I have an 2017 Forest River Surveyor 243RBS and it is hooked up to campground water. It stays there all year. Why would my water tank fill up without using the water pump? I emptied it and it still has water dripping from the drain a week later.
Sounds like the check valve in your water pump went bad.
You don't need to replace the water pump, however.
You can buy a brass check valve at Camping World or other RV parts store and put it in line to stop the city water from flowing back through the pump and into the fresh water tank.
Take less than five minutes and basically no tools to fix.
This topic surfaces every so often. Although the solution has merit, the posts do not clarify the where and justification for that position. So I asked for that info and received no response to date.
The positions are quantified in the poll. http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ml#post1947559
Try this:
Shut off city water outside.
Open any faucet inside and let it run until the water stops.
Leave faucet open.
Turn on water pump and let it run for 30 sec.
Close faucet.
turn off water pump.
Reconnect the city water.
If the water pump gets turned on when connected to city water, it can cause the backflow valve to seat improperly. The above reseats it.
Inside the valve assembly in the water pump head is a rubber check valve that allows water to pass when the pump is running, but close when the city water pressure is higher than the pump pressure (zero when its off). This prevents the motor from spinning backwards and filling the fresh water tank.
Sometimes crud from the fresh tank will get trapped under the rubber flapper allowing water to slip under the valve and fill the fresh tank.
Sometimes, running the pump will flush that crud into the cold water pipes clearing the obstruction.
On older pumps, the rubber valve can deteriorate and leak. In this case, rebuilding the pump or replacing it will be your choices.
For the thrifty, you can just add a one way check valve between the pump outlet and the camper's water pipes. Make sure the arrow on the valve points away from the pump!
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Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
Inside the valve assembly in the water pump head is a rubber check valve that allows water to pass when the pump is running, but close when the city water pressure is higher than the pump pressure (zero when its off). This prevents the motor from spinning backwards and filling the fresh water tank.
Sometimes crud from the fresh tank will get trapped under the rubber flapper allowing water to slip under the valve and fill the fresh tank.
Sometimes, running the pump will flush that crud into the cold water pipes clearing the obstruction.
On older pumps, the rubber valve can deteriorate and leak. In this case, rebuilding the pump or replacing it will be your choices.
For the thrifty, you can just add a one way check valve between the pump outlet and the camper's water pipes. Make sure the arrow on the valve points away from the pump!
Seems to me that if the pump has a hard bypass issue the check valve should be installed between the tank and the pump (arrow towards pump) so if the pump is used it won't cycle uselessly.
Try this:
Shut off city water outside.
Open any faucet inside and let it run until the water stops.
Leave faucet open.
Turn on water pump and let it run for 30 sec.
Close faucet.
turn off water pump.
Reconnect the city water.
If the water pump gets turned on when connected to city water, it can cause the backflow valve to seat improperly. The above reseats it.
I've had water overflow my fresh water tank twice on two different RV's. Performed the above in both cases and worked both times. Sure was easier than going out and buying and installing new parts.
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Heartland Big Country 3150RL
2013 Ford SD F250 4x4 SC; 6.2
Reese 18K Elite w/slider - Rockford, Michigan
I've had water overflow my fresh water tank twice on two different RV's. Performed the above in both cases and worked both times. Sure was easier than going out and buying and installing new parts.
That is exactly the reason I suggested just putting a separate check valve instead of fixing the pump or replacing the pump.
Much easier to do and most likely a one time fix.
If putting a new check valve in the pump, chances are you'll be in there again in a year or two doing it all over again.
I've had three RV's in my life and have a bit of experience but I read this forum all the time and learn something every day. Great information John and Herk7769. Thanks.
Rusty
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2019 Riverstone Legacy 38MB
Full Paint Merlot/All Options
2015 Black Ford Platinum Diesel F-350 Dually
Seems to me that if the pump has a hard bypass issue the check valve should be installed between the tank and the pump (arrow towards pump) so if the pump is used it won't cycle uselessly.
Why would the check valve on the pressure side of the pump cause the pump to cycle?
Why would the check valve on the pressure side of the pump cause the pump to cycle?
Because the check valve on the output side would still allow the pressure (between the pump and the check valve) to back feed through the pump, turning it on to build back up the pressure whereas with the check valve on the pump input side even with a bad pump internal check valve there would be pressure through the pump back to the inline check valve. The pump will not sense low pressure and will only cycle when there is actual pressure drop from usage. Of course this is only when using the pump and need only be done if the pump check valve is a hard failure and one doesn't want to buy a new pump or repair kit.
Because the check valve on the output side would still allow the pressure (between the pump and the check valve) to back feed through the pump, turning it on to build back up the pressure whereas with the check valve on the pump input side even with a bad pump internal check valve there would be pressure through the pump back to the inline check valve. The pump will not sense low pressure and will only cycle when there is actual pressure drop from usage. Of course this is only when using the pump and need only be done if the pump check valve is a hard failure and one doesn't want to buy a new pump or repair kit.
My concern with putting the check valve on the suction side of the pump is subjecting the suction/strainer and internal pump parts on the fresh tank side inside the pump, to city water pressures. That side of the pump, the plumbing and the suction/strainer are designed for low pressure suction.
Will it hurt anything?... maybe... maybe not.
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Thanks all for this thread. I just got back from a 4,000 mile trip and even checking park water pressure with a gauge and using a regulator my tank overflowed regularly when hooked up to city water.
Will be adding a check valve as my next project. As for the internal check valve getting fouled by crud in the inlet, my pump has a "strainer" on the inlet that does a pretty good job of keeping stuff out. I just don't think the internal rubber flapper is stout enough for the job.
Funny that Sureflo would offer an external check valve for their pumps. They probably know there's an inherent problem with the internal.
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"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change)
I don't think there is any real reason why the external check valve has to be on one side of the pump or the other.
Before I did this I tried to rationalize why the check valve might need to be on one side of the pump or the other and just couldn't find a reason.
If someone has some actual fact on this and not conjecture, I would be interested in hearing it.
I found that it was a much easier install of the check valve on the water-in side of the pump to just unhook the pipe with my fingers...screw the check valve on tight with my fingers...then reattach the water pipe with my fingers (although I did put a new screen/strainer on it at the same time...with my fingers and no tools)...all in less than five minutes and by standing on the ground and just reaching in with my arms to do it.
Then it would have been to move almost everything from the 5'vers basement to the ground outside...then a whole body crawl into the basement of my 5'ver with a bunch of tools to remove both sides of the plumbing from the pump...then remove the pump...crawl out of the basement to attach the check valve to the other side of the pump (one or two adapters needed)...then crawl back into the basement and reinstall the pump and associated plumbing...then reloading the basement with all of my stuff (by the way, I was full-timing then so had a full basement).
It has been six months since I did this fix and has been working flawlessly to date.
I don't think there is any real reason why the external check valve has to be on one side of the pump or the other.
Before I did this I tried to rationalize why the check valve might need to be on one side of the pump or the other and just couldn't find a reason.
If someone has some actual fact on this and not conjecture, I would be interested in hearing it.
If the check valve opens with little effort when the pump is "sucking" and does't restrict water flow at the low pressure on the suction side then I can't see any downside.
I do know that ANY pump does not likes to be starved for fluid on the suction side. If that's not happening then I too would vote for the position that makes for the easiest install. I myself have looked at inline brass check valves that would merely fit in the feed line from the water tank. Since my water pump is easily accessed in my TT I think I'll just go with one on the discharge side.
As long as the reverse water flow is stopped and the pump is fed plenty of water I see no downside.
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"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change)
In reading this thread I am realizing I haven’t the slightest idea where the switch to the water pump is, nor do I know if city water has been filling the fresh water tank. I have used this FR Cruise-Lite for over a year have only hooked it to the CG water supply, not needing to fill the fresh water tank. My questions are where is the water pump switch and where is the fresh water tank!!?? I feel foolish asking this because I am sure my unit has both, based on the fact that there’s a filler on the outside labeled “fresh water.” Additionally where is the “drain” to the fresh water tank? Should I be checking it to see if there is water in the tank? WOW-amazing how little I know about my TT!
In reading this thread I am realizing I haven’t the slightest idea where the switch to the water pump is, nor do I know if city water has been filling the fresh water tank. I have used this FR Cruise-Lite for over a year have only hooked it to the CG water supply, not needing to fill the fresh water tank. My questions are where is the water pump switch and where is the fresh water tank!!?? I feel foolish asking this because I am sure my unit has both, based on the fact that there’s a filler on the outside labeled “fresh water.” Additionally where is the “drain” to the fresh water tank? Should I be checking it to see if there is water in the tank? WOW-amazing how little I know about my TT!
Hard to say where the water pump is located...in my previous TT I searched for hours before I finally found it under a slightly hidden panel under the sofa bed.
The pump switch is probably on the panel where the slider, awning, water heater and furnace switches are...should be labeled 'PUMP'.
As for the fresh tank drain, you'll find it under the trailer probably on the off-door side (drivers side) around and behind the tires...should be one tube with a valve on it.
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