Posted by Lawduck

Okay, so I got out to the RV briefly, long enough to take some additional pix. As you'll see, I don't seem to have a distribution box on the left side of the stairwell.

However, I noticed a panel beneath the refrigerator. Could this be that? (Also, I've added an actual pic of my hot water heater, which is basically the same as the one I uploaded earlier, but this one is actually mine.)

You think the box is this under-fridge panel? (I might get out there on Sunday to unscrew and peek further.)

The box/panel under your fridge should be the 110v to 12v converter, 12v fuse panel and the 110v circuit breaker panel. There should be a circuit breaker for the water heaters 110v element in it, if it’s in the off position that will explain why the electric element isn’t working, if it’s in the on position the element is probably fried and will require replacement.

[dedobias]

Some have the element on the backside. His photo doesn't show a cover on the lower right front side. Check the back.

[Scullygj]

The thermal cutoff shown in your pic should be this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have a 2022 Sunseeker 2860 with the Dometic water heater that uses this. I was advised by my dealer that they sometimes go bad so I ordered one to have on hand just in case.
Gary

[FirstFiver]

I'm with the dried and fried element crowd.
It happened to me.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by Rhumblefish

Revenge of the Ultracrepidarians!

Glad it all came together. Love ths board!

With all frivolity aside, the subject is an inop electric side of an Atwood design water heater. In order to determine why it is not working there are things that must be checked. The 120v circuit breaker is the easiest and first logical item on the path to discovery. Unfortunately the OP does not know where the PD Box is located. Since I do not have that model and there was a major change when the 12v fridge was added, I did not assume the box was still in the stepwell. That is why I said “ Your Distribution box should be on the left side of the entrance…”

Also noteworthy is the OP has not solved the issue yet. So we will continue to try to help him. When we do, your congratulatory toast would certainly be appropriate.

[Draytondave]

Originally Posted by jughrad

This is a likely issue. Just heating the element without water won't immediately damage the element but if you had it on then added cold water....... crack!

An ohmmeter across the element terminals should answer that question. A good element will have a resistance between 5 and 25 Ohms.

Sorry but anytime you turn the power on to a hot water heating element without water you will burn out the element. Its pretty much an instant thing.

[Iwritecode]

Originally Posted by Draytondave

Sorry but anytime you turn the power on to a hot water heating element without water you will burn out the element. Its pretty much an instant thing.

Its not so instantaneous as it was before. Suburban has been utilizing a new element that can take being energized while dry for a bit with no harm. See post #6 at this link for an email from Suburban manufacturing on this element.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post1661524

[FirstFiver]

Originally Posted by Draytondave

Sorry but anytime you turn the power on to a hot water heating element without water you will burn out the element. Its pretty much an instant thing.

Exactly...Instantly! And the breaker will trip.
Want to know how I know?

[tmkwasinski]

I have a similar issue. My breaker keeps tripping. Any thoughts?

[FirstFiver]

Sounds like your element is shorted

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by tmkwasinski

I have a similar issue. My breaker keeps tripping. Any thoughts?

Unhook one wire from the heating element and make sure it cannot touch anything. Turn on the electric side. If the circuit breaker does not trip, the heating element is bad and needs replaced (assuming cold water in the water heater).

Make sure to turn electric off again before doing anything more with the wire.

[Lawduck]

Update: SOLVED!

Thank you to all who weighed in, but especially to KenandTerry, whose eagle eye noticed where my power distribution center was located. That was not covered during our walk thru, which is disappointing to say the least.

In any event, basically the circuit breaker was tripped. I reset it, and, voila, hot water.

For the sake of others who may stumble across this thread, I'm adding a couple pix to reflect what was where.

Also, I'll be taking the advice of others re having back-up parts for the water heater, although I have no clue where the rod-thingy would be found. (There's no "back side" access to the system that I can find, but I'll keep looki g for that.)

So, again, thank you and I look forward to using this forum more in the future. Y'all are awesome!

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by Lawduck

Update: SOLVED!

Thank you to all who weighed in, but especially to KenandTerry, whose eagle eye noticed where my power distribution center was located.

Also, I'll be taking the advice of others re having back-up parts for the water heater, although I have no clue where the rod-thingy would be found. (There's no "back side" access to the system that I can find, but I'll keep looki g for that.)

So, again, thank you and I look forward to using this forum more in the future. Y'all are awesome!

Glad you are back in business.

You will need to find the “back side” of the water heater sooner rather than later. It is where your water heater bypass valves are located. You should have a 3 each 1/4 turn valve system. There is a sticky covering how and when to use it.
Pull the bottom drawer next to your cooktop/microwave cabinet and you should be able to see it. (That should have been in your PDI inspection as well)

The “rod thingy” (if you mean anode rod) is not used in an Atwood designed or Dometic redesigned water heater.

The only water heater back up part I carry is the thermal cut off kit.

Just a suggestion: There is a Forester/Sunseeker specific section where you are much more likely to get model specific responses from experienced owners.